gilber33
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Posts posted by gilber33
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I’ve been daily driving the e30 for a couple months now. Other than one scare when it wouldn’t start at work it’s been great! Thought the starter failed after I got to work one day but it was actually the engine to frame ground. I assume the starter is grounded to the engine block? Anywho.
Anywho, here’s some neat pictures from cruising around the area last night.
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8 hours ago, SteelBlue said:
The E90 platform has never really crossed my mind as one that I would seriously consider getting into until I’ve started to live with this car. I love the way it looks inside and out, the way it drives, the size of it, etc.
I thought I’d always be a slow boy in the old car, but this is really trying me in terms of my future involvement with the E30. I want my E30 to be a forever car, but it’s hard to ignore the value it holds and the risks involved with driving it, both safety wise and insurance payout if it were ever totaled(I know I could get hagerty or some other policy to insure it for its value).
It really hit me driving home from RA on Friday in the E30, and then the following day in the E90. Some of the modern creature comforts and general engineering improvements are nice to be in. Because it’s old, I’m also a little more constricted in terms of how and when I am using it, but that’s my own issue(even though it just had a significant amount of maintenance done).
Interesting perspective. The thought of whether the e30 stays in my garage forever has crossed my mind a few times lately. Mostly because of safety. I know my girls have been in the e30 numerous times, but I’m always worried about what would happen if we got in an accident with that car - either by myself or with them in the car. Idk.
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39 minutes ago, SteelBlue said:
Car made the 3 hour drive up north without issue. This car is so good, it’s making me reconsider what my aspirations are for cars in the future.
Can you elaborate on that?
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On 6/2/2022 at 8:00 PM, wasnt m3 said:
Having owned an n52 e83 for a decent amount of time, I will say it was a fantastic car. No major issues until 200k, when the transfer case started making funny sounds and I upgraded to an f15 X5 35i with the n55. That said, I can't imagine the e83 having kids...my e46 touring had more space. I'd go for the f25 in 6 cyl version if those were the only 2 options. If open to it, the x5 in either e70 or f15 might be a better fit. FYI, the e70 and f15 are identical, chassis wise.
How reliable are the e70 X5 35i engines?
I'm really drawn to the Audi Q5 of this same era, and honestly is my first choice, but the early engines have timing chain failures and really bad oil consumption, and it seems like each engine following that has similar issues. I don't mind replacing something that is a known failure, but oil consumption isn't an easy fix.
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On 6/2/2022 at 8:05 PM, wasnt m3 said:
Tight fit with the car seats! Was nice re-meeting you, glad you made it!
Thanks! And likewise. 👍🏻
On 6/2/2022 at 1:06 PM, YoungCR said:Didn't get a chance to meet you but your girls were very well behaved! They enjoyed seeing our puppy haha. Paint job looks great man, overall the car has come a long way since I last saw it 4+ years ago.
Thank you! And thanks for giving them something to occupy their time with. Haha. They actually seem to enjoy doing these things. My middle one said to me “I’m excited to see race cars! Regular cars? Nope. Just race cars.”
I should really make the time to do one of the more personal get togethers so I can really put names to faces. In college my friend and his close group of VW/Audi friends would do dollar burgers at Bar Louie every week. It was neat to be a part of that.
Title of the thread will need to be updated. Said farewell to the 850 today. Going to a cool Volvo guy who’s buying it for his daughters to drive. It was kinda sad, but I felt a huge relief knowing I only had one “project” car. For the first time in a few months I felt like I wasn’t thinking about what needed to be done on a car in the back of my mind.
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I’m working on getting rid of stuff I don’t need. Or stuff I don’t want to store to be used at some point in the future.
First up:
18sf of sound deadening, 3.5sf of heat shield, and 12 sf of under hood thermal acoustic lining. $100 for all of it. I don’t remember what the new price is, but I know this is a lot less.
Anyone want a cheap but decent subwoofer and amp? $100 for the pair.
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Interesting. Thanks for the input! This wouldn’t be the primary child carrier. My wife has an Atlas with a 3rd row and we use that mainly. This would be occasional kids and mostly my daily.
