Tkuhn

So the first order of business was to get the M52tu and that boat anchor of an auto trans out. 
 
Then came getting all the dirt and grime cleaned up, the bay will be getting all the seams stitch welded and some of the holes filled as well. Then a fresh coat of paint and the bay is pretty much done. ABS is removed and I will be installing the ChaseBays brake bias valve with my own set up of brake lines rather than using the soft lines that the kit is available with. 
 
Thats about it for now until the bay is ready for stitch welding and etc.
 
Super pleased with how well the bay cleaned up after seeing all that grease and grime originally.
SIDE NOTE: Not sure if anyone here has swapped a m54b30 into a 323 but I know I will need to convert the shell to throttle by wire or the manifold to throttle by cable. Has anyone ever had experiences with this?  ALSO whats the deal with the fuel systems here? The 323 has a feed and return line where the 330 has only a feed. Can I run the fuel rain from the m52tu and my m54b30 injectors? Or is there more to it than that? Thanks in advance if anyone has any insight!

Ok boys.. I believe I solved the problem today. I was thinking last night about when the issue occurred. This started happening about halfway though the first day of a 2 day event. Now, Friday night when I arrived we swapped the valve cover that was on the car to a spare that I had that was uncracked, the existing one was cracked. So the uncracked one was on the car for the entire event.
 
Now when i was cleaning the uncracked one the previous week I removed the baffle that is under the outlet on the VC that goes to the catch can. I didnt think anything of it considering the system had a catch can in it rather than the CCV.
With that being said my logic thought that maybe the large open gap now allowed oil being thrown around in the head to be sucked into the catch can tubes easier due to the engine vacuum being drawn through the catch can.
I made one last attempt to solve this today and re-installed the cracked valve cover that still had a baffle in it.
 
Started the car and instantly it smoked less. Drove the car a few miles and once I was back home blipped the throttle a few times and nowhere near as much smoke came out.
 
Let the car sit for 20ish minuates and started it and almost no smoke came out, and I did this multiple times throughout the night and the smoking on start up has ceased and same with when the throttle is blipped.
 
I will attach a photo of the valve cover with the baffle that I removed.
 
So for anyone that was interested in the outcome, I saved myself alot of time by not having to do valve seals. lol
 
 
 
 

Ok boys.. I believe I solved the problem today. I was thinking last night about when the issue occurred. This started happening about halfway though the first day of a 2 day event. Now, Friday night when I arrived we swapped the valve cover that was on the car to a spare that I had that was uncracked, the existing one was cracked. So the uncracked one was on the car for the entire event.
 
Now when i was cleaning the uncracked one the previous week I removed the baffle that is under the outlet on the VC that goes to the catch can. I didnt think anything of it considering the system had a catch can in it rather than the CCV.
With that being said my logic thought that maybe the large open gap now allowed oil being thrown around in the head to be sucked into the catch can tubes easier due to the engine vacuum being drawn through the catch can.
I made one last attempt to solve this today and re-installed the cracked valve cover that still had a baffle in it.
 
Started the car and instantly it smoked less. Drove the car a few miles and once I was back home blipped the throttle a few times and nowhere near as much smoke came out.
 
Let the car sit for 20ish minuates and started it and almost no smoke came out, and I did this multiple times throughout the night and the smoking on start up has ceased and same with when the throttle is blipped.
 
I will attach a photo of the valve cover with the baffle that I removed.
 
So for anyone that was interested in the outcome, I saved myself alot of time by not having to do valve seals. lol
 
 
 
 

Ok boys.. I believe I solved the problem today. I was thinking last night about when the issue occurred. This started happening about halfway though the first day of a 2 day event. Now, Friday night when I arrived we swapped the valve cover that was on the car to a spare that I had that was uncracked, the existing one was cracked. So the uncracked one was on the car for the entire event.
 
Now when i was cleaning the uncracked one the previous week I removed the baffle that is under the outlet on the VC that goes to the catch can. I didnt think anything of it considering the system had a catch can in it rather than the CCV.
With that being said my logic thought that maybe the large open gap now allowed oil being thrown around in the head to be sucked into the catch can tubes easier due to the engine vacuum being drawn through the catch can.
I made one last attempt to solve this today and re-installed the cracked valve cover that still had a baffle in it.
 
Started the car and instantly it smoked less. Drove the car a few miles and once I was back home blipped the throttle a few times and nowhere near as much smoke came out.
 
Let the car sit for 20ish minuates and started it and almost no smoke came out, and I did this multiple times throughout the night and the smoking on start up has ceased and same with when the throttle is blipped.
 
I will attach a photo of the valve cover with the baffle that I removed.
 
So for anyone that was interested in the outcome, I saved myself alot of time by not having to do valve seals. lol
 
 
 
 

Ok boys.. I believe I solved the problem today. I was thinking last night about when the issue occurred. This started happening about halfway though the first day of a 2 day event. Now, Friday night when I arrived we swapped the valve cover that was on the car to a spare that I had that was uncracked, the existing one was cracked. So the uncracked one was on the car for the entire event.
 
Now when i was cleaning the uncracked one the previous week I removed the baffle that is under the outlet on the VC that goes to the catch can. I didnt think anything of it considering the system had a catch can in it rather than the CCV.
With that being said my logic thought that maybe the large open gap now allowed oil being thrown around in the head to be sucked into the catch can tubes easier due to the engine vacuum being drawn through the catch can.
I made one last attempt to solve this today and re-installed the cracked valve cover that still had a baffle in it.
 
Started the car and instantly it smoked less. Drove the car a few miles and once I was back home blipped the throttle a few times and nowhere near as much smoke came out.
 
Let the car sit for 20ish minuates and started it and almost no smoke came out, and I did this multiple times throughout the night and the smoking on start up has ceased and same with when the throttle is blipped.
 
I will attach a photo of the valve cover with the baffle that I removed.
 
So for anyone that was interested in the outcome, I saved myself alot of time by not having to do valve seals. lol
 
 
 
 

I know it is a different engine but just for comparison.  My m50 smokes a little, Pretty sure it is ring blowby in my case because it smokes most under WOT.  The m50 has no catch can/ oil separator, it just goes from the valve cover to the intake manifold (stock) and the baffling in the valve cover is not good enough to keep oil from going with the air.  It has 275k on it so I don't feel it's abnormal.  It doesn't hang in the air like a diesel but it is a visible smoke on startup and when romping on it.  I don't keep great records but I think I add a quart every 1000-1500 miles, some is due to leaks though.  
 
Compare to a 2 stroke engine.  Assuming 25mpg, 1k miles is 40 gallons of fuel, mixed 50:1 that is 3.2 quarts of oil per 1k miles.  You aren't near that much so I wouldn't think it would cause plug fouling problems.  A little lube for the cylinders is good anyway.  
 
How's that for redneck engineering?

Not sure on swapping internal parts but you can swap in the halogen lights, no problem. They have the same main plug. 

Welcome to here! Cool builds man.

Welcome

Welcome to here

If you need to compare any part numbers check www.realoem.com

Welcome race fan!


Protip: if the crank out of the old m54b30
is in good condition you can probably sell it fairly easily for $250-300