straight6pwr
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Posts posted by straight6pwr
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bummed i missed this! need moar pictars
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59 minutes ago, gilber33 said:
I would like to find a way to make it quieter on the highway though. All of the sound deadening that was on the firewall deteriorated and I removed it. I did sound-deadening mat on the floor - but I know that's not so much noise but for vibrations.
by nature, that's gonna be a tough one. Lots of glass, not lots of mass. basically all you can do is sound deaden behind everything. inside the door skins, under the headliner, floor pans, trans tunnel, etc.
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wow great photos!
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thanks for the insight on Turo. I almost used for a trip, then backed away because it seemed like I might be renting from a mouth-breather. seems like more of an app to use for a fun car rental, rather than for necessary transportation when you are in a hurry and stressed when traveling. maybe use it for long test drive of a car you might buy.
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1 hour ago, m42b32 said:
seriously....
"trade for two saturn sl one with rod knock and the other was on fire but its not too bad a xbox 360 had the red ring of death but my buddy said he fixed it and ill promote you on my instagram and tiktok id want cash on top for all that tho"
LOL
its so true i cant tell if you copy/pasted that or just made it up.
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very awesome! he looks excited. bowfins fight like hell too, so im sure the excitement will keep him coming back for more.
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13 hours ago, YoungCR said:
Washing the carpet or touching up the die? You ended up with a great sized garage.
yup the 2.5 is nice for a little e30!
and touching up the dye, yes. but everything is out because the car is getting the original carpets (dyed black) put back in. the aftermarket carpet is not up to the quality of the rest of the car, IMO.
she is also getting new front strut mounts, new tires, oil change, and fixing little odds and ends like the fan wiring, ignition cylinder, trim touch up, etc.
i need to get a reliable SUV and the market is insane right now so hopefully the e30 market can match it. *fingers crossed
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On 9/15/2021 at 6:14 PM, GunMetalGrey said:
^That looks great sir
And we know I'm a condescending asshole who never has anything nice to say, so this is high honors. -
the e34 looks great @David_R04 and looks like you have yourself the #1 e34 mentor.
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2 hours ago, patsbimmer1 said:
The holy grail of e90 M3's! Euro GTS engine which is bumped up to 4.4l rated at 450whp. OE CFRP pieces throughout, OE CF bucket seats, OE titanium exhaust and more! These were a euro special and only 67 built!
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2012-bmw-m3-crt-lightweight/
its very sad that the holy grail of e90s has red accents thrown about the interior like a 90s honda civic who's teenage owner found a can of red spray paint in dad's garage.
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1 hour ago, YoungCR said:
RAM is basically the standard for mounting devices in semis. I have the universal x-grip with a screw in dash mount but I'm gonna try the windshield mount and get the specific iPhone cradle I need. The X-grip rubber feet need replacement after 3 years as they've worn through inside out from the metal brace but I'd guess with less nvh in a car they would last longer.
The best part is you can build a custom solution for anything with different size/length components.
thanks for the confirmation that those Xgrips work well. 3 years in a semi sounds sturdy. curious how their suction cup holds up. i use RAM mounts for my boat stuff and love it.
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what gives? they all work like crap or fall apart. i'm returning the 4th one i've tried over the last couple years. they either fall apart or cant actually hold a phone with a case securely.
windshield mount version - suction cup failed
2x vent mount version - vent mount part fell apart and stopped holding to vent. 2nd one could grab the phone tight enough.
cd player slot version - to wobbly - weight of the phone is too heavy and the whole thing shakes
i also cant use a magnet mount anymore as the phone has wireless charging.
i'm about to just buy a mount that screws into the dash or use superglue but was hoping someone might have a better version they've found that isnt as permanently destructive.
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2 hours ago, HipMF said:
I don't have anything on-topic, so here's this instead.
Bimmers in California.
very nice.
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stupid idea, maybe, but did you check your battery connections? (dropped in a new battery, right?) i forgot to tighten once and was left with car that died then had starting issues at a gas station till i figured it out it was very loose.
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I also had a failing headliner so i tackled that job at the same time. very tedious project, but doable. considering the cost to DIY is like $75 compared to 600+ for a shop, it is worth it. apparently volvo used 'environmentally friendly' glues that just dont hold up over time.
