P_Roloff
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Posts posted by P_Roloff
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2 hours ago, m42b32 said:
Nick pick up on the road bike! A pad swap will probably make a huge difference in braking, kool stops have been my go to for rim brakes.
I'd say the roscoe 8 would be a great hardtail, solid component set and good geometry. One of those would be more than capable enough for just about every trail in the area. I have Sram eagle drivetrains on both of my MTBs (GX on the trail bike, NX on the fat bike) and have zero complaints, they are a little fiddly to set up once dialed in I think it works really well. Since basically every bike shop around here is a trek dealer you could definitely go take a test ride on one and see how you like it! They might even do demos where you could take one out to a trail.
Thanks!
Yep, putting my order in today. My first real ride over the weekend exposed how not great they were. No panic stops needed but I don’t want to have to rely on them as they currently sit.
That’s kinda what I’m thinking, it’ll be a good chassis to grow into as far as ability while still keeping it reasonable as far as price. Were your eagle setups problematic out of the box or is it more of a wear over time issue that they can be fiddly with?
I stopped at wheel and sprocket the other day and they said they can order one in for me anytime when I want to test ride, so once the e28 is running and ready to get gone I’ll have them bring one in.
I did see a 2020 X-Caliber 8 for $800 on marketplace this morning though, which is tempting 😂 I think I want the Roscoe geometry though
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Refinished the headlights this weekend!
Went with a box kit instead of the 2k clear this time, I decided to see how long it lasts and make a decision from there. Initial impressions are that it turned out great though!
Before:
After:
I will note, I wet sanded from 1200 up to 3500 grit on the passenger side light instead of starting at 2400 on the drivers side, and it turned out way better. Highly recommend getting some extra paper in coarser grits if you use a kit like this, it really makes it turn out much nicer.
Reslly cleaned up the front end look, I love the way this car looks when it’s clean.
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2 hours ago, SteelBlue said:
Top mounts were done with the rest of the suspension. I’m going to get the 4 piece kit that FCP sell. Did you have ramps you were able to set the car on while you did the final torquing of the bushings? That’s honestly the biggest challenge is being able to get the car under load while still being able to torque them.
I have ramps, but my torque wrench would’ve been wayyyyy too long for doing it under the car. I ended up jacking up via the brake rotor hat with a lock of wood between it and the jack (not ideal, but it worked). I figured if it’s off slightly and they wear out prematurely, I have the lifetime replacement 🤷♂️.
Let me know how the upper control arms go, I didn’t do those just for the sake of time and really should get those finished too.
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Reviving this thread!
Finally replaced my old Trek 3700 hybrid (ridden hard and like 4 sizes too small) with a still slightly small 2009 Trek 1.2. I’ve wanted a road bike for awhile now for the rail trails around here, and combined with a really nice 4-bike Thule hitch mount carrier (FB marketplace score for $80), I’m now set to get some miles done. For $350 for the bike, I’m pretty happy. Shifts smooth, rides nicely, really clean for the age, it seems well taken care of and hard to beat for the cost. Even has a carbon front fork!
Brakes kinda suck though (common complaint when it was new) so I’ll probably toss some more aggressive pads on it and see what that does. I put Kool Stop’s on the afrementioned hybrid and it went from mushy to tossing me over the bars if I wasn’t careful, so we’ll see if that does it.
I mentioned it elsewhere, but I’m also thinking I’m going to sell the e28 (zero time to use it or wrench on it) and dump the funds into a hardtail MTB, likely a Trek Roscoe 8. I’d like to go new on that to save the hassle of buying someone’s abused or worn out stuff. If anyone has any alternative recs to that bike, I’m all ears. I’m definitely a noob when it comes to bikes but I’d love to learn more.
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2 hours ago, SteelBlue said:
Weirdly on similar paths between this car and mine.
I am planning on doing the control arms up front as well as I am getting some creaking when I am turning at low speeds. I also would like to do fluid film this year as well, have to figure out which one to go with. Ive heard good things about Liqui Moly's but don't know how readily available it is over here.
I also just bought a Specialized Rockhopper. Is this the Marlin or a different model? Guessing it's different looking at the frame and the drop seat. I was back and forth between the Marlin and the Rockhopper.
