KaiserRolls
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Posts posted by KaiserRolls
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5 minutes ago, Nick_08 said:
Was the radiator shrouding needed? Have you found this to be worthwhile? New rad will be nice, might not be a bad idea to replace the thermostat or pump since you're in there.
thermostat is like a year old, gasket is about a year old, waterpump is a Stewart unit that @B C installed. should be good on that front.
on my trip i never saw temps higher than middle of the gauge on the cluster.
VDO coolant gauge showed a max of like 205 during some of the beat runs in 90 degree heat
proper shrouding is always worthwhile
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Ok so found the leak, radiator apparently bit the bullet
really odd spot, right in front of the tstat housing, which is why I thought it was the tstat housing
not going to mess around having it fixed, went ahead and ordered a z3m mishimoto xline rad. Thicker core and more coolant capacity. Also got some more adhesive foam so I can better seal up some remaining gaps from my first go around.
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13 minutes ago, Nick_08 said:
I honestly don't have high hopes but I thought I would give it a try. I'm not exactly sure how I will set up the logic to run the pump. I was thinking to have it turn on when I hit 100 kpa and/or IAT above x. Thoughts? I think the intermittent cycling will keep the water cooler for a longer amount of time. I am also thinking about adding an override switch in the cabin to run the pump continuous if I wanted. Anyway, I think the pump will change how fast the IAT changes so I'll have to wait and see.
Thinking out loud, I think I could even leave this pump and add another in the tank or just outside to serve as a feed. It may or may not work but, likely just make the system more complicated. The best choice is probably to fork out the $$$ for a pump should I find the need.
Manual, Wilwood pedal box with factory calipers and HPS pads. I've been looking at options to upgrade the calipers and rotors. Any suggestions?
For pumps like those, you could use a simple livewell timer to control how often it runs.
The ice in my cooler lasted way longer doing intermittent cycling, could’ve been placebo effect though too as I’d use it when I warmed up again.
for brakes if you think you need larger, just make sure you match the master cyl size with whatever you go with. I have stock brakes and just upgraded pads (hp+) and fluid with a 7 series master. (EDIT: just saw your post and realize you have a aftermarket pedal box.)So far so good and it preformed well enough for me in autox/mountains. I have a hpde scheduled in sep and Can get you some more feedback. I have a strong feeling they will be ok. If anything I might jump to a different pad (GLOC r6/r8)
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As far as your pump goes I would test what gph you’re actually going to get thru your heat exchanger/tubing/etc. For what it’s worth my 500gph pump for my coolshirt setup ends up being like 11gph at the shirt through smaller tubing.
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36 minutes ago, m42b32 said:
Going a different route??
If it sells yea
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Welcome to here
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2 hours ago, B C said:
Time to buy a lotto ticket. Did the temps get high dangerously high when that happened? That is amazing luck! Gotta make a coolshirt for the engine
Nope temps were in check the entire time, small leak, but it was enough to spray coolant every which way
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All the changes + alignment/corner balance will be fantastic
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8 hours ago, B C said:
@KaiserRolls thread updates are proof that my helicoil hell was a success.
sucks when months later you read of a shop that recommends 9 ft-lb instead of 11 because they have seen the same issue repeatedly. Would have been nice to try that instead
Can confirm the success, however when I pulled into my driveway at 12:30AM it was spewing coolant. What the hell man??? I’m gonna lemon law your a$$
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14 hours ago, YoungCR said:
Beautiful! How much ice did you go through?
1 to 2 ten lb bags per day. On the way home I got a bag every time I got gas
pulled in home at like 12:30am, car was smoking/steaming. Looks like I get to do a thermostat housing gasket, maybe if I’m lucky it’s a water pump. Couldn’t have failed at a better time though
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Coolshirt has been the MVP of the trip
- Rekpoint, Bassboy3313, HipMF and 3 others
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1 hour ago, YoungCR said:
Added to my list. I know the E28 rubber/foam firewall insulation is NLA, I'm sure its lighter over oem too.
It is pretty light for what it is, just buy a bunch of brake clean to prep/clean the area-the adhesive is pretty sensitive to grease
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Cruised around a bit tonight. Coolant temps seemed slightly cooler, probably more related to ambient temps than any ducting
also tossed the new PS pump in and bled the system, which ultimately cured the whine
new grommets showed up for the fender trim pieces, the DS was basically falling out and the trim is NLA
all fluids are fresh and the car is ready to go the mountains (hopefully)
in an attempt to keep the Miata cabin cool we added a turbo heat shield. Used DEI Floor and tunnel ii adhesive heat shield in the inside of the turbo shield and some reflective tape on the exterior. Also lined the entire firewall behind the down pipe and trans tunnel with the stuff
only posting Miata content because that DEI heat shield stuff is awesome, an aftermarket product that actually works worth a crap. If your floor/tunnel gets too hot, I’d recommend this stuff.
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New PS pump is in, just need to slap the pulley and serp belt back on.
Decided to make some ducting for the radiator.
started by adding adhesive backed foam in between the core support and the rad, trying to block all the openings I could.
you can see how wide open everything is in front of/on the sides the radiator
then moved on to dr. Pepper box templates.
transferred to some thin aluminum sheet
there were existing holes in the core support that I had to enlarge a bit to use 1/4-20 rivnuts
here’s the basic idea - it needed a bit more trimming to clear a wire harness
holes drilled and installed. I added aluminum foil tape to the corners to better secure the 3 pieces together. Also used some adhesive backed foam in certain areas to eliminate vibration
fairly well-hidden once the grilles and valence plastic pieces are back ini was not having any issues with the cooling system, I just got bored. Figured it wouldn’t hurt to try & it might be beneficial once I start bringing this to more hpde type events
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Finished
velcro loops to keep the hoses from flying around
ignore the air bubbles in the line, had a spare hose cobbled together to make sure the pump worked/cooler didn’t leak
fairly well out of sight in the cabin
Hopefully this makes a 14.5 hour drive less miserable. Figure I’ll have to get a small bag of ice every other gas stop depending on how hot it is
next project is slapping the new PS pump in and getting that bled.
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cooler is ready to go, just need to add the female ends to the hose in the car
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1 hour ago, m42b32 said:
Ive been meaning to do this, can never be too careful. How easy is it to reach on the passenger side vs. having it on the driver's side?
Joe you’re like 6’4” you’ll be ok lol. If you can reach the glovebox you can reach where I have it. I also do not want anything in the drivers side just in case
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Lines routed, had to take a die grinder and open up the hole below the ski pass and remove a bit of rear seatback foam to ensure the lines don’t kink
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FedEx is the worst offender by far. UPS all day
- m42b32 and patsbimmer1
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Coolshirt progress
currently waiting on the marine adhesive to dry
- B C and patsbimmer1
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