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patsbimmer1

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Posts posted by patsbimmer1

  1. 1 hour ago, YoungCR said:

    I was too! I forgot to mention that I scheduled this on a Thursday morning and they didn’t get the inspection done until Monday and then it was Tuesday afternoon when I got the published report. They advertise as trying to do inspections next day and given it was the NYC I’m sure they are busy all the time but the reports don’t get processed until the start of the next business day after the inspection is done.

    I'm also not clear on if a ASE tech actually looks at the car or just reviews the report but still very happy with the service. Photos like that were worth the price and peace of mind. 

    How much was the service?

  2. I absolutely love this car!  Factory mint paint AND it's a euro spec s50b32!  It's so 90's and I love it.  I think they fucked up by putting out a "coming soon..." craigslist ad advertising it for $96k though.  The auction has a reserve and I won't be surprised if it doesn't hit that reserve.  The story they're telling is neat about finding the car, storing it, etc.

    https://www.pcarmarket.com/auction/euro-spec-1996-bmw-m3-mint-green/

    1996 BMW E36 M3 Individual Euro-Spec

  3. Doing the BE bearings with the ARP install hardware is by far the best move. That peace of mind of worth the money. Best money I spent on my car.  They’re the most popular choice out there (when they’re available). I haven’t seen a single failure on the forums when they’ve been installed. 

  4. My sister in law is selling her 2006 325xi for $3500.  She's the 3rd owner but the car has been in the family it's whole life.  My aunt bought it new then my fil owned it for a little bit before my sil bought it.  She's maintained it very well but jumped into a Volvo XC60 recently so this needs to go.  It'd be a great daily or winter car!  I'll answer any questions I can for you guys!

    https://racine.craigslist.org/cto/d/kansasville-2006-bmw-325xi/7425981550.html

  5. 16 hours ago, pynacl said:

    Just so you know our take on the situation... We have never put adjustable end links on any of our track cars(specifically our E90 M3 track car). If your car is set to the appropriate ride height (equal on the left and right side) there is no need for adjustable end links. The only time you will put 'pre-load' on the sway bar is when the left and right ride heights are not set equal (and there is no reason they should be unequal).

    If that's what they say then I'd go with that!  I know when KW sent me my coilovers they came with a new set of shorter sway bar end links to avoid the pre-loading and I know others that do it as well.  I'm sure it's like everything else handling related where it's heavily opinion based on independent results.  If it works it works!

  6. 22 hours ago, pynacl said:

    Got the new shocks from TCK already! Time to swap the GC camber plates on and get these installed. Still not sure if the factory end links will fit. If not, maybe that'll be an excuse to replace them and upgrade front sway bars too.

    newStruts.jpg

    I'd suggest going with a shortened or adjustable sway bar link.  The stock ones are made for the stock height.  You're going to change the pre-load on the sway bar and could impact your handling if you stick with the stock sway bar links and lowered height.

  7. 1 hour ago, Partiallypurple said:

    @patsbimmer1Honestly no idea, not enough. Just pretty much a stock JZX110. With the turbo and E85 I should be able to make a decent amount more than that, I just dont see that necessary at the moment, but it will be nice to have the option to turn it up if I want. Sound Performance will be tuning the car and they are gonna put a boost "knob" in the car

    Sound Performance does a great job!

  8. 17 minutes ago, pynacl said:

    New fear unlocked right before I do my suspension overhaul. Did the bolt head snap off while hitting it with an impact? That really sucks, but hopefully the shock isn't threaded so it could just slip off and you only have to buy one new thing :(

    My air impact wouldn't budge it so I switched to my ratchet and that's when I snapped it off after quite a bit of movement.  The only threaded part was in the control arm so cutting the shock bolt off allowed me to just drop the shock out.

     

  9. The coilover install had a slight hiccup preventing me from finishing it a couple weeks ago but it was unrelated to the coilovers themselves.  My passenger rear lower shock bolt snapped off which meant I needed to pull the arm to try cut out the shock and remove the bolt.  Spoiler alert, I could not get the bolt out.  It's an aluminum CA and a steel bolt that I'm guessing is stainless or has some coating to prevent galvanic corrosion.  I tried soaking it in PB, heat, heat plus wax, drilling, using an extractor kit and swearing at it with no luck.  I ended up ordering another control arm from ebay before I left for SEMA and got it all put together this weekend.

    The coilovers are ST XTA +3.  At a high level these are KW V3 dampers with a different coating.  They are a 3 way adjustable (Rebound, High/Low speed compression) with height adjustable front/rear and camber plates up front.  The shorter sway bar links were included.  The instructions are my biggest complaint because they mix German and English and there's not really any organization.  It's not like one page is in German then the next is the same thing in English.  Some have both languages, some are only in German and some have the pages mirrored.  Thankfully the part where they tell you how to set up the rebound and compression is English!

    I have it set to their recommended settings and the ride height a little lower than the H&R springs.  The ride quality is amazing!  It's more comfortable than stock while giving me more confidence in corners, reduced push from the front end and it's far more settled if I hit a bump mid corner.  I need to get the car over to Big Bear for corner balance and alignment then the handling will be perfect!

    IMG_0338[1].jpg

    IMG_0477[1].jpg

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