cpandrewschmidt Posted March 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 i think that's OK. nothing milky in oil. i've popped the cap and looked good when i did the valve cover gasket before changing the oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 Surging when warm can be caused by the ecu coolant temp sensor. My e30 would surge once warmed up randomly until I cleaned the connector that plugs into it. It can be a misleading problem because the dashboard gauge is a separate sensor. It will cause a too rich condition because it thinks the engine is still cold. I would check this to rule it out. Do you have a multimeter? Here is a detailed testing procedure. http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Blue_Plug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 This is very similar to what I have going on with my e30 except mine doesn't surge at idle when up to temp, it high idles instead.As a side not when I was looking for sensors online shopping via ECS and BluntTech they both had the ecu and dash sensors listed as "water temp sensor". I'm replacing both just cause. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpandrewschmidt Posted March 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 I picked up an ECU coolant temp sensor cause it was $16, figured i'd just try that and I'm not out much if it isn't it. Probably on its way out anyways if I have the original. I'll get that in tomorrow and let you know. Badger game to watch tonight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 Did the one you bought have two contacts on the connection? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpandrewschmidt Posted March 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 Yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpandrewschmidt Posted March 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 well, the ecu coolant temp didn't do anything. next guess is fuel pressure regulator i think unless someone else has another idea. Anyone know if I could take one off of a e28 5 series? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 Compare the part numbers on realoem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris3 Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 Just out of curiousity disconnect the O2 sensor and see if that makes a difference with the surging. andyhundley 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpandrewschmidt Posted March 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 Ran to the junk yard and got a fuel pump regulator used. It didn't work. Tried o2 sensor idea and no difference. I have no idea. Could a bad catalytic converter do something like this? Would that just suddenly go? I'm out of ideas for cheap parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris3 Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 If disconnecting the 02 sensor made no difference in the surging then perhaps there is a problem with the O2 sensor. An O2 sensor on its way out would cause idle problems once the engine is warm. I don't remember reading in the thread but are you throwing any CELs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris3 Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 One more in the cheap fix column, have you put any gas in it since you bought it, and how long was it sitting before you bought it? You might want to throw in a bottle of HEET and some fresh gas, drive/run it for a while and see if that makes a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpandrewschmidt Posted March 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 i have above a 1/4 tank left. i had to fill it up on my way back from IL when i bought it end of Nov. I did start it throughout the winter and i did just yesterday throw some fuel injector cleaner in. Unfortunately it won't make it to a gas station to top her off:( Did the stomp test and didn't get any codes. So, you think o2 is the next cheapest thing to try? no other way of testing that I assume? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris3 Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 Cheap: Since the car won't make it to the gas station go to Wally world or where ever and pick up a 5 gallon plastic gas container and a bottle of HEET gas line dryer. The injector cleaner you added needs to get mixed in with the gas, so maybe adding some will help. Cheap: 1/4 tank maybe your fuel pump pickup is clogged (rust flakes etc)? Pump is under the rear seat passenger side. Pull the pump and see if the screen/sock is clogged. Cheap: metal elbows on the throttle body. Are these tight? O2 sensor: not so cheap. There are ways to test (folks will weigh in here, or if you have an Bentley handy; maybe this http://www.verrill.com/car/idle/e30_o2test.shtml), but I replaced mine on both e30s since very high mileage and I had no idea when it was done last. Just a heads up that they were a pain to remove. A fouled O2 sensor could be the issue and would not necessarily show up in the stomp test/code read. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpandrewschmidt Posted March 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 thanks Boris3. I might just do the o2 sensor. Car has 100k on it and i dont know when it was ever done. I'd be surprised if the filter gets clogged as it take the car running for about 5 mins of running before it starts to bogg down. If it got clogged do you think that would happen quicker? I'll check it eitherway though. Cant hurt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 You haven't put gas in since last November? Get some fresh stuff asap. Try to find it without ethanol, ethanol deteriorates quickly and is not friendly to older cars. If the cat was plugged the vacuum would drop as you revved the engine higher. And typically idle will be ok but power will be poor to terrible when trying to drive. Sent from my potato phone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpandrewschmidt Posted March 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 yes same tank, car has been in and out of storage for the winter. it does fire right up and drives fine for a bit, so it doesn't seem like the gas is bad? Does smell like she's running a bit rich though. But yes, some fresh gas is on the list. Was going to try to get some today but didn't make it out of the subdivision. Here's what she looks like today. Figured I'd give you all some eye candy so you can see the cause you're working on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpandrewschmidt Posted March 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 Hi again all. Looks like i'm stuck. Added fresh gas, checked the gas pump filter and that was clean, changed o2 sensor. Still having the same problem. No idea and its not driveable. Bad DME? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris3 Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 Ok time to go back to the beginning. Car was running better before you did all the tune up things, correct? Was it sputtering at all before you did anything to it?So it's something you did. Basics: -the plug wires are connected correctly to the proper holes on the distributor cap and to the proper cylinders.-you replaced the rotor ; rotor was ok-you removed the metal screw on pieces on the ends of the spark plugs-You made sure timing was correct (nothing jumped a tooth when you were installing the belt, tensioner was changed) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris3 Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 Basics cont:-any hoses removed, reattached improperly when removing the valve cover, or opening the air box to replace the filter (the wire plug to the air box unconnected/ reconnected), metal elbows still tight on the throttle body after working on the air box, -main accordion air hose to throttle body not cracked in the accordion seams (old hose could crack when opening the air box to replace the filter) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 If you can have the car off the road for a couple days I can inspect, clean, test and adjust the airflow meter free of charge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpandrewschmidt Posted March 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 Thanks Boris, I'll double check everything again, i think you're right i'll just have to take things apart again. I got the Bavauto performance wires. I was told not to remove caps from the plugs for those wires. The wires click onto the plugs so I think they're on there correct. I have also tried it with the caps off and it didn't make a difference. Snap - that would be great, i'd love a second set of eyes. I'm sure once I figure it out it'll be something stupid. The car isn't my daily driver so it's just sitting in the garage right now until i can figure it out. I can come home over lunch or am generally free after about 5:30pm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted March 30, 2015 Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Im in New Berlin and unable to make it out that way because of my idiotic schedule as of late so you could mail it to me and I could mail it back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpandrewschmidt Posted April 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 Update - Ran a homemade smoke test with a compressor and paint can trick. Worked like charm. One very small vaccuum leak on the bottom of the hose that attaches to the valve cover. Took it off and it basically snapped apart it was so brittle. Ordered a new one. While waiting for that to come in I popped the valve cover and adjusted the valves. There wasn't 1 that I could get the feeler under, so they were pretty tight. I adjusted those to the best of my ability. Definitely a finky job. I don't feel like I did as good as I could have, anyway... Hose came in today and put it back on over lunch. Fired it up. Seemed to still do the same thing initially but settled down after a little bit. DME adjusting itself?? I let it idle for 5 mins before working up the courage to take it out. Drove it for 10 mins around the subdivision and a road up to 45 mph. Knock on wood it performed well. Going to put it through some more rigorous driving tonight. I did notice my idle dropped to the 800 ish rpm range, where before it was about 1100 rpm. So, I think that's a good thing too. Valves still seem to tick a bit, there's probably one or two that aren't quite right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doorman Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 Good deal brotha!!!If you could, share your homemade smoke machine pictures please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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