m42b32
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Posts posted by m42b32
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43 minutes ago, damnboy037 said:
What’s your location?
That would be helpful wouldn't it. Sussex, WI
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Wheel: 16x7.5 et35, 5x120, 72.56mm centerbore
Tire: 205/55r16
Set of 4 O.Z. wheels with winter tires for BMW's for sale. I do not know the exact model of the wheels, but they are genuine OZ. Centercaps are included, though I do not have the screws to hold them in place. They are in decent condition with only two minor spots of curb rash. One wheel has a slight bend in the barrel, but it balances out and holds air no problem. Worth noting: these are one of the very few 16" wheels that will clear E36 M3 front brakes.
Tires are in great shape with no sidewall damage or plugs. All tires have 8/32 tread depth remaining. The tires all are date code 30/15. Lots of life left. Some of the best snow tires I have used as well, only selling because they will no longer fit on my car. Wibimmers price: $300. Located in Sussex, WI.
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2 minutes ago, SteelBlue said:
I see there is a STA-BIL product labeled "storage". Is this the one I should I go with or is there just a standard one I should use?
I didn't know there were different ones, the normal one has been fine for me
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19 minutes ago, Bassboy3313 said:
And don't forget the most crucial part of storing your bmw over winter ...... fold in the mirrors.
An absolute essential!
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1 hour ago, HipMF said:
Sounds like a CV carb. Presenting the fueling system with a step-change in manifold pressure makes it's job a lot harder. Most of the sensors that are used to measure what's going on in the engine have some sort of time-constant associated with them, so the computer only knows what happened maybe 20 or 30 milliseconds ago. Meanwhile, it's trying to guess about what the correct parameters are for the next combustion event when the current one hasn't even completed. Slowing down the rate-of-change helps it to guess better, which should result in better combustion.
There are probably other issues as well; the air that's rushing in to the intake manifold to bring it up to ambient pressure has mass and therefore inertia, so there's likely to be a little bit of reverberation in manifold pressure until everything equalizes.That's the most likely explanation I can come up with for the CV carb. Air could even potentially flow backwards through the carb, which would cause it to get fueled 3 times before it got into the engine...
Very interesting. I hadn't heard of that before but it makes a lot of sense
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From my understanding, the ms43 ecu (earlier M54 cars use this) has two functions that adjust the throttle body response to pedal inputs:
The first is Driver Wish Input Correction, which can limit the rate of increase of the throttle body plate based on a number of different inputs. (This is all from ms4x.net)
ip_pvs_cor_max_rpl_[gear] is used by the ecu to decide if the drivers requested pvs input increase should be limited. The values in the table is the lower limit and the X-axis is the upper limit. If the drivers requested pvs input is between these values then the ecu will start limiting the pvs input increase.
If the following conditions are met then the ecu will not try to start limiting the pvs input increase:
- The driver requested pvs input is decreasing.
- The driver requested pvs input change gradient is larger than c_pvs_av_grd_max_rpl(59,99° pvs).
- The clutch is pressed.
- The driver requested pvs input is higher than c_pvs_cor_max_rpl(42,5° PVS)
When the ecu starts limiting the pvs input increase the pvs input will be increased by the value taken from ip_pvs_cor_rpl_lgrd_[gear] until the following conditions are met:
- The limitation duration specified in ip_t_pvs_cor_rpl_[gear] has expired.
- The driver requested pvs input change gradient is larger than c_pvs_av_grd_max_rpl(59,99° pvs).
- The limited pvs input is larger than the driver requested pvs input.
If any of those conditions are met then the ecu will use the driver requested pvs input and will not start limiting the pvs input again until the time specified in c_t_dly_pvs_cor_rpl(0,2s) has elapsed.
The second is Throttle Request Correction, which sounds extremely similar but is used in lower RPM ranges and is dependent on current engine load. Again from the wiki:
ip_tps_req_ltc_min_[gear] is used by the ecu to decide if the throttle setpoint change should be limited. If the requested throttle setpoint is lower than the value in the table the throttle setpoint change will be limited.
If the following conditions are met then the ecu will not try to start limiting the throttle setpoint change:
- The clutch is pressed.
- The requested throttle setpoint is lower than c_tps_req_ltc_min(0.248° TPS)
When the ecu starts limiting the pvs input the throttle setpoint will be increased by the value taken from ip_tps_req_ltc_lgrd_[gear] until the following conditions are met:
- The limitation duration specified in ip_t_tps_req_ltc_max_[gear] has expired.
- The requested throttle setpoint is larger or equal to ip_tps_req_ltc_min_[gear].
- The clutch is pressed.
If any of those conditions are met then the ecu will use the requested throttle setpoint and will not start limiting the throttle setpoint again until the time specified in c_t_dly_tps_req_ltc(0,85s) has elapsed.
I believe the throttle request correction is what was making my car very hard to shift smoothly as it is likely tuned for the original clutch, gearing, etc. which I am not using. I was able to disable both of these by basically zeroing out a table and parameter as defined in the wiki. This made a huge difference in drivability as it should now function similar to a throttle cable. I have not dug into if there is any WOT limiting but I wouldn't be surprised if there is some form of it for emissions purposes, etc.
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55 minutes ago, straight6pwr said:
the new m3/m4: not even going to give them the satisfaction of reposting the photos. too ugly.
Just wait till you see the m-performance accessories they offer. yikes.