But I can see your point. I remember when I had my e46 wagon for a bit the rear seat was incredible tight with just two seats.
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Hey guys. I tried doing some of my own research but didn't have great luck finding the type of information I wanted. I'm going to wrap up the 850R and sell it. The e30 is at a point where I don't want two "projects" and I'd really like to scale back everything car related. So once the R is gone the plan is to find a small SUV - between a Q5 and X3.
What are the main selling points between the e83 and f25? I know the obvious ones between the look and feel, but mechanically, are the f25's still easy to work on? I know there are some engines/years to avoid with timing chain guides, but are there other huge red flags with any other trims?
Hoping to hear some of those that might have had first hand epxerience with them or generally know way more than I do about those engines and general ease of working on them.
Thanks!
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Didn’t take any pics of the e30 at the picnic. But in case I missed you, I was the one with 3 car seats in the back!
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12 hours ago, P_Roloff said:
Looks awesome! Details on the underseat sub?
Depending on how I feel about the 3.73 that I’m about to put into my car, I would maybe swap with you if yours is also a LSD. I’m not sure if it’ll lose a noticeable amount of pep with also going to a manual, but if I find I want something shorter I’d maybe entertain a trade. I try to do more backroad driving anyways, so ~3500-3600 on the interstate doesn’t bother me. Can’t hear the engine anyways over all the wind noise 😂.
We could also start with you driving my car once it’s done for you to get a rough feel of the difference. There’s some weight penalty on mine for sure but I bet it’ll be enough to make a rough call.
It’s just the Sound Ordinance low profile powered sub from crutchfield. It’s their house brand, for the price, it’s great.
I would love to drive it and see how the 3.73 feels. I don’t do a lot of freeway driving but when I’m doing 50 hours of freeway driving for the rally this year, some taller gears would be nice. Mine is a LSD, so a straight I think could work if that’s what we’re both ultimately interested in. 👍🏻
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Just driving it an enjoying it.
As soon as the 850 is done, I have a small to-do list for it:
- Remove amp and subwoofer and put back in the "underseat" powered subwoofer.
- O2 sensor.
- Investigate intermittent clunk from rear. I believe it's tied to the sway bars. Either the mounts or the unsealed heim joints on the aftermarket sway bar endlinks.
That's really about it right now.
Took the car to Green Bay and back on Wednseday and it did great. It was wet and humid and then cool at night and the headlights stayed completely dry the whole time.
My only complaint is the car sitting at 3500 RPM while doing 70 on the highway with the 4.10 diff. But as I looked more into the 3.73, it sits at about the same if I were to go 80. I also read of a significant difference in feel of the car between the two, with the 4.10 being quite a bit snappier. I mean, it makes sense, I just didn't realize it would be as noticeable as others describe.
So, I will probably save $1,000 and just go 10mph slower.
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Anyone have one? Drive to Green Bay today doing 70 with the tach at 3500. Thinking I’d like to swap out the 4.1 for a 3.73.
Thanks!
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Hoping for some insight to better understand something. On my way to work this morning I did a WOT pull through most of the gears. When I came to a stop sign the idle was rough - rpm flucuating, the MPG needling swinging back and forth, the exhaust sounded a little lumpy. I started driving again and by the next stop sign a few miles later it was totally fine. Smooth idle, engine was smooth, etc. Got to work, turned it off and on a couple times and all was good. Listened to it idling with the hood up and reved it a few times. Sounded totally normal.
What could have caused that? I will mention that a couple weeks ago the battery had died completely (left the doors and trunk open) and this is my first "hard" pull after getting the battery charged up and driving it again. I remember with my Volvo 740 wagon that also has a Bosch motronic system that after disconnecting the battery, it would usually take some time for the ECU to recalibrate. Is this perhaps the case here?
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This humid af weather and haven’t charged the AC yet. But still thoroughly enjoying having the car on the road right now.
