jc43089
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Posts posted by jc43089
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Napa know how.
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Nice e36, I have an arctic gray early e36 as well which is taken apart to repair rust. Be careful how far you go
mine has been apart since fall of 2014. It's my favorite e36 color. What month/year is yours? I got lucky with my 03/93 325is and it had a limited slip from the factory because it had the cold weather package and they ASC wasn't developed yet and it still works very well with over 300k miles. My sedan is a 02/94 and it had ASC (traction control using that extra throttle body thing).
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18 hours ago, gilber33 said:
My fear is more that when it was removed, wires were cut rather than unplugged. Like the aux fan connector was cut instead of unplugged.
Right, you will be able to tell by the wire colors what they are/were for even when the plug is gone. And you can find what plugs/connectors you need. I might have some spare plugs depending what you need. The wire colors in the ETM are usually very accurately documented and reliable unlike wiring schematics in books like chiltons, and even the Bentley is not always right. BMW ETMs usually cover a specific model year like 08/89 to 07/90 so look for the right month/year.
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It should be easyish to figure out because all of the A/C stuff will be in one spot.
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On 8/23/2019 at 10:35 AM, KaiserRolls said:
I’ll get a comparison shot of the regular zf tob vs the 323TOB. Should be a difference of 4or5mm. Which should make up for the difference of dualmass/non dualmass flywheel. I want the clutch to engage not directly off the floor
lol at spider hose. Should just lift it from the ICV hoses. Those things never break either 👀
As long as you have URO brand you should be fine.
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Check out "wedo bmw etm" to find the right electrical manual for your exact month/year. The wire colors will be spot on and it will have pinouts for every plug. If you need help interpreting the schematics let me know.
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1 hour ago, gilber33 said:
I was browsing compressors and found a few that are 6 scfm at 40psi and 5 scfm at 90.
Even if I invest in a new compressor and hvlp guns, the cost of that and paint is still SUBSTANTIALLY cheaper than giving the car to a shop to do.
It would still be a diy paint job, and although I want it to look good, I need to maintain a bit of patina so I’m not afraid to drive it.
This is how I justify many tool purchases. Remember that that size class of compressors is borderline too small anyway. I was painting a hood, bumper cover and one fender so I could pause between parts. When you paint a whole car you need to keep going to maintain the wet edge so you can't just stop and wait for the compressor to keep up.
A minimum of something like this would be good. And it would do any other compressed air tasks. Downsides are that it isn't portable, and it needs 240V which any decent sized compressor will. And it is only a single stage so the efficiency is lower.
Going to a 2 stage is really nice because the volume of air jumps significantly and the compressor isn't working so hard to produce high pressures. It takes more justifying to your wife though.
Another option though is to borrow another smaller compressor like yours and hook them together and the combined air output will be plenty. Just make sure they are plugged into different circuits so the breaker doesn't trip.
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4.8 cfm at 40PSI is not going to be enough. I think my gun spec is around 12 cfm at 25psi. Mine is about 4.5 @ 90PSI which is significantly more air than at 40PSI. Also the more storage you have the more of a buffer you have. I need to get my big compressor hooked up. It puts out 21cfm at 175PSI. It only runs about 50% duty even sandblasting.
I used Nason brand paint from my local parts store and I would use it again, good price and it sprayed nicely.
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10 minutes ago, straight6pwr said:
i get this sad feeling that when a car gets rolled to the back of a deep, dark storage container it will probably never come back out. RIP.
and yes, your ramp was sketch as hell lol
I know, I was sad as well. I need to get the van swap project done and then I plan to get back to this after a few house projects. Otherwise it is just clogging up garage space. The kids are getting bigger so they enjoy playing/helping in the garage.
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The trailer came with the house, It is in the woods and the only way to get it out would be dragging it backwards. It is an insulated 48' in good shape so it works good to keep some stuff out of the garage.
Some pics of the new house. It's on 26 acres, 19 of it is woods and the other 7 is an alfalfa field.
Wood boiler for heat, there is also an LP furnace for backup.
And the garage, 26' deep by 32' wide. The floor has pex in it but there is a leak.
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I still have this car, haven't touched it other than putting it in my sweet storage trailer. It was a little sketch getting it aligned to roll it in.
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The kids like "driving a race car"
- straight6pwr, Jdesign and YoungCR
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I forgot the coding part, did you get it from Xemodex? I'm glad I didn't need to deal with that as mine was fine, my pump would run intermittently and it sounded weak when it was running, you can activate the pump with VIDA and watch the pump current draw and the output pressure. Do you have a VIDA/DICE setup? It is the most important thing for troubleshooting on a Volvo.