I had a friend do the NH oil undercoating and really like it, but it requires a spray gun (which isn’t the end of the world but does complicate things). I haven’t done a ton of research yet but I trust liqui moly’s stuff, we’ll see what I find when I enter that internet rabbit hole.
Creaking, interesting. If it’s not control arm bushings, maybe top mounts?
That one is a Trek Roscoe (the 8 in particular), I figured I’d spring a little and get a step up. I’ve never bought a new bike and really want something I don’t need to tinker with and will do what I need out of the box, and the Roscoe seems to fit the bill and be a good bike to grow into as I MTB more. I’m picking up a road bike tonight as well, going to replace my old hybrid with two more dedicated bikes.
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127,254
M3 control arms are installed! This car has been a joy to work on so far with how clean it is underneath. I really should fluid film it this year to keep it that way…
Found that the drivers side was leaking fluid from the bushing (that’s an odd sentence, brought to you by none other than German engineers), and both driver and passenger side had some cracking/were soft. Ball joints still seemed tight.
The first side took a little over an hour by the time I figured out where all the screws were on the fender liner and that the wheel had to be pointing straight ahead for the bushing side to install nicely. The second side took maybe 40 minutes tops. An easy job overall, and WELL worth the effort.
Almost completely solved the shudder under braking (what’s left is barely noticeable and is likely actually from the brakes themselves, or maybe another bad bushing), quieted down the ride, smoothed out the ride, and made the thing handle like a go-kart. Seriously, a car like this has no right to feel as planted and flat as this does. Night and day in the corners, highly recommend doing it if your bushings are getting old. I’d guess it’s a combo of the stiffer m3 bushings and just not having roached ones, but hey, either way I’m not complaining.
PS flush up next, along with that diff oil change and the headlight restoration. Beyond that, I found the drivers side strut is leaking so those are definitely due for replacement, along with the front upper control arms. I’d like to do rear subframe inserts before digging into rear bushings, there’s so many damned arms and linkages back there.
I’m also planning on subtracting the e28 from the fleet as soon as it’s running, and adding this…
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127,140
Oil change, liqui-moly 5W-30 (satisfies BMW LL01)
Working on the headlight sanding/respray, control arms, and possibly the PS flush this week. Really looking to get the braking vibration cleared up before a few long trips this summer. Fingers crossed!
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On 6/2/2023 at 3:47 PM, YoungCR said:
I saw an XM yesterday, didn’t know what it was at first but wasn’t about the design at all.
besides the lip under the rear window that is also an ugly carry over from the SUV’s I like this as well. I think the tail lights and mid section of the rear have some Z8 influence.
I would be surprised if we got it too but seems like it’s different enough from the Supra coupe that it could be marketed at a higher price point.
The XM is atrocious. If you wanted that kind of styling, why wouldn’t you buy a Urus or something instead? That’s who I think they’re chasing, the RSQ8 (which I think looks way better still), Urus, big flabby ostentatious SUV market.
Give me as much Z8 influence as possible 😂 I think they might have a slot to market it as more of a GT alternative to the Supra sports car; soften it up, make it sporty but long distance comfy and be the perfect stylish 2 person touring car. I don’t think a sports car like that makes sense with the two series/M2 and Supra already existing. I think it’s not likely it ever sees production either way though.
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Finally got the VANOS unit installed and the car buttoned back up. Decided to forgo the anti rattle kit and just do seals because it wasn’t making noise and I just wanted the car back together. Idled rough on the first start, but then shut it off and restarted and was much better. Powerband is now smooth again without the rubber band effect when VANOS kicks in, yo! and overall drivability is way, way better. Hoping to see some MPG improvements too!
Going to start driving this to keep miles off the E91, this still needs some things here and there but mostly minor stuff. Rear suspension work will probably continue to get put off, but 🤷♂️
- m42b32 and KaiserRolls
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I like it. Is it perfect? No. I think it’s a far better brand of offbeat than the stuff they’ve been pushing lately. Hopefully this means that some restrained cars will make it through the pipeline instead of all these gaudy ass SUV’s.
Also, a B58 clownshoe? Sign me up!
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23 hours ago, SteelBlue said:
Pulling the old one off the radiator is also a major pain. It must have taken me 20 minutes of gently prying on the connector portion of it with a screw driver and just rocking it back and for in each direction by hand. I cut it in half to get a better grasp on it as the part that connects by the oil filter housing came off without issue.