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1 hour ago, m42b32 said:
How's the condition of the map pockets/door pulls? I might be interested in those if you still have them
They're all in good shape! They were breifly lost in the mail and I ordered new ones and then they showed up randomly one day.
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Annual first drive to work picture.
Cruise control works. I took the actuator apart and did a better job adjusting the cable. I think there was too much slack inside the actuator before.
850R is up on the lift for engine mounts, turbo rebuild, some coolant lines, and hopefully if all goes smoothed, pull the dash and fix the mounts and replace the evaporator.
Not good for boost.
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7 hours ago, REKIII said:
2 is all we could handle, any more and they would out number us. I'm not sure how you guys with 3+ survive.
Eh. I felt going from 1 to 2 was a bigger transition than going from 2 to 3.
Everything works itself out and you adapt. Our plan is to have one more. And when that happens, we'll figure it out. It's definitely easier with two them able to walk longer distances, so when we walk downtown the two older ones can walk or ride scooters or something.
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3 little girls here. Haven’t read a baby book yet.
My unsolicited advice: make it up as you go. They’re going to do whatever they want when they want and any attempt to follow schedules and routines that Instagram moms swear by will only result in unnecessary stress and hell when your baby decides to continue being a baby and doesn’t give a shit about your schedule.
All the blogs and books are bullshit.
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Still trying to figure this out. It’s not the cruise control stalk lever. My only lead right now is a potential voltage issue. These are the voltage readings i did this morning:
The violet wire feeds fuses 4,5,6,12 and fuse 6 feeds the brake switch.
Is a .5v drop through the ignition switch normal? I’m going to replace the brake switch and clean the brake circuits grounds under the rear seat, but still, is a small voltage drop like that something to expect from the ignition switch? The diagnosis from e30zone says that green/red wire should be feeding the ECU box with 12+ volts when the brake pedal is pressed.
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Confirmed last night that the speed signal wire is plugged in behind the cluster. Confirmed the brake switch and clutch switch are good.
I went to look more into why the CC connector wasn't getting 12v from the brake switch. This morning I confirmed that the brake switch on the pedal and on the accessory bank of connectors (i don't know what to call it) below are both getting 12v with key in pos2. I don't know why that circuit calls out R as ABS, because R & S get their signals from the brake switch - one is constant and one is the switched wire.
After pressing the brake pedal, the switched side on the brake switch is 11.5v, but the at the pin on the accessory connector it's almost a full volt lower around 10.8. Which lines up with the readings I was getting at the CC ecu connector. Why would there be that much of a drop?
I can't find any good information on what it means that for the CC to engage, Pin 9 (which is from the brake switch) need to sense ground from the tail lights. Does that mean pin 9 is grounded through the tail lights? I'm not really sure how to check that.
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12 hours ago, P_Roloff said:
Might be worth checking the gauge cluster if you had it out, the speed sensor wire to the back of it can get loose/disconnected and that stops the cruise working. Mine was non-functional for years until I checked, that’s all that was keeping it from working.
I vividly remember pluggint that in, but I plan to check continuity of all the wires going to the cruise control ecu and will double check that one.
I ordered a new (used) steering column stalk. I didn't know that the late model cruise control system had an accel and decel feature becuase mine never did that. I also banged the lever really good a few times when taking the dash in and out. I'm hoping that is the cause of my issues.
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Question time. Tonight I realized my cruise control is not working. It was working completely fine before everything this winter. The only thing I did to the cruise control system was replace the cable from the actuator to the throttle body.
I followed this diagnosis list:
1. low resistance between pin 9 and ground (both the ground on the connector and the chassis)
2. switch the meter to volts and while I do get power, I’m getting about 11.2v between pin 9 and earth while the battery is at 12.5v
3. connect a bulb between pin 1 and 24. This worked and the bulb turned on.
I guess I’m wondering what else I can check? I think it’s weird I’m not getting full voltage in #2.
Can somsone who's better at wiring break this down for me:
What does that mean and is there a way to test that?
Helmut the e21
in Members BMWs
Posted
It certainly is. I'm really annoyed that I spent the time and money building one when I have one.