jc43089 Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 It's always interesting who you find that is into BMW's, there are some quite unexpected ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doorman Posted January 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 Busted out the Harbor Freight DA!! Did a test panel on the hood. Looked good so I started to go at the drivers side for a bit. Don't know how well it's showing up in the pictures but in person it's nice!! Yellow pad Meg's ultimate compound Speed 4 I may have to wet sand a bit on the leading edge. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted January 24, 2015 Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 Nice results, it is amazing what a little work can bring out in some old paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael1972 Posted January 24, 2015 Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 What is a harbour freight DA exactly? My e30's paint is definetly in need of some TLC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doorman Posted January 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 What is a harbour freight DA exactly? My e30's paint is definetly in need of some TLC.http://m.harborfreight.com/6-in-57-amp-heavy-duty-dual-action-variable-speed-polisher-69924.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doorman Posted January 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 Some more detailing progress. I only get a couple hours here and there to give her some love. Passenger side Clay bar Compounded Poilshed Waxed 50/50 of the roof Upper part (drivers side) untouched Lower (passenger side) Clay Compound Etcetera Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 This piece here There are 2 of these for the sheetmetal shift carrier mount. Did you remove these for the alum. carrier? I have an early g260 that I am using in my car now. I havent looked too far into whether I need to remove these or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 From the reading I have done, if you swap from the sheet metal carrier to the aluminum style you still need to put a bolt with some sealant in the 2 holes on the back of the transmission or it will leak out of them. The late ones are blind holes so a plug isn't necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 I remember reading long ago that if the bolt is too long it will interfere with the internals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doorman Posted January 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 This piece hereThere are 2 of these for the sheetmetal shift carrier mount. Did you remove these for the alum. carrier? I have an early g260 that I am using in my car now. I havent looked too far into whether I need to remove these or not.I stayed with the sheet metal carrier. The bolts are 2 different lengths, keep that in mind. I have also read they need to be reinstalled when changing to the aluminum carrier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doorman Posted February 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Front suspension overhaul kit from ECS arrived today!!Damn heavy box too!Got the kit with tie rods and upper strut mounts also. Grabbed some trans mounts because the old ones are mushy. Any pointers on the suspension stuff??Looks pretty cut and dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Should be pretty straightforward. For the lollipops I lube with dishsoap to get them on the rear of the control arm. You are supposed to install quickly and set the car down so they "glue" themselves in place with no twisting at ride height. The old ones should pull off with a a 3 jaw puller. Sent from my potato phone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doorman Posted February 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Drivers side out!!! Took me about an hour and a half including jacking up the car, jack stands, both tires off etc. daughter is napping and wife's at work. I may save the other side for when she gets home......she says she wants to help!! Used my harbor freight ball joint tool for the tie rod and control arm joints. The 3' extension and 4 wacks with a hammer took care of the inner joint. All joints are "mushy" and easily moveable by hand. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk jc43089 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Very cool, how do you plan on installing the control arms into the new bushings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doorman Posted February 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Very cool, how do you plan on installing the control arms into the new bushings?I'll use some threaded rod and some angle iron and a 4" square plate with a hole in it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Right on, thats how I did it. I recommend greasing the threads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 You are talking about the lollipops right? I mount the control arm to the car then with dishsoap they go right on, it is tight but can be done by hand. Remember that they need to go on and be lubricated until the cars weight is on the suspension. Sent from my potato phone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HipMF Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 I clamped the lolipop in a vice and used dishsoap and water solution (probably close to 50/50 ratio) and then pushed the arm into it. I just eye-balled the angle, so it probably wasn't optimal. It wasn't easy or fun, so make sure you put them on the right way the first time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doorman Posted February 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 All new parts are on the car!!!I'll get everything torqued up tomorrow. A couple issues. Broke a stud in the u bracket that the sway bar link bolts too. I'll grind it off tomorrow and replace the bolt. Tie rod ends have approx 1" too much thread on them. I'll grab a nut from Lowes or Ace tomorrow and thread it on then cut the extra threads off. I didn't replace the inner part because it has no play and looks better quality then the ones from ECS. Boots are perfect as well. A bit of dish soap and I pushed and twisted a bit to get the lollipops on the control arms. What does everyone use to torque the inner control arm nuts? Crows foot?It's the one that's up above the subframe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 Lots of patience with an open end wrench if I recall correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doorman Posted February 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 Lots of patience with an open end wrench if I recall correctly.Did you torque it to spec or just tighten the shit out of it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 The drivers side wasnt an issue but on the passenger side I had two different 22mm wrenches and took turns with each one/whichever one fit without interfering. Turn it a few degrees, then use the other one. Quite tedious Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 No torque wrench, just the calibrated elbow, It isn't super critical like headbolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doorman Posted February 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 The drivers side wasnt an issue but on the passenger side I had two different 22mm wrenches and took turns with each one/whichever one fit without interfering. Turn it a few degrees, then use the other one. Quite tediousThat was the worst one to get off. I'll take both of your guys advise and crank them down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyhundley Posted February 9, 2015 Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 I cut a 22mm wrench in half and used a another box wrench and piggy backed it. Those bolts are never fun! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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