Reverse Bleeding

[CMart]

My car has been down for a while. Plumbing is a big part of what I have to do to get it back up and running. I have heard reverse bleeding is better/faster/easier. Does anyone have experience with it? Any input on which kit to buy? Will need to do my brake system and clutch.

[YoungCR]

I just reverse bled my clutch last night. I made a home-made bleeder with a small oil can and some clear tubing. Just attach the tube to the bleeder screw on the clutch slave and pump till you don't see any bubbles. Helps to have a partner confirm there are no bubbles up at the resivioir.

Can't say I've heard of brakes being reverse bled though. Personally I don't see how it's any more effective and you would likely pump contaminants into the fluid resivioir, which you would then have to clean out. I've always just had someone help me by pumping the peddle. Sometimes you gotta do a second bleed to get good results.

[Rowleym]

I did the clutch in the same manner that he did and man it worked fantastic. 

My car sat for a while and i'm having A HELL OF A TIME bleeding the brakes currently. I believe it has to do with the ABS. The calipers all bleed great, but there is still air in the system. 

[patsbimmer1]

DO NOT REVERSE BLEED WITH ABS!  It's the same reason you do not push a caliper piston in without opening a bleeder screw.  You have a high probability of pushing contaminants into the ABS unit and causing more issues than if you just take your time and bleed it correctly.  How do you know there is air in the system?  Is the pedal soft/spongy?  How are you currently bleeding the system?

[patsbimmer1]

If you suspect the ABS module to be the issue then I would recommend bleeding the ABS module.  Have someone build pressure like you were bleeding the brakes but instead of cracking the bleeders you'll open up the outgoing lines from the ABS.

[CMart]

My ABS is removed for the time being to get the car up and running. I may reinstall at a later date, but for now It will be without.

 

The car sat for months with brake lines unattached, so I am assuming it will not be fun hence wanting to reverse bleed as I have heard people have better luck vs traditional.

 

Link to the parts you used for the home made?

 

Anyone have thoughts on this unit? http://www.amazon.com/Phoenix-Systems-2104-B-Reverse-Bleeder/dp/B00GRV800S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435592408&sr=8-1&keywords=reverse+bleeder

[YoungCR]

I'd suggest a plastic machine oil can as my metal one I first used rusted shut. Whatever clear vinyl tubing size they have at the hardware store too that fits snug on a bleeder screw and the nozzle.

[Rowleym]

my pedal sinks about 1/4 the way when I start the car. My booster was great before, and I replaced the check valve, and the calipers bleed great, and the pedal is hard when the car isn't on. My abs still works, though, as I tested it..


If I bring the pedal up when the car is running, it rolls just fine. When I push it down, they stick down a little. 

[ClassE]

I'd suggest a plastic machine oil can as my metal one I first used rusted shut. Whatever clear vinyl tubing size they have at the hardware store too that fits snug on a bleeder screw and the nozzle.

If metal -Try to get one that isn't coated/painted red like the one above. The brake fluid will eat away at the cheap Chinese paint and it'll flake into the fluid (like mine did).

I tried the reverse bleed when doing my clutch slave and couldn't get the right combo of nozzle/hose to seal tight enough.... So bled it with vacuum bleeder.

[KaiserRolls]

I will have to bench bleed slave then bleed some more once I get the crap in the car. I'm not looking forward to that portion of the install.

[patsbimmer1]

my pedal sinks about 1/4 the way when I start the car. My booster was great before, and I replaced the check valve, and the calipers bleed great, and the pedal is hard when the car isn't on. My abs still works, though, as I tested it..

If I bring the pedal up when the car is running, it rolls just fine. When I push it down, they stick down a little. 

 

Your pedal is supposed to sink after you start the car, especially if you built pressure in the pedal before starting it.

[Rowleym]

my pedal sinks about 1/4 the way when I start the car. My booster was great before, and I replaced the check valve, and the calipers bleed great, and the pedal is hard when the car isn't on. My abs still works, though, as I tested it..

If I bring the pedal up when the car is running, it rolls just fine. When I push it down, they stick down a little. 

 

Your pedal is supposed to sink after you start the car, especially if you built pressure in the pedal before starting it.

Is it supposed to sink a bit and stay? The brakes stick a bit unless I pull the pedal back up.

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[patsbimmer1]

It is supposed to sink and stay after you start the car.  If  your pedal is physically sticking then it is something mechanical between the master and the pedal.  If you had sticking calipers but the pedal didn't stick then it would be something after the master most likely.

[Rowleym]

the pedal is not returning. The calipers stick until I pull the brake pedal up again. its very easy to pull the pedal up again. 

[Rowleym]

It is supposed to sink and stay after you start the car.  If  your pedal is physically sticking then it is something mechanical between the master and the pedal.  If you had sticking calipers but the pedal didn't stick then it would be something after the master most likely.

such as my ABS system?

[patsbimmer1]

No. Your abs wouldnt cause the issue. Thats a hydraulic piece that wouldnt hold your pedal.

[Rowleym]

Hmm so any ideas? Where would you start.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[patsbimmer1]

Hmm so any ideas? Where would you start. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

PM'd to prevent further thread jacking.