I’m liking the ease of working on this car so far except for the cooling system, which seems to be complicated and fragile for no reason. I’d very much like to go back to rubber hose and hose clamps, but I suppose that’s the way of the world.
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That coolant hose is a bitch. Blew out on me when test driving my wagon, and I recently bumped it while doing the angel eyes of all things and it bent enough to burp past the o ring in the line a little. It’s been fine since so it seems to have not damaged anything, but man is it fragile. It made a hell of a cloud when it cracked, that’s for sure 😂
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18 hours ago, m42b32 said:
I'm stoked to see this car getting the love it deserves!
I like this.
I need to not get too far ahead of myself and actually finish the e30 manual swap, but I feel like it’s a good prep for one on this. I was shocked at how well laid out everything was once the belly pan came off, I think mechanically the swap shouldn’t be bad at all. The DME coding looks like a challenge, but I’ll figure it out.
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126,006
Summer mode engaged!
Installed the only aesthetic mod I had planned, LED angel eyes. I didn’t like how the original halogen ones didn’t match the xenon low beams or the license plate/under door courtesy lights, I’m liking the LED much better. Not perfect in terms of color but pretty close and for the price I’m happy.
Installed a new cupholder trim piece, only like $20 from FCP. Worth it.
Headlight 2K clear is on the way, that’s next on the list. I also have the M3 arms sitting in a box along with 3 cans of Pentosin, as well as the stuff for the diff service. Going to check the front left wheel bearing while I’m in there for the arms, that’s the only corner that is warmer than the others but it doesn’t behave quite like a dragging caliper. Oil arrived as well. Just need to get the e34 VANOS buttoned up so I have something to drive if stuff goes sideways, then the e91 will get its attention.
Been loving this so far though! Utility is unbeatable, the n52 w/ M performance exhaust is a peach and sounds perfect, and the look speaks for itself. However, if anyone ever sees a n52 manual parts car, please let me know…
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Got underneath and found the transmission output seal(s) were toast (or so I thought). Fresh fluid was covering everything pretty heavily and had leaked enough that it made its way to the front of the trans tunnel from the spray and seepage. Trans was only down a quarter quart or so, so not thinking it did any damage but definitely had lost measureabke fluid amounts.
New output seal went on pretty easy, and found when pulling it that the output nut was finger tight. No bueno. Output flange came off with only a mild yank. I’m guessing most of the leakage was from that, but decided to do the seals anyways while I was there. I drove a new shift shaft seal over the old one (nearly impossible to pull the old one out without the transmission out of the car) and was not able to get it fully seated but it only protrudes slightly and would be pretty easy to pull to replace if needed now. It’s now double sealed so should be OK.
Fixed the windshield wiper rattle too! Turns out the bushings were fine; the rubber grommet between the linkage and body had deteriorated and was letting it knock around. Tightened the nut after removing the old grommet and the issue is gone.
Finally getting to the VCG and VANOS job as well. Wasn’t able to get the flywheel lock pin through the block hole after an hour of trying, so I used the wheel hanger pin from the factory toolkit to make sure the hole is right where it needs to be and double checked off the crank hub timing marks. The cam lock blocks will also be used so I think I’ll be fine. I’m certainly not the only one to do it like this, anyon with a LTW flywheel doesn’t even have the alignment hole so they have to do it this way.
Got the VC off without issue, and in the process realized the oil leakage was far worse than I thought. I knew about the oil in the spark plug holes, but the rest of it was a bit excessive. I’ll clean up the VC when it’s off and the block a little more once all the new stuff is back on so I don’t get crud in the engine.
Looks pretty clean in there overall! Not bad for 130k and nearly 30 years. A bit odd that the rear cylinder cam lobes look darker, but nothing is grooved or scored at all so I’m not worried about it. The original M20 cam was far worse when I replaced that and it still was fine.
Going to pull the VANOS unit next week, rebuild with seals and an anti rattle kit as a preventative measure, and toss it all back in. This car is finally coming back together and getting some much needed love!
- Jdesign and KaiserRolls
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Actually, I do! Pretty sure I have a complete passenger sport cloth seat that’s pretty ratty sitting in my storage unit. I’ll check for you tonight.