I used this ebay vendor for the headliner material. it comes shipped in a roll (important), was a close match to the grey, and was the correct size to do the headliner + sunroof panel. i ended up using two cans of 3M headliner and fabric adhesive.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/280980573545?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
this diy was great for the process of gluing on the new fabric:
this is how the old material looked as it was falling apart
to get the headliner board out you have to remove: visors, oh-shit handles, sunroof switch/dome light panel, cargo net clips, rear dome light, rear trim at the tailgate, A pillars, D pillars, front and rear seats, one half of the cargo area carpet/plastic covers/spare tire foam, seat belt retractor. you also have to pull all of the wiring that is glued to the top of the headliner off. its a stupid design, the harness connects somewhere inside the dash so there is no way to unplug it, you have to just leave it hanging.
the panel will barely (not really) squeeze through the rear tailgate. you will be bending the edges pretty harshly to get it in and out.
no pictures of the process of gluing the headliner fabric on, see the youtube DIY above. it turned out 8/10, with a couple of wrinkles and the areas where the handles go are too stretched. but in reality, no one will notice unless i mention it.
the fabric was a good match. I think it was actually nicer stuff than the original. much better texture, better cut resistance, a slight sheen.
probably the worst bit of this job was reattaching all the wires to the top of the headliner. after putting the headliner back in the car, you have to lay the wiring back across in its original position and hot glue it back into place. i used gaffer tape to hold it in place as the glue set. the wiring runs across the front windshield area, and also snakes backwards and across the center of the car to the two rear dome lights. a simple harness plug in the a pillar could have made this 1,000,000 times easier.
headliner back in place. the four cargo net clips have bolts inside so they hold it up best while you attach everything else.
and voila.
- patsbimmer1, RobZR, m42b32 and 2 others
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well after a year (since i fixed the water leak), the musty car smell remained in the v50 and i decided to bite the bullet and get the carpet completely out to dry. i thought the carpet was still wet from the original leak (there is a lot of foam underneath) but it turns out that it was still actively getting wet from:
1. The AC drain was plugged and dripping water into the cabin and
b) one of the two rear sunroof drains was also plugged and leaking.
i didnt think to take pictures of the process, but it was pretty easy. Be sure to disconnect the battery before removing the front seats for all the airbag sensors.
Remove: rear seat, front seats, center waterfall and console, 4x door sill plastic covers.
Fix: detach and blow out the drain lines with compressed air.
Test: set a sprinkler on top of your car and run it for awhile.
I definitely miss how BMW stuck to fewer sizes of fasteners. (everything was always 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 17mm) There are fasteners of all sizes so its harder to tell at a glance what your dealing with (10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17 all needed for interior work)
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5 hours ago, gilber33 said:
Has anyone had an RMS that was leaking and then stopped? Over the winter the RMS started seeping a bit. Would leave a couple drips on the floor. I've driven the car for a couple days last week. No leaks while sitting at work for the day. Thursday night it left one little spot maybe the size of a quarter on the driveway. Drove it to work on Friday and parked it in the garage. As of last night, not a single spot under it. I can see a little residue by the weep hole, but it's not dripping.
I have an appointment on Wednesday to have it replaced and now I'm thinking if I should save the $600 it was going to be and do it myself at the end of the season.
it seems within reason that the seal could have shrunk if the car was not run for months. i have never seen it with an RMS, though.
the valve covers on my s50 do this over winter storage. they shrink up in the cold, leak like a sieve when the car comes out, then are fine after some driving/idling.
i'd probably 'wait and see' being that the downside is just a couple drips of oil on the ground and nothing worse.
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gorgeous car, for sure. all the upgrades!
i bet the bringatrailer monkeys fuddled with the engine designation. it should be called an m60b44, or an m60 stroker. the m62tu suggests it has vanos, which this car wouldnt have anymore with m60 heads.
QuoteThe replacement 4.4-liter M62TUB44 V8 has reportedly been fitted with ported and polished M60 cylinder heads
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i think it was a good choice to return, considering the pitting is not repairable. had similar pitting on one my e34 calipers that ended up nearly locked up. now, the guide pins were pretty bad too, so its hard to say which was the #1 culprit, but they would have bad hard to trust as a rebuild.
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skid plate on an m20 car? that's a terrifying thought hitting something so tall you'd need a plate for that.
Hello. My name is Dan, and today I doomsday prepped
in Members BMWs
Posted
I had saved my original carpet since the aftermarket one wasnt a homerun. i dyed them to black from gray with SEM product. turned out great, carpet still nice and soft. the color is darker than the camera makes it out to be.
pics of clean rust free floor pan for reference
the car had a bit of a squeak squeak from the front of the engine, diagnosed it as bad bearings. replaced the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley. sadly the radiator had to come out for clearance to remove the idler bolt which is like 6" long
i had some binding of my front coilover springs, causing creaks and spring binding sounds as well as some bump steer. the top pillow-ball style bearings were a little worse for wear and i also discovered that this vintage of coilovers do not have the upgraded bearing style top spring mounts so i upgraded and replaced.
note the old top mount is all greasy because i pumped a bunch of grease in the bearing when confirming my diagnosis