ChrisO
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Posts posted by ChrisO
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Scary fast stuff. Crazy that evo is running 44psi, is it over 800whp?
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https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/d/bmw-m3/6675503569.html
$28k e36 M3 vert
https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/d/ls-swaped-e36-m3/6679245144.html
$15k for a salvage title e36 M3 with a truck motor. Sounds like it has a cast iron block, coming from a 2004 Silverado. Price seems kinda high
https://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/cto/d/2002-bmw-745li/6676308766.html
"Mechanic got incarcerated"
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On 8/23/2018 at 2:38 PM, Rekpoint said:
We called them at 2am to get it. We said it was an AWD m3 (so they would bring a flatbed). after 2 hrs we called him and he said leave the key on the seat. Problem was there wasnt a seat. We left it on the hood. He didnt end up coming and it got picked up by a different driver at 1pm next day 😂😂
@SteelBlue and I played AAA one time. Worked great
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10 minutes ago, SteelBlue said:
Apparently I missed this story 😂
Tfw when you asked your mom and brother to bring your M3 exhaust and hood to Gibson’s while you were at work and got $4 for it...They were probably loving that they didn’t have to pay anything for it.
bruh
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20 hours ago, patsbimmer1 said:
What the fucking fuck...
https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/cto/d/98-bmw-m3-set-up-for-drift/6664644024.html
Lmao the front bumper and nose panel has like 4in cut from the side of it MAX LOCKKK. What a waste of a lower mile car. E36's are the next 240's, i'm happy the market is starting to make M3's unobtainable for the No FuCCs GiVeN JuSt SeNd It HoOnIgaN kids who do shit like this and jump them over train tracks. I could care less what someone does to a car that's already ruined, but I get the feeling this thing looked normal 2 years ago. Don't get me wrong, you can build a car the way you want or slide them, but this thing was really disrespected haha
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5 hours ago, Jdesign said:
Honestly it should be fine. A nice piece of mind for you to have it welded, but sadly I have seen much worse on race cars that just send it.
On the other hand, that subframe mount totally needs to be repaired to prevent if from getting worse. Media blasting the area first prior to welding would be a very good idea. Where are you located? I can give you some suggestions based on your location..
Thanks for the input, I feel a bit better about the trailing arm. As far as the cracking trailing arm mounts go, I contacted a performance shop in Green Bay hoping they would let me help out with the job so it's done right, as they have never done something like this on a e36 before. Finding a shop who has done a trailing arm reinforcement job already would be ideal, so I'm open to anyone within an hour or so of Green Bay.
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I'm an absolute idiot, and despite trying to be more careful with the other trailing arm I cut into it worse. I didn't feel comfortable with it so I welded it and sanded it down
The trailing arm bushing went in very snug like the other side, but I need an honest opinion on if you guys would worry about this or replace the trailing arm. It's in a nice thick spot, but I'm not a pro welder and I doubt I penetrated very deep. These are cast from what I understand and I don't want it to crack and explode when I'm driving or something, I don't know if these things get insane load or if it's not that big of a deal
Also more cracks.
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Currently doing my RTABs,
Blown out pretty bad
The drill method worked pretty good, but I left a small notch in the trailing arm. Opinions on if it'll ever matter? It's obviously not huge, it's in the thickest spot of the arm and it's circular so it wont crack I'm thinking. The poly bushings went in snug
So I have the poly in, everything torqued and the arm is back in the car on the drivers side. unfortunately I found a small hairline crack at the mounting point. I'm not going to risk driving on it, so I need to have it welded and reinforcement plates welded in ASAP, I only have 2 weeks before I go back to school. Can anyone recommend a shop that will do this right? I don't want it rusting or anything like that because a shop didn't prep it right.
I hit it with some sand paper, and it is indeed a crack. The other side is the side that clunked bad, so fingers crossed
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21 hours ago, Rekpoint said:
I feel like these things are bargains. 2014 is pretty dang new, I see them for as low as $20k on Autotrader
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https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/d/1999-e36-bmw-328is-tech-dinan/6664429475.html
Cool car but firm on $5k with that kinda rust? The shell is done for
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5 minutes ago, Earl said:
For an e36? The sleeves are aluminum so they come out fairly easily with a few drilled holes and some light Dremel work. If you're replacing with Poly you can usually grease them up and draw them in with a clamp
Oh, I thought they were steel. I've seen people drill them out but I was thinking that it seemed horrible. I just don't want to cut into the trailing arm on accident
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Looking to rent a RTAB tool if anyone has one laying around, hoping to stay within an hour of Green Bay
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I ordered 80A street/autox bushings from Garagistic, so hopefully those aren't too hard. I think for this summer and fall I'm going to skip out on doing the reinforcement plates, probably will do them in the future though!
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1 hour ago, SteelBlue said:
I am going to be dying the door cards in the E30 along with the headliner and carpet. From the research I've been doing, the Duplicolor Fabric and Vinyl is the stuff to get, can be found at most automotive places and hardware stores. I've seen lightly wet sanding the leather with 1000 grit sandpaper, then cleaning the leather of an residual gunk, and then finally rubbing it down with some isopropyl alcohol. Then spraying the dye on like paint for the most part and letting it dry.
I think I might dye the back seat black as it won't have very much traffic on it, but the front seats I will likely just be replacing.
I found some leather dye at the craft store, but it doesn't work at all. It's hard to explain but it almost seems thinner then water and it separates out and refuses to stick to the leather. I'm concerned that the fabric and vinyl spray paint will have a very shiny appearance, do they make a more matte spray? I know that my rear seat is sort of shiny, but something like a shift boot has no shine and I think that's more like what I want for the center console
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Quick little update, I really need to start busting my ass on this car so I can have it daily-driveable for school
Washed my floor pan like a weirdo and put my black carpet in, I haven't replaced that firewall gasket still but the dashboard can come out with the carpet in. The car remains garaged 24/7
Putting a carpet in is always a PITA
Got some mudflaps from a guy on Bimmerforums for $10
Took my really bad sagging headliner out, glad I got it out before that foam/glue shit started getting all over everything. Very hard to clean off, happened on my last M.
I put all the handles and visors back in, probably just gonna drive it like that for the fall
I also tried to replace my rear emblem that was flaking apart, I got lucky and found a oem one off a e60 (same size) at the scrap yard.
It was surprisingly hard to take off, it took a ton of force and I scratched the paint behind the emblem up 😐. The little pegs broke off inside the grommets. I ended up ruining both grommets getting those pegs out, so I have to order some of those.
Check out that orange peel. I'm gonna guess this trunk is a respray, at least it has the vin still
I also lined up my bumper and fog lights and it looks 1000x better then before
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Do you have to preload poly bushings or is that only for the stock rubber?
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Did BMW ever do rear trailing arm mount reinforcements for later E36 M3's? I know 95 M3's had subframe mount problems but they corrected that for later years with reinforcements. I'm doing poly RTABs and I don't want added stress without reinforcement around the mount
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I've been looking at this trying to determine if it's photoshop. Looks real, hoods even cut...
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Never seen this one before around town, Boston Green E36 M3 on K1's in Green Bay.
Atleast the yellow fogs, high beams and green halos can be reversed 🤢
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Crept on @SteelBlue today
- patsbimmer1, SteelBlue and Rekpoint
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