Rekpoint
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Posts posted by Rekpoint
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A tiny update, After testing a few times the mirror did not work. Found more info online and after swapping pin 2 to pin 7 on the mirror side it worked!
Oval mirror will be glued up and installed soon.
Also got a few goodies in the mail. Finally got my hands on a set of backordered M3 floormats from FCP along with the matching trunk mat.
Now if I ever ruin them I have a lifetime warranty. Also received a new hood vent, thermostat, VC gasket, some random hardware to install fog lights and a few other miscellaneous bits I needed.
I will say the new construction on the mats are piss poor. Here are my complaints if you guys care.
Not as plush and more stiff, M3 is now a PATCH and not embroidered in, no more purple in the M colors and the funniest part. The 3 in "M3" is the wrong font.
Cant wait to actually start working on this stuff in the spring.
Next to order, New tires, AB&C pillar fabric and some fresh RBF 600
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Going to look so sweet!
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Good looking steering wheel! Who did you go with?
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Damn, You had me until I saw it was an XI. That would be a perfect daily otherwise.
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6 hours ago, YoungCR said:
steering wheel looks like money well spent
Cant wait to drive it in the spring!
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Hope everyone is having a good Christmas with the fam! Unfortunately due to covid I don't have any extended family left to spend time with.. Take that how you will..
I decided to drive down the street and work on the M3 for a bit today. Starting from the beginning.
When I put the car into storage, I pulled the steering wheel, shiftknob/boot and rear view mirror
I stripped and resprayed the steering wheel trim, Looking back I should have just left it as it was a bunch of work. But I am happy with the results.
Steering wheel arrived on the 23rd from Tanik Wheel in Germany, I ended up going with a nappa leather re-wrap, tri color M stitch, no center stripe and I made sure he removed the old leather. (This is the only reason I didn't go with Coby wheel, He overlays alacantara/leather overtop of your existing leather) I also heard of quality of material concerns from Coby aswell. Tanik was nearly double the price with no core. But based on forum reviews it is as good as I am going to get before its just worth buying a new OEM Dakota M3 steering wheel.
Back in October I scored an F80 M3 shift knob off eBay for $60 shipped with 3k miles. It was very poorly labeled and was very excited to remove the ZHP knob for an illuminated version because I am butthurt. Well turns out the seller was an idiot.. He sent the knob in a bubble mailer with no bubble wrap in "Media Mail" For those of you who aren't familiar media mail is strictly for sending media like newspapers CDs etc. I pulled the knob out of the package and it caught a metal edge somewhere and there was a huge chunk of leather missing from the knob.. Disappointing as I wont be able to get another one for that price again.
My buddy Nick from Vermont @f80ghost on Instagram, heard what happened and bartered with me a knob for a fire extinguisher. Not as good of a deal as the original but I will take it.
I switched out the old Vinyl m color shift boot that was in the car since Jordan picked the car up in 2018 for a Race German OE style black boot. I am very impressed with the quality on this. Feels much better and looks much better then the old one.
The F80 shift knob retrofit is a bit more involved then the F10 M5 knob because you cant just switch boot frames and reuse the shift boot. As the F80 boot is smaller and not symmetrical like the F10 boot.
I needed to remove the F80 boot from the knob and chip off the 2 additional clips that were not needed. Instead of de-pinning the connector to slide though a hole I made in the shift boot, I decided to cut the wires and just re-solder the 2 wires.
I was able to do all this without cutting the wires, Not so successful for myself unfortunately. The last cut I made into the boot I got myself good with a fresh X-Acto knife. Would not stop bleeding. But you can see with picture proof. Start without a band-aid end with one. All n all very happy with how this turned out. Just need to add a zip tie to keep the boot from falling down. Ill do that probably tomorrow as I have one more project to finish up.
Last project I need to finish up is the rear view mirror. Talking to @pynaclhe convinced me to switch to an Oval mirror over keeping the SOS mirror. I was fortunate enough to have purchased an oval mirror a few years ago to retrofit into an E36 m3. It was cheaper to buy replacement glass for the oval mirror ($60) then buy a replacement SOS mirror or send it in to get refurbished $150 for both. So the other night I took on the project.
The main thing forum members complained about was blowing up their oval mirror when plugging it into an SOS wired car. The car has more power running to the mirror for the Roadside assistance and 911 buttons. To fix that problem all I had to do is de-pin pins 4 though 7. While I could have just snipped them off I wanted to do it the "Right" way. I de-pinned them from the connector and slipped some heat shrink over them and electrical tapped them to the rest of the harness. The mirror isnt installed yet as I forgot my keys and couldn't test the auto-dim.
To replace the mirror I had to de-solder / snap out the main board connected to the old mirror. After removing the board I removed the black plastic holder and removed the old double sided tape. After putting on some 3m double sided tape I centered it on the new mirror and soldered the 2 wires back on! Honestly so simple a monkey could do it. Based on what online advertisements say, This mirror should last longer then OEM. I bet not.. See you in 15 years.
I will finish installation tomorrow and post up some before and after mirror photos.