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5 hours ago, SteelBlue said:
Did this ice age trail plate ever come out? It looks pretty sweet
I don’t believe so. Last I heard it was originally supposed to release in March but got pushed back a month or two. I’d bet it’ll release in the next month.
I think I’m going to get one for the e91. I like the RA plate but the IAT one is just funky and different.
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124,073
Drained and refilled transmission using Liqui-Moly Top Tec 1800 (Dexron 6), replaced the trans filter and gasket, and all new hardware. I forgot to take photos because I suck at forums.
Old fluid was definitely very dark and this was definitely the factory fill, but better late than never I suppose. From some research, 130-150k is getting to the range of where it might not be worth it to risk, but the number of success stories with 120-130k gave me some confidence. I wasn’t getting trans slip before doing it but it was starting to shift a little jerkier when cold so I wanted to try to get ahead of any issues before it was too late. Magnet had metal on it but didn’t seem much worse than the magnets I’ve seen on cars with it changed at 60-80k; it seems that a lot of that debris is from initial break-in.
Don’t want to jump the gun, but it definitely seems to shift smoother now. We’ll see how it goes the next few days and I’ll report back.
Going to order power steering fluid to do a flush there, change out the diff oil, and probably replace the front tension arms with M3 parts as I’m sure they’re toasted by now. I also have a brake vibration that was worsened lately so diagnosing that with a temp gun to see if one is hanging or has some nasty deposits is also on the list.
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Car had a mystery fluid underneath it the other day, but the slick is now gone. Thinking brake fluid since it seemed to disappear after the rain. Brakes are still strong, so I’m guessing it’s clutch hydraulics. The clutch disengagement/shift feel has slowly been getting worse and I wonder if I have a slow leak at the slave or something. Could also be leakage from the trans itself, the output needs to be replaced but was not leaking enough to visibly drip on last inspection.
Either way, I’ll get it up on ramps and check it out. Going to take care of the wiper linkage bushings, vacuum leak test, and maybe the VANOS seal/VCG while it’s laid up. Sunroof seal or drain line is leaking now too so that’ll be addressed as well.
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21 minutes ago, KaiserRolls said:
Popped the front main in, installed the damper (still need to torque that, which basically means set the impact to max and send it home) engine is on the subframe now, m20 FW on with arp hardware, new spec clutch/pressure plate,TOB/PB, clutch pivot pin with grease fitting, trans put on, new control arms, bushings, etc etc
@Rekpointis stopping by to help toss this thing in
side note, this hikfab plate has probably saved me from purchasing around 70 oil pans
it did pick up a slight bend, but I’m going to toss it in the press to see if I can’t straighten it back out a bit
also, say no to brass pivot pins lol. This maybe had like 4k miles on it - was previously running a south bend stg3 street clutch/pp
What’s the one on the left made out of? Is that a grease zerk that I see on it?
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10 hours ago, m42b32 said:
Things I've done to the car since my last update... nothing!
While I've enjoyed having a running car that I can drive any time I want, there's been some issues needing addressing and I've started to plan to improve a number of things. One thing I've noticed is that the pressures in the intake manifold were constantly negative and I don't have time for all that negativity. In a random late night marketplace search I came across this lovely chunk of positivity for a pretty good deal...
It'll be a while until I dig in and start fitting this as I want to finish my garage improvements first but it should make for a pretty fun project later this year(s).
That is awesome. I figured this post would be about the headers and I was pleasantly surprised! We’re down on FI e30s right now so this should reset the balance quite nicely
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2011 328i Longroof - The Saga Continues
in Members BMWs
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129,393
Power steering fluid flush completed. I initially tried to flush by disconnecting the return line and directing into a catch bottle, capping the reservoir nipple, and filling as I turn the wheel back and forth, but stopped when I couldn’t get the hose off of the reservoir. It was stuck on there pretty good and I didn’t feel like cracking the reservoir wrestling with it.
I’ll try that method again when I buy a replacement reservoir; until then, I just drained and refilled the reservoir 6ish times with a quick drive around and some lock to lock turns in between each. It took the fluid from “used motor oil” to “slightly dirty green pentosin” so I’ll call it a win. Not going to let perfect get in the way of improvement. I have a spare liter still so I’ll probably burn that at the next oil change with a few more drain and fills.