GunMetalGrey Posted February 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 It's made by Matt (ten2doyle) I just do all the grunt work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted February 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 So yesterday day I noticed that my front sway bar drop link was disconnected, whatever. Kind of annoying. And for the past few weeks the rear had been clunking a bit and I wanted to know what was up, so I checked and somehow the rear sway bar mount had come off, whatever, just needed one (luckily I have a spare e30 that isn't going to be moving real soon(sadly)) so today I pulled one off the red car, got new hardware for it and for the front, and new tranny fluid. Hooked up the front just fine. Got to the rear and realized why it had come off. So that was cool, for those that don't know, that area is supposed to be a whole piece with only one small hole in it, not a slot. So I decided to fix it, grabbed part of a starter plate that I had laying around and hacked it up a bit and made these. Rough? Yes! Functional and stronger than hell? Heck yeah. Slapped those bad boys in the with the new hardware, and it was perfect! And then for kicks and giggles I took out my rear adjuster for my springs, she tucks a 16 That's pointless and will probably be changed tomorrow, but its just one of those see how far you can go things. I dont even want to talk about how messy my fluid change was, other than that I broke an extension. Red cars motor (m50) will now be getting a FULL rebuild and boost prep, this means MLS head gasket, ARP head studs, new piston rings, new lower end bearings, and new valve seats. Should be fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine0002 Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 I wonder who's gonna finish their build first? my m50 is laying on my lawn waiting to go to the machine shop yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted February 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 What do you have to have done to it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted February 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 Tasty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
industrialsized Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 the wheels are nice i buddy of mine had them on his harlequin golf last year they are reasonably light and solid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan... Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 I like that last pic Sir Benjamin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted February 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 Thanks Ryan! The wheels on the white car? I like them, and they are in perfect shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 He means the snowflake reps;) was that harlequin at Scooters last year? If so it looked great. Were they all polished faces with each wheels painted a different color between the spokes? And Ben, do you know what wheels the white car is currently rocking? I likes them;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
industrialsized Posted February 26, 2012 Report Share Posted February 26, 2012 yes it was at scooters, ever show that car went to last year is got a trophy silly VW's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted February 26, 2012 Report Share Posted February 26, 2012 Yeah that thing was wicked;) is it a true harlequin? And we need moar pics and updates Ben;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted February 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2012 Got some parts from kurt this weekend, some random trim, a set of ellipsoids, an ix booster and some other small stuff. At this point I am just trying to figure out how far to go with the motor rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted March 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2012 How far should I go with this motor re-build? Do I really need to do the main and crank bearings? or is that just extra money and time and work for something that really isn't a wear item anyway? Same question with piston rings, I would assume piston rings would be a decent idea, but is it really needed? I know I need to do a valve job and an MLS Gasket and ARP studs, because I am going to boost prep the motor while I am in there anyway, and if I can source s50 cams those would go in at the same time I think but who knows anymore. I picked up a laptop the other day after selling my desktop to TJ, so that was a good amount of money that could have been used in the swap, but you kind of need a computer to sell things efficiently, and realOEM does not work on my phone All in all, progress is being made (kind of) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan... Posted March 1, 2012 Report Share Posted March 1, 2012 I guess, if I were in the same position (which I will be eventually as I rebuild the wrx motor), if you have the cash and the part isn't crazy expensive, i'd replace it.. The peace of mind + knowing you're hoping for big HP #s = I'd replace just about any moving part that you can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted March 1, 2012 Report Share Posted March 1, 2012 To be rebuilt you need new bearings and rings. That's all a rebuild it. Lol I would replace them because theyre a good price and add the piece of mind:P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted March 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2012 Good price? It's almost another 600 dollars lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted March 2, 2012 Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 (edited) Just for bearings and rings? You don't need a rebuild kit. Lol $300 is the absolute most. Lol Probably more so $200ish http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/B151/POR_B151_ENGman_pg1.htm Edited March 2, 2012 by Earl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted March 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 Odd, I had thought it was a ton more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted March 2, 2012 Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 Nope. It's not hard to do either if you already have it apart;) and it gives you that brand new motor confidence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted March 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 Soo.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted March 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 Picked up those bad boys for my pops! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ten2doyle102 Posted March 4, 2012 Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 For what car? The porcshe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted March 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 Yeah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted March 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 Boost prep idea went out the window, especially when a headgasket and ARP studs are 450 without shipping, I just got an OEM head gasket and studs for 50 dollars..... so thats a thing. Getting the head rebuilt by a local guy, full valve job and deck. Did an awesome job on another m50tu. Motor parts have been ordered and motor disassembly will start... tomorrow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted April 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 So I pulled the head off of my e34 M50TU to get the head rebuilt (valve seals were not the best on the exhaust of cylinder 3). So I had planned on just rebuilding the head, and slapping it back on, that is until I saw the cylinder walls. I shall let this picture do the talking. They are glass, not cool at all. The picture makes them look a tad bit scratched but they are not. So I need to do something about that, and I feel as though I wont be able to re-hone those because they have a fairly good lip where the piston stops its travel so I can tell its fairly worn(fairly clear in the picture). I am thinking that I cannot get away with just re-honing and new rings, but am I wrong? Or do I have to bore over .25 and use new rings (which is freaking expensive) Anyone have any insight on this? Obviously I would like to keep this fairly cost effective. Any help is appreciated, and I am open to all options here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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