gilber33
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Posts posted by gilber33
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No longer need.
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5 minutes ago, jc43089 said:
If there is a leak on the suction side of the pump it will suck in air. That would be the large hose to the bottom of the reservoir from the pump.
I cranked down the banjo bolt at the pump and the hose on the bottom of the reservoir is leak free. And the hose is brand new.
If it doesn't get better after driving it, I think I'll replace the pump next. Idk what else it could be the rack is leak free.
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13 hours ago, jc43089 said:
Ahh, yea several lock to lock turns should work the air out of the system. The reservoir might need to be topped off a couple times.
Well, after lots of lock to lock turns it seems like nothing really happened. Fluid level didn't go down. I confirmed there was fluid going to the pump and after the pump. There were noticeable are bubbles coming out of the reservoir.
One thing that seemed weird is the fluid didn't get warm. I understand there wasn't any force to turning the wheels, but I would assume it'd get a little warm going through the pump.
I guess I'll drive it and see if anything happens. No leaks at the pump or anything.
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1 hour ago, jc43089 said:
I thought that sounded like exhaust leakage, strange how it can sound like a knock or tick.
For the power steering, how old is the pump? I need to rebuild mine because it is similar, just weak and once you are moving it doesn't need as much help. Mine makes a whining noise. I am going to get the rebuild kit and take it apart in class the week I teach my fluid power class about hydraulic pumps. Mine comes and goes too, sometimes it works pretty well and sometimes not hardly any assist. I wonder if the relief valve is sticking open sometimes.
I actually rebuilt it while it was. Talking to others, it sounds like the system just needs to be bled. I had it completely apart.
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12 minutes ago, jc43089 said:
After running it a while you might see a sooty looking spot where the leak is.
All the exhaust manifold bolts had maybe half a turn on them to be tight and a couple had more. The down pipes also had some 1/4 to half turns. The sound was significantly less and went away quicker.
Now, if it was an exhaust leak or the new oil getting everywhere, idk. But it was much improved. Finally had it out of the garage and washed down some of the dirty engine bay.
And as usual, question time. I put in an e36 rack, new lines, and rebuilt the PS pump, but when I'm parked, it feels like I have zero power steering. As soon as I start moving it feels normal. Is this a normal e30 behavior or is there something wrong?
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Definitely louder on the exhaust side. Easy thing to check as well.
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18 minutes ago, jc43089 said:
The oil pressure light should come on when you turn the key to run before starting the engine. If the switch is failed open or the bulb is burned out it will never come on.
I'll double check that it comes on.
Otherwise any other ideas about the noise?
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15 minutes ago, SteelBlue said:
I LOVE how this car looks. What are the wheels?
They're RS reps made by ESM. They make a lot of bbs reps and they're pretty cheap/affordable.
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21 minutes ago, Boris3 said:
If it turns out to be not valves/rockers, then maybe it's an oil pressure on startup issue? Some oil filters have drain back issues, stock Mann/Mahle are better choices. What happens with your oil pressure light on startup? Granted the light doesn't tell you much compared to an actual gauge but if it is staying on for a bit that could be an indicator. It should go off a second or two after startup.
I had a Mann filter in at first and this one now is a Bosche. So I don't think it's a filter.
Oil pressure was my thought and why I went to the thinner oil. My only hope is that there was still some thick stuff left and now that the new oil has made it's way around the block, that it will start up and sound great this morning.
I haven't looked for the oil pressure light, but I didnt see any dash lights on.
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6 minutes ago, Boris3 said:
I'm not an engine guy so others with more experience will weigh in but what method did you use to adjust your valves, and what settings did you use? The m20 even when healthy will sound a bit like a sewing machine but your does not sound right.
Using a .010 feeler gauge in between the eccentric and the valve. I guess with the engine cold I can double check them. When its warm it sounds good. Just the first couple mins of that cold start.
I think I'll readjust the valves to the slightly tighter clearance that that post says and go from there.
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So I started it up tonight after putting in the new oil; Liqui Moly 10w40 with the friction additive. Anyway, noise was still there when I started it up. See the video:
After a few minutes it was gone and sounds like this:
I did a valve adjustment when I put it back together. Thoughts??? Opinions?
Going to start it in the morning to see if it sounds any better.
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Back on the ground! Hopefully for a while this time. One of the tie rod securing nuts was frozen, so it got new tie rods. Oil is drained out and new stuff goes in tomorrow. Fixed the hood ground strap. Getting the lights finished. Pretty excited.
Now my standard question. How would I go about aligning this bumper?
