So Benjamin (gunmetalgray) and I decided to remove the 4.10 LSD from my rolled 318is. We had everything you could ever want to do the job right; tools, ambition, stunning good looks, a faithful dog, and slightly overcast skies with a nice wind.
Tools used:
2- 19mm socket
2- 1/2" socket wrench
2- breaker bars
1- 1970's Mustang Bobcat
1- Milwaukee Sawzall
To start, we had to drag the disgusting wreck of a car up to the parking pad. All went well.
Then, we jacked that baby up and used cinder blocks as jack stands. All went well.
Then, we started to remove various nuts, bolts, and tetanus (aka rust) covered heat shields. All went well.
Then, shit got real tricky. To remove the differential, one must remove 2 bolts located on top of the diff, and two on the side that mount it to the rear subframe. In order to remove those bolts, we decided to use the sawzall to cut the sway bar end links in half so it would be easier to access the bolts. No pics of that, but trust me, all went well.
After loosening the bolts mentioned above, we set out to remove the driveshaft from the differential. This looked awfully hard, so we decided to cut the driveshaft in half approximately 3" behind the rear subframe.
After making 3 very poor cuts the driveshaft was still in one piece, and the differential was still stuck in place. To remove it, we had the brilliant idea of strapping the differential to the bobcat and simply pulling it out backwards. All went better than expected.
Question
Ryan...
So Benjamin (gunmetalgray) and I decided to remove the 4.10 LSD from my rolled 318is. We had everything you could ever want to do the job right; tools, ambition, stunning good looks, a faithful dog, and slightly overcast skies with a nice wind.
Tools used:
2- 19mm socket
2- 1/2" socket wrench
2- breaker bars
1- 1970's Mustang Bobcat
1- Milwaukee Sawzall
To start, we had to drag the disgusting wreck of a car up to the parking pad. All went well.
Then, we jacked that baby up and used cinder blocks as jack stands. All went well.
Then, we started to remove various nuts, bolts, and tetanus (aka rust) covered heat shields. All went well.
Then, shit got real tricky. To remove the differential, one must remove 2 bolts located on top of the diff, and two on the side that mount it to the rear subframe. In order to remove those bolts, we decided to use the sawzall to cut the sway bar end links in half so it would be easier to access the bolts. No pics of that, but trust me, all went well.
After loosening the bolts mentioned above, we set out to remove the driveshaft from the differential. This looked awfully hard, so we decided to cut the driveshaft in half approximately 3" behind the rear subframe.
http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=286030&d=1311281348
After making 3 very poor cuts the driveshaft was still in one piece, and the differential was still stuck in place. To remove it, we had the brilliant idea of strapping the differential to the bobcat and simply pulling it out backwards. All went better than expected.
http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=286029&d=1311281348
After a little finagling around with the halfshafts the diff decided to pop out. Sweet.
http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=286032&d=1311281348
We decided to leave this peice of the driveshaft still attached. If it looks razor sharp in the pic. that's because it is.
http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=286033&d=1311281348
Now you can sit back and enjoy the view.
http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=286034&d=1311281348
And look at these two studs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=286031&d=1311281348
Moral of the story; if you need a part removed, feel free to ask for my or Ben's help, we get shit done.
The End.
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