SteelBlue
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Posts posted by SteelBlue
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Interior back in the car. Almost ready to make its summer/fall residence in my garage. Which means the truck will be in the lot. Storage unit was nice to have both cars in covered storage, but saving ~$80 a month will also be nice. Car will stay in my parents storage for winter unit once they put their boat away for the season.
Carpet extraction, Leatherique, and exhaust are the first bits on the list to start the season off.
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Saw a plate in my apartment complex, "S4IGON"
'Nam guy, I'm sure
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10 hours ago, GunMetalGrey said:
It's uncomfortable how easily everything comes apart on this thing... Parking brake lines running into the chassis came out without even pulling
Tossing in riser bushings and new trailing arm bushings, rebuilding and painting the brake calipers, repainting everything, installing new brake lines, and putting it back in without a diff or axles (current ones lack grease, and diff is wrong for my application)
Progress, not engine bay though, which I'm waiting for some warmth from the elements before painting.Refinishing the rear subframe is something I would like to do in the future. RTAB's, subframe bushings, powder coat the frame and the arms, and change the seals on the diff. I just need a place that the car can be up on stands for awhile.
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Pain.
What actually causes the valves to contact the piston? When it over rev's, it exceeds the limits on the springs and the valve extends further than it should contacting the piston?
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19 hours ago, YoungCR said:
This and I would just plan on getting a full set of studs/nuts to replace them. It’s tedious but you’re likely to have a few of those nuts seized to the stud and will only come out as one.
Probably will just end of buying this.
https://www.iemotorsport.com/product/exhaust-hanger-kit-e30-m20/
I'll have to check, but it looks like the cat back came with 4 exhaust studs and nuts.
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I think Euro weaves were the only ones that came in 15"? Or did IX weaves also come in 15" but they are high offset?
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Depends the size you want. If you are fine with 14's or 15's there should be a good amount of options.
4x100 16" apparently does not exist except for rep wheels. 5x120 16" has a lot of OEM BMW options, adapters are a solution to this.
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Not sure if anyone has seen these before, buddy sent me a link last week and ordered one of the Stella frames.
Don't see a part number anywhere on the box, so not sure if these were a dealer item? Or if this is just fan made? Frame is metal, finish on the frame appears quality. The box is very nice as well which makes me think it is a dealer item.
Plate comes with this canvas type material of some of the art cars on it. The back of art piece has a backing material similar to a picture frame that has a fold out stand.
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This
setupcars fucks -
Cars been down since August of last year. Was leaking coolant into the drivers footwell. Believed to be heater core valve. Purchased the valve, heater core, and O rings that should be here end of this week. I don’t want to deal with draining coolant or any of that shit so I’m having the guys at Auto Clinic do it. I also don’t really have anywhere to do the repair at the moment.
I did take the interior apart to make it easier for them to do the repair. Now it’s exposed and ready for them to replace.
You can see where it appears to have been leaking based on the carpet. It might be the O rings that failed, but I’m just going to replace all of it.
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Posted in the FB group chat, but was able to score two pretty rare items for a steal on eBay last week. They are in pretty good condition, the dead pedal has a little bit of the paint flaking. I’m not sure if these are painted or powder coated from the factory.
I don’t know what the proper way to “restore” these would be. Media blasting and then powder coated? Or would it be better to just leave them as is? The valve cover would be a really good candidate for dry ice cleaning.
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You know who to contact when you need wheels and tires
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23 hours ago, straight6pwr said:
i think BaT is detrimental to enthusiasts and i wont support it.
it will be listed locally, forums and reluctantly Facebook.
I think Doug DeMuro had to, either legally or general business sake, changed how he promoted his site, Cars and Bids. I remember seeing some videos that in the beginning he claimed you would “get the most money” for your car. Which is objectively false but also conveys a message that if you buy on this site you are paying the most for it.
Not that they already weren’t, but cars have been commodified via sites like Bat and C&B.
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7 hours ago, GunMetalGrey said:
I'm a bit confused by this statement.
You got a component system, and didn't run the crossover? Are you not using the tweeters on the 9630?
At any rate, I have the same speakers in the Titan (to replace one blown speaker...) and have been pleased with their quality and ability to handle high volume with great clarity.To connect the crossovers with the door speakers, they both have to route to the cross over. One way shape or form, some wire has to pass through the door for either the tweeter or the door speaker. I was not about to drill a hole through the molex connector in the door loom(which is how I saw people were doing it). And I don’t want to have a miscellaneous wire hanging in the door. Next time you’re back, you can hook it up and route it for me😁
I am using the tweeters, just have them connected to the factory tweeter harness.
Thank you to @YoungCRfor creating a separate thread for this. What I should have done from the beginning.