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4 minutes ago, snap said:
People that post on www.bobistheoilguy.com are insane and will fight to the death about how Castrol doesnt have enough ZDDP for their 1998 Duratec V6, meanwhile an Amsoil dealer lies in wait to go in for a sale.
Stick to the owners manual unless extreme circumstances dictate otherwise (racing/heavy modifications).
This was the only photo I could find from the E30 owners manual and its hard to read, but 20w-50 is good for all but our coldest months and 15w-40 is good for all but maybe an extremely hot summer day sitting in stop and go traffic. Pick a good 40/50 weight oil. Just dont get down into the 30 weight oils
And if it wasn't for it being pretty noisy at startup, it seems the 20w50 would be fine; but the engine was pretty rattly as it warmed up for a few minutes then it was great. I'll pick up some 10w40 and see how that works.
Thanks for your help!
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3 minutes ago, GunMetalGrey said:
All oils are categorized by API standards, and that's the easiest way to determine what oil is "best" or equivalent to OE standards.
At this point in time I would be willing to bet that all oils that you can buy off the shelf are better or equivalent to what was available at the time when these motors were designed.You're probably right. Which is why part of me says I'm entirely overthinking this and go to Walmart and just get some gtx 10w40 and you'll be fine.
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Then I will definitely change the oil to something thinner.
I hate talking about oils because everyone has their own opinion and what they use. But, having not owned a car like this before, I want to make sure I'm using the right stuff.
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1 hour ago, jc43089 said:
TLDR: The ideal oil weight is thick enough to maintain oil pressure above minimum spec when the engine is idling and fully hot. Usually a quality 5w30 is not a problem unless the engine is very worn. I use 5w30 in my M50 that has almost 300k miles and I don't ever have a flicker on the oil pressure gauge. Thick fluid is hard to pump and will not circulate as well causing a lack of lubrication, even worse when the weather is getting cool.
My recommendation is 5w30, use a 10w40 if you are paranoid and don't trust modern synthetic oil. But never 20w50 no matter how much the internets say to, the noise you hear is a lack of lubrication.
And FYI oil pressure spec at idle is only around 7 PSI.
Thanks for the input. Then I am going to pick up some 10w40 Castrol GTX to put in there.
I also read a lot about people using additives as well. Any need to use something if I'm running 10w40 GTX?
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Got the coolant system bled tonight. Some hot heat in the car. Also replaced the ebrake handle and new floor mats.
One question I do have: each cold start up the engine was relatively loud, after a couple minutes it quieted down and sounded great. So I guess I'm wondering what you guys run for oil when its cooler out like this? I have Castrol 20w50 in it now per some other forums. But I did read that when it gets to these temps a 10 or 15w40 is recommended. I think I'm going to change the oil to a slightly thinner one and see if that helps.
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2 hours ago, rampelsauce said:
I took a bunch of your money, now we're friends.*
*Results not typical.
From powder coating to brunch.
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Zach did the powder coating in all these engine bays.
- jc43089 and rampelsauce
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Okay, so it started up. Took some troubleshooting because I reversed the feed and return fuel lines. It sounded kinda gross at first but once it built oil pressure it sounded really good.
Two things I am noticing right now.
1. When I blip the throttle it kind of stumbles when the RPMs come back down.
2. The temp gauge was creeping past the middle mark on the gauge after about 10 mins of idling on jack stands. It does not have an electric fan, but hasn't had one in who knows how long and it was fine. My thought is maybe the coolant system needs to be bled since it was COMPLETELY drained.
Edit: Going to try adjusting the throttle body some to address the stumble.
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26 minutes ago, YoungCR said:
I believe that is an extra maybe for autos? The car will run without it
Works for me! Thank you
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Anyone know what this plug is for behind the glove box by the ECU? Putting the interior back together and I don't see where this one should plug in.
Getting really close to starting this. Transmission is filled with fresh MTL, clutch is bled, engine has oil. The setback came when I filled it up with coolant and the thermostat cover was seeping. The part that sucked was the radiator was so full of crud on the bottom the drain valve didn't even work so I had to drain it by just removing the thermostat cover. Then I pulled the radiator and flushed it. Tons of gross stuff in there. That's back in. Tonight or tomorrow I'll fill it back up and then try starting it. The battery is charging now.
Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum
in Members BMWs
Posted
OK, I think it's the pump. For having a bunch of air in the system, the pump was not whining at all and the fluid was not foamy whatsoever. That makes me think the pump isn't working like it should be. Probably something I did because I took it apart to rebuild it, so I must have messed it up somehow.