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12 hours ago, wasnt m3 said:
I've used Milwaukee Alloy Wheel Repair in the past with good results. Also, there's a shop in west allis that welded a few wheels for me at my old job, somewhere off Lincoln in west allis. I'd have to do some digging since it was basically someone doing side jobs out of their work place.
I did reach out to them, they said the crack might be too bad to repair unfortunately. Once I get the tire taken off they can make a final judgement but they did say it's usually worse on the inside so I'm not too optimistic. I was planning to get it pulled off this week and follow up with them.
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21 minutes ago, KaiserRolls said:
Don’t the revised detent pins come with press in sleeves/bushings?? As long as the bore isn’t too mangled I wouldn’t be worried about it as the new detent will have a sleeve to ride in
As long as any damage doesn't protrude and deform the sleeve inward it shouldn't really matter as far as I'm aware
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15 hours ago, need4speed1299 said:
born2drift axle adapters
Very interested in these, but couldn't find much info. Do you need to use different output flanges in the differential too?
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9 hours ago, Bassboy3313 said:
If you ARE looking to get the crack fixed, I know a guy who does awesome work. He fixed a crack/gouge on the set of ZHP wheels I bought for my touring. Just a thought if you were thinking of going that route.
My first choice would be to have it welded (depending on cost), I reached out to one place but would love a recommendation! I'll text you!
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1 minute ago, Rekpoint said:
I just picked up these wheels off a doppleganger of yours. Minus the performance kit + the manual transmission.
Works for visualizing a wheel suggestion.
Thats very helpful because I am leaning towards some 19" ARC-8's (or maybe EC-7's) if I do end up needing new wheels
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101.5k
Lame.
One of the rear wheels cracked bad enough to give me a flat tire yesterday. Apparently 19" style 225M and 313's have a reputation for fatigue cracks on the barrels. It cracked right alongside a previous repair (you can sort of see the weld just to the right), so it was probably only a matter of time. I'm having a very hard time trying to find a not cracked replacement so it might be time to start looking for some new wheels...
Good news: A rear contour fits perfectly on the rear of an e91. The tires are different heights so I'm going to avoid driving it like that, but at least I can move it around not on a flat.
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Awesome!! That will be an excellent daily (not that it isn't already). I'm happy to help if you need any M54/ms43 assistance!
- Bassboy3313 and B C
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How stretchy is it out of curiosity? I've been thinking of re-doing a few things in my car and last time I did a headliner I used a not stretchy suede and it was a huge pain.
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Bump, a bunch of new things added! Feel free to ask about things too, I have a lot of small e30 parts like trim, wire pigtails, glass, etc.
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1 hour ago, visian said:
Love it! What locality was it? We are actually in the Chicago area and don’t mind a bit of a trip for the right expert. I’ll check out SAAB central too, thanks for the tip!
Out in PA near Lancaster, I can't remember the shop exactly but it was recommended by a friend out there, would be quite the drive! I never had anything done by them so I can't comment on that part, just called them looking for parts and they seemed very knowledgeable.
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On 8/22/2020 at 11:07 AM, visian said:
Question, this may be a silly question to ask in a BMW forum, but y’all are smart and know people. I’m looking for a SAAB fanatic for a friend who has an 87 900 turbo (awesome) in need of some TLC. Anyone out there know of someone who is a SAAB expert? It’s a little niche, I know.
SAABcentral.com is a pretty useful forum that has a lot of 900 content! I had a '91 900 for a bit a few years back (not in this area unfortunately so I don't know of anyone local), I miss looking at and driving that car but I really don't really miss the endless hunting for parts...
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1 hour ago, patsbimmer1 said:
I'm running out of things that I want to modify on the car but i'm checking one more off the list soon. My car has the beloved burl walnut trim that BMW inexplicably put on every fucking car if no other trim option was selected. It's not the worst I've ever seen but it's one little thing in the car that draws attention away from the sporting nature of the car. I didn't want to do CF because my interior is already covered in black and I didn't think the CF would pop enough, also I didn't want to sell a testicle to buy it. I opted to go a little different and plan on covering the wood trim with M cross fabric that I ordered from Relicate. If you haven't checked them out I highly recommend it! I like the randomness of the pattern. It'll also add color without being too in your face.
Also - I registered for the FVSCC / MSCC Road America AutoCross on 9/13. I hope to see some of you guys there!
That's a great idea! Definitely interested to see how it looks.
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A tempgun is probably a good thing to try since I don't necessarily trust the factory gauge to be accurate. The temp switch is at the coldest part of the cooling system so it makes sense to me that the engine itself gets pretty hot before the fan kicks on. Admittedly I have a different engine and an e36 radiator, but for reference the head temperature (reading data from the ECU) on my car is about 210 when the fan kicks on with a 91C switch (61311364272).
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https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/cto/d/streamwood-2008-bmw-335xi/7163578386.html
I wish the seller would've blocked more of it so nobody would have to look at it
Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum
in Members BMWs
Posted
I have IE3 springs and Bilstein sport dampers and overall I like how they handle and ride. Compared to the vogtlands I had before that were way too soft for the bilsteins, the stiffer spring rates have eliminated hitting the front bump stops like I was before (though that was with drop hats) and arguably ride a lot better because of it. What I don't like is how the car sits. The back is right where I'd like it to be but the front feels like its a full inch too high. Its particularly worse on my car because I run fixed camber plates that add about 1/4" of height.