I said I would be done with mods, and I kind of lied. Albeit, this one isn’t a new item, but more of a rerouting. I was tired of having my phone cable strewn over my center console area from having to plug into the Sync ports at the front of the console. I also couldn’t ever close this roll top door at the front of the console due to this cable running out of it. The importance of the cable, is that it connects my iPhone to the truck to utilize Apple Car Play. Since this isn’t a 2021, I do not have wireless Car Play and have to have a hard wire connection like a peasant.
The solution? Drill.
Pulled the shifter trim surround off and was able to make some small holes in a couple of places to allow me to snake the iPhone cable through the structure of the center console to allow me to still use the function of the cable, but have it “hidden”.
This took me about 10 minutes, $2 in grommets, and made my center console area way more orderly. Love the result.
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Mods keep coming, but this is likely the last for a while. The F150’s that did not have the premium stereo options are pretty widely regarded as dog shit. I agree, it’s a serviceable system that does the job but is not good. Even after the F30’s non HK system, there was a lot to be desired. I purchased the following Infinity Reference speakers to do a complete 7 speaker replacement.
This is my first attempt into car audio so ordering through Crutchfield was a big help and the included adapters made things really straight forward for the door speakers. Tweeter and center console was some pretty straight forward butt connections.
This came with crossovers, but trying to route the wires is not something I am interested in taking on at the time being. Future project. You can see there’s a pretty significant difference in just the speaker build alone:
Overall, worthwhile improvement. Significant increase in just overall sound quality and texture, which is exactly what I wanted. A little additional bass as well. After doing this, I think a sub is required. Kicker makes a powered sub that fits behind the rear bench seat that looks just like the OEM style ones.
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7 hours ago, GunMetalGrey said:
You vs the guy she tells you not to worry about?
Exactly.
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On 9/20/2021 at 12:13 PM, REKIII said:
I'm getting all jelly with your ford mods. Recently sold my Gen2 Raptor and picked up a Sierra. What a different world.
Huge pile of mods to do to it to 'make it mine' Should be fun, but I do miss the Ford.
Love the color of yours, great choice on the wheels!!!Gen 2 raptor is the dream for an unnecessary daily driver. Not a huge fan of the newer GM interiors, think the Ford ones are better.
Funny enough a co worker has pretty much Raptor I want, in the same color as well.
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12 hours ago, KaiserRolls said:
Keep the air dam. Looks great
I plan to keep it.
Train keeps rolling with the modifications. This one both functional and aesthetic. @patsbimmer1 has me able to actually see properly at night time now with these Alpharex LUXX LED protector headlights. I swapped the halogen bulbs for some LED ones in the stock housings when I first got the truck. Albeit an improvement, it was incremental. These headlights actually have a defined cut off point and do a great job illuminating the road. After driving my moms new Acadia that had good headlights, I’ve needed that for my own vehicle.
I think the black housings, projector “eyes”, and DRL planks fit the truck well without looking overly aftermarket.
I was very much against having to use an additional wire harness for the DRLs as I want to have as minimal intrusions to the actual functioning parts of the vehicle and to not have a rats nest under the hood. Think the tuck job came out well and was able to make a couple small notches in the fuse box for the trigger wire to run through that still allows the box to seal properly.
The One That Didn't Get Away [100K Mile E30 325is]
in Members BMWs
Posted
I think I was able to trouble shoot, or at least narrow down the cause of my radio issue.
I pulled the deck out, and un hooked the speaker wires from the back of the deck, and then turned the radio on. According to the trouble shooting process outlined in this post, if you don't hear the bad sounds when the speakers are undone, then it's the deck. Which was the case for my test, no noise made when I undid the wires and turned the deck on, and turned it all the way up. As soon as I would touch one of the speaker wires to the deck, the sound would come back.
I wasn't able to recreate the second portion of his post where you plug a speaker into the back of the deck. I have a non powered speaker on my desk that I brought to the car and tried plugging the positive wire into the speaker output on the deck and grounding the negative wire on the radio chassis. Was not able to get a sound. But that could be because I didn't have a connector on the wire and was just sticking the bare wire in, or I wasn't grounding it properly.
Regardless, I think I have gotten to the point that I can make an assumption that there is an issue with the deck. I even tried the method of using electronics cleaner on the volume knob and the receptacle of the deck outlined in this post. But no luck.
My next choice is to now either go with the continental or find an OEM replacement. Leaning toward the Conti.
Looking on eBay, do these CM5908's really go for hundreds of dollars?
**I'm assuming this connection is for if it had a CD change in the back?
Reading another thread on R3V, apparently it's for a 5 or 7 series that used the same radio but had an LCD display.