You need a decent air compressor for an HVLP gun but not a huge one. I think my little one I used for painting is around 2hp, 4.5 CFM at 90PSI. My compressor has a 4 gallon tank and then after the dryer was another 30 gallon tank. It was losing ground slowly as I painted but I gave it 30 seconds between parts to catch up and never had a problem. You need very dry air though, I made an ice powered air dryer that works really well for cheap, let me know if you want details on it. It worked so well that the dessicant final dryer never even had any color change.
I made a "booth" with tyvek wrap and had 3 box fans exhausting under the garage door and everything inside the booth had clear coat on it.
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e39 540i/6 for 2000$, electrical issues.
https://eauclaire.craigslist.org/pts/d/chippewa-falls-2000-bmw-540i/6923419471.html
e39 528i with no reverse for 1000$
https://lacrosse.craigslist.org/pts/d/galesville-2000-bmw-528i/6956314231.html
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21 minutes ago, KaiserRolls said:
I used to ride. Did too much stupid shit, so I stopped all together lol.
Please keep posting updates 😃
You rode supermoto with the W.A.R. guys didn't you? Not a smart move lol.
I got rid of my bike before that, this is my old bike. '87 VFR700. After 3 speeding tickets in a month and almost losing my drivers license it had to go... I loved the sound of the gear drive cams and the V4.
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9 hours ago, gilber33 said:
Got a box of stuff for the next little project for the e30. I’m going to attempt to spray the trunk lid and bumper. If it turns out okay I will probably gradually work my way down the car panel by panel.
Non bmw but I replaced the module and pump that operates the awd on my XC70. Gave me a renewed appreciation for older cars. It was an expensive repair.
Looks the same as the P2R Haldex unit. Worst design ever! Why would it be designed so that you have to remove the driveshaft and input flange to get the 1/4" of clearance to remove the pump???? And why is the filter in such a difficult spot??? Also no drain plug for Haldex or the rear differential. I added 1/8" NPT drain plugs to both on mine when I had it. There is no way to properly remove all of the fluid with the suction method. Oh and the price for parts is insane. A new pump is over 300$ for that tiny little thing. Luckily mine failed open, probably due to the brushes being worn out but if it shorts then it will ruin the DEM and then you are out 400$ for that too. And the special fluid is 30$ / liter. I don't miss that car.
As for the painting, see how it goes with the spray cans but I am a novice and had good results painting some parts on my van after a deer accident with an old HVLP gun. The spray cans will be very expensive to do a large area with. Mine turned out good and it was Toyota Beige with metal flake which made it trickier than just a regular color. The metal flake takes practice to lay down evenly but even that I figured out pretty quick how to make it look right. I tested on a piece of cardboard to get the gun set up. That looks like the 2k clear coat in a can. Huge sticky mess on everything. Make sure to protect everything, the over spray goes everywhere. It is different than paint over spray, somehow it coats everything in the room.
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Those sound perfect, I just need to find a way to get them from there to here. I don't make it to Milwaukee often. I will see if I can figure something out. I live near Wausau if anyone is making the trip.
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Also for whatever reason this thing gets pretty great gas mileage. I average about 27.5 mpg and I am not a hyper miler in any way. Gentler driving not over 60mph and it is more like 32mpg. I do use no ethanol 91 octane fuel, maybe those newer style fuel injectors help some.
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We bought a house in June and are moved in. I will post some pics soon. I need to bring the van over still. It acquired a bees nest behind the front bumper so I guess that is a sign I haven't been working on it.
I bought a used but not very old 10k asymmetrical Rotary lift from a friend that was closing down his shop. I need to drill a test hole in my garage floor to check for thickness before I figure out a plan for installation. If the floor isn't thick enough I will add a "shop" stall to the end of the garage with a higher ceiling to accommodate the full lift height. The existing part is 9'6" so it would still get quite a bit of height for cars but not so much for vans and trucks. The existing garage is 26' deep by 32' wide. It has a centered 16' door which is odd but it works. The lift bay would have to be angled some to work with that.
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I couldn't handle (pun intended) the broken latch, I got one coming from Ebay for 45$. If you want to be blown away look up pricing on an e36 coupe door latch...
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-door-lock-front-left-51211977113
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=51211977113&i=automotive&ref=nb_sb_noss
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Welcome, nice rides!