Some cool things I am looking forward to in 2022. I am doing a full leatherique leather treatment on the seats, I have a full 2 year ceramic coating going on in the spring that I won from Imola Motorsports in Minneapolis. And last but not least, the Eisenmann race exhaust should go on eventually I just need time to get both cars on a lift and swap them over due to technical difficulties expressed in a previous post. For now I think I have everything done I wanted to do this winter. We will see if I come up with anything else.
- pynacl, KaiserRolls and P_Roloff
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10 hours ago, KaiserRolls said:
Hopefully you never have to use it
Or it’s one of those situations where it’s the only thing you save from a car fire because of how rare it is
I told my mother if her car ever lit on fire, just to let it burn. It'll be better that way.
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I have an ender 3 and I like it. If I start using it more Ill buy the pro.
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I use Fusion 360 to design things because it comes free with my Tuition. Pay 14k a year and get a free program. Great.
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15 hours ago, pynacl said:
Personally prefer this setup to an electric fan swap, because it just works. No overheating in hot weather while stopped, no blasting heat in the middle of summer or messing with fan shrouds etc
Why do I feel like this is a jab at me.
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3 hours ago, patsbimmer1 said:
I'd suggest going with a shortened or adjustable sway bar link. The stock ones are made for the stock height. You're going to change the pre-load on the sway bar and could impact your handling if you stick with the stock sway bar links and lowered height.
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4 hours ago, patsbimmer1 said:
That's cheap for a frozen car. I've never been a fan of that black though. Looks incomplete.
I agree, And actually it has 65k miles. The car has 103k Kilometers.
3 hours ago, wasnt m3 said:I'd agree, the frozen black makes the car look cheap. Also, pretty crappy description and photos for a car of that caliber.
I second that, Description sucks. But cheap individual car, What could go wrong.
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1 hour ago, KaiserRolls said:
Those 200tw RS4s will be roached after getting cold cycled
Meh they already are. Ill have new tires waiting in the spring.
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Well, this is the post I dreaded making. The end of the season.
Finished up the season with an oil change from FCP at 168,984 miles!
Fully detailed the interior and removed my junk.
On my way to get a carwash with undercarriage wash I cruised to that 169k mile mark!
A few other things I forgot to update earlier from September if you haven't already noticed is that I swapped the black kidney + fender vents for some OEM chrome and I dig the look. Just need to install fog lights in the spring to complete it!
I also refinished the peeling soft touch center console with a product called Colorbond 258 BMW Black LVP paint. Gives it the OEM look WITHOUT the soft touch! I think it turned out OK. Alot of prep was my only complaint..
Car is going to be stored at my shop down the street. Non heated cold storage but at least under a roof. 4 carpet samples will be under the tires to hopefully reduce flat spotting (Mother is interior designer) in preparation for new tires come spring. Steelwool in exhaust tips, dryer sheets in cabin, trunk + engine bay and disconnecting the battery.
Using sheets for the time being to keep the dust off. My dad bought me an early Christmas gift of a car cover. So that will go on as soon as it gets here!
Last but not least I am pulling out the rear view mirror for a fluid change over the winter, the steering wheel and shift knob + shift boot for some changes to the driving feel for next spring.
- P_Roloff, Jdesign, Bassboy3313 and 2 others
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2 hours ago, SteelBlue said:
Posted in the FB group chat, but was able to score two pretty rare items for a steal on eBay last week. They are in pretty good condition, the dead pedal has a little bit of the paint flaking. I’m not sure if these are painted or powder coated from the factory.
I don’t know what the proper way to “restore” these would be. Media blasting and then powder coated? Or would it be better to just leave them as is? The valve cover would be a really good candidate for dry ice cleaning.
Sandblast, Powdercoat, Sand. And I would clear powercoat over the top.
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Not sure what you are planning to spray the inside of the frame with. But I highly recommend this stuff.
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/collision-repair-us/featured-products/cavity-wax-plus/
This is what GOOD body shops use to prevent rust on repaired cars.
Or what smart people should have used on their 2000-2007 Chevy truck rocker panels.
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32 minutes ago, GunMetalGrey said:
Anyone there?
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A few weeks ago @pynacl and I decided to meet up in Prescott Wisconsin and drive the Mississippi down to Pepin then up towards Durand for some Stone Barn Pizza. One of the last HOORAHS before putting the M3s in storage.
Great driving roads + fall colors, Cant get much better then that.
Saw a few cool cars out doing the same thing we were. A few miatas, a Z3M roadster with a Dinan exhaust and a sweet brand new Aston Martin
Shout out to Ethyn + Jake for the photos. I forgot my camera as per usual.
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Cant wait until you get the wheels on!
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3 hours ago, damnboy037 said:
Anybody have any ideas for a personalized m2 plate?
F87, N55B30, MTOO, MTWO, M2FAST, PYRAT2 (1M Was code nammed Pyrat after the rum)
Those are some of my ideas. All available too.
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Official Vanity Plate Thread
in General Off-Topic
Posted
You must be from Wisconsin
You must be from Wisconsin.