HipMF
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Posts posted by HipMF
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I did a 48(!) mile mini-adventure over to DeForest this morning to explore the fancy-pants bike path they have over there. The battery was still hanging on when I got back, but I'm pretty sure it was just about done. I'm obviously pedaling a fair amount, but my legs feel a lot fresher than they would if I tried something like that on my mountain bike.
I've racked up about 270 miles on this thing over the past couple weeks. Mostly going to work and shopping trips, but a couple joy rides obviously. The small wheels make the bike really agile and nimble, but the ride quality definitely suffers. I tend to cruise at around 12 mph, and only really put the hammer down when there nice smooth pavement.
Overall, I really like this thing. It's been a lot of fun to cruise around on and suits my needs really well. I did have some quality issues out-of-the-box though. UPS had obviously had their way with it. The battery was just laying loose in the bottom of the box. On my 2nd ride, I had it pop off of the bike and go skidding across the asphalt. The source of the problem turned out to be some loose hardware in the battery holder. That's fixed, but I still have a few wraps of electrical tape on there as cheap insurance. Looks a bit janky. There's also a tolerance issue between the front sprocket and crank spider which made getting the chain tension dialed in pretty difficult. Nothing too major IMO, but it would be nice not to have to deal with these kind of things on a brand new bike. I've heard that Propella's customer service is good, so I could probably go back to them, but so far I haven't bothered.
- Jdesign, REKIII, straight6pwr and 1 other
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I haven't run it dead yet, but it should be about 25 miles. Range depends a lot on how much effort you put in to pedaling and how fast you want to go. My longest round trip so far was 20 miles and the battery indicator was still at 80% (skeptical of that...), but I was putt-putting along at 12ish mph. Top speed on the motor is 16-18 mph.
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Yeah. Not something I've tried before. This was the only other one out of 20-something that was I even close to nailing.
The Le Man's prototype about to devour some actually vintage 2-liter cars is amusing to me.
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Wasn't really feeling it today, but still managed to get a couple decent photos. I was surprised by how hard it is to get those panning shots.
- Jdesign and KaiserRolls
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On 5/19/2022 at 11:17 AM, KaiserRolls said:
Dyno tunes have their place for sure. Street tuning and dialing in drivability is awesome though
I`ve spent a fair amount of time and brake pads getting the fuel dialed. I suspect the heat issue is due to inadequate timing, but you really need a dyno to tune the timing at lower loads. Also (aside from the PCV...) need to get a weaker wastegate spring and wire/plumb some boost control, but this thread is supposed to be about why Earl hasn't touched his project, not about mine...
#vintage2023
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Buying a car out-of-state... Any advice?
I've been casually looking for a 1st gen (2003-2012) Chevy Colorado/GMC Canyon for a while now. The world being what it is, prices are all over the place. The trucks I've seen are either $2-4k rust buckets, or decent condition, but $12K. Hardly any middle ground to be found. Maybe it's me, but I can't bring myself to pay 5 digits for a decade-or-two old, base model rust belt vehicle. How does one go about buying a vehicle out-of-state? Is it even worth the hassle for something in the $6-10k range?
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On 5/11/2022 at 9:35 AM, GunMetalGrey said:
I know it goes against your core beliefs, but finding someone to dyno tune it is a really good thing in life. Then it runs / drives with a higher level of reliability and you can tweak from there knowing your starting point is strong.
I have considered that. Last time I took it for a long drive (highway miles) in hot weather, it was on the verge of overheating. Not sure if that means the 318is radiator is inadequate, or if it's tune related. Regardless, at a minimum I would need to get the PCV situation figured out before I would feel like I could put it on a dyno without it being an embarrassment.
But yeah, there's also that issue of trusting other people enough to let them touch my stuff and violating my DIY ethic... Besides that, there are high-level artistic reasons for letting it stall. The progress on the car is meant to parallel my progress in life, but the car has gotten a bit ahead of me. There's work I need to do in other areas before I can really focus on the car again.
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Knew I recognized that baseline...
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This wasn't on my radar, but I have a camera and and am willing to travel if y'all want to gofundme, lol. Otherwise, I was planning to be at RA that weekend.
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Agreed. Odd. Makes sense, but also makes no sense. It's absurd; not in a Baldessari way, but in a way that your average car guy can understand. Big 'A' art for the little guy (given the fact that the world we live in is absurd and this is merely a reflection of it)?
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Throwback to shop v1. I feel like Real Estate has edged their way into th mainstream since then, which helps me validate my hipster status.
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The reach has also helped me identify a bunch of neat birds that I've seen this spring; wood duck, blue wing teal, saw an osprey grab a fish out of devils lake, northern flicker, and these tree swallows:
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Been getting some mileage out of this crappy old pen-f telephoto zoom lens.
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On 4/15/2022 at 10:35 AM, GunMetalGrey said:
Correct
You want the lowest amount of spring force required to match the speed of the cam, as anything above is just added friction and wear.
When you over rev the spring force is not great enough to accelerate the valve fast enough to follow the cam and you get valve float, which can in turn cause the valve to contact the piston if the discrepancy is high enough.
I did supertech springs in my S52 head and the spring force change becomes VERY noticeable when you try to get the cams back in...Correct. Only thing that I would add is that the actual contact between valve and piston occurs due the valve bouncing off the seat. The cam profile is designed to decelerate the valve so that it gets placed "gently" onto the seat. When the valves "float", by the time the valve comes into contact with the seat, the cam has already rotated past the gentle decel part of the profile, and the valve slams hard into the seat and bounces back off, potentially multiple times, before the piston comes up and hits it.
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The importance of physical media?
Threw Spotify a curveball today and it sent it right back at me. Listened to this album a bunch ~10 years ago and promptly forgot about it...
- Jdesign and patsbimmer1
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Over-reving resulting in non-catastrophic bottom end failure seems unlikely. Putting my $0.02 on bent valve(s).
- KaiserRolls and Rekpoint
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BIKES!
in General Off-Topic
Posted
Saving this here so I can find it later.
https://bike.bikegremlin.com/1985/bicycle-bearing-grease-explained/