gilber33
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Posts posted by gilber33
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Hi everyone. One question (for now):
- When I removed the master cylinder it pulled the push rod out from the brake booster. I looked at it last night and it doesn't look like it's something that can be easily (if at all) reinstalled. The OE brake booster looks to be unavailable. I know people modify or install other brake boosters for engine swaps. Can anyone recommend one that's affordable and would be close to an OE replacement and hopefully have minimal modifications?
It looks like the 924/944 booster is the go to for most engine swaps. Is there any reason you couldn't use this with the stock m20?
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What does the pedal tuner do? Is it something that actually becomes part of the pedal?
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I think my RMS is totally fine. Looks like the leak from the bottom is coming from transmission. All of the lower transmission bolts smelled like transmission fluid (disgusting). I have ATF PTSD from a 240 I bought from @The Full Banana a long time ago that had a leaking transmission pan gasket and it took several attempts to get it sealed and that meant laying in ATF on a cold parking garage floor each time. It was awful.
Anyways - the area behind the clutch was totally dry, but the transmission was soaked and it looks like there's a little trail where fluid looks like it's leaking from whatever this thing is:
Edit: After looking at realOEM that circle thing does not appear to be any type of seal. It must be leaking down from the input shaft seal and making it look like that's where it's leaking from.
Behind the clutch is completely dry:
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2 minutes ago, wasnt m3 said:
That'd be Dave aka @Bassboy3313
Thank you!
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I remember seeing pictures of someone in here who did vinyl work and did some stuff with a couple e30 hoods. Who was that or am I making stuff up?
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Both my wife and I have had shitty experiences with the Menomonee Falls hub. A package gets there and they basically float it around the building for a few days and scan it each day to tell you it’s there. I’ve been avoiding ordering parts from places if they use fedex.
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After taking off the intake yesterday I noticed I still had some oil getting into the throttle body...
Figured that out.
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7 minutes ago, GunMetalGrey said:
Man, I want to do another engine bay like that again, I appreciate you bringing up the photos again!
I believe I used a wire wheel to strip the seam sealer off. I used Eastwood seam sealer with lacquer thinner on my finger to smooth the new seam sealer.
Very therapeutic activity when it goes properly hahaDo you recall how removing the seam sealer went? Was it a shit show? Did gum up or with the wire wheel did it come off pretty easily?
Your engine bay was much cleaner and, I'm assuming because of the swap, has much less stuff in it than mine does. So I'm not even sure if the extra work to remove the seam sealer would be noticeable.
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14 hours ago, KaiserRolls said:
https://www.amazon.com/SPAL-30130012-Replacement-Rubber-Shroud/dp/B019XDLULW
rubber flaps for radiator shroud pass throughs might be the right “weight/thickness”
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!
Got the HVAC box completely apart last night so I can clean it out and replace all the foam on it. It is pretty disgusting. Lots of dead bugs inside of it. I guess that's what happens when they didn't come with filters.
Crusty "non-return" flap:
Broken recirc flap and the other one starting to crack:
Interior wiring all cleaned up. Re-loomed all the wire harnesses. Speaker wire and RCA cables coming today and then I can run all the stereo wires to the trunk and put the carpet back in.
I was really considering doing more insulation inside the car to reduce road noise but I read quite a few reviews of the sound deadening mat and other insulations (some specifically being used in an e30) that explained how the results were negligible at best. So rather than spend the couple hundred bucks on more insulation, I'm just going to leave it and turn up the music instead.
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I suspect I may need to get somewhat creative with the non-return flap found in the HVAC box. It's this:
It looks like I could open the "clip" at the top and swap in a new piece of rubber. Other than roaming the isles of Menards looking for a suitable material that I could cut up, does anyone have any suggestions of a comparable material I could use? It's just rubber.
I ordered this and the blower motor cover straps from ECS and they were both about two weeks out and I just received an email that they are now 3-5 weeks. My fear is at 5 weeks they email again and say they're another 3-5 weeks out or unobtainable. BMW of North Milwaukee had the straps in their system and those will be here in a few days, but this flap is coming from Germany. It doesn't appear to be available on any of the other online stores.
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Well, it just happened on my first order. A couple parts that I need for the heater box were a couple weeks out when I placed the order and that just changed to 3-5 weeks.
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2 hours ago, HipMF said:
A couple years ago, the electronics industry went through a capacitor shortage. The cause was allegedly that the manufacturers had planned on demand falling, but it never did. It takes years to spin up a new factory and no one wanted to do it if demand was going to level off or fall. Supply slowly started to dry up.
Of course, when word got out that there wasn't going to be enough supply, everyone panic-bought, which of course made the problem worse, causing more people to think "This is bad, maybe I should panic-buy...".
A year later everything was back to normal and no one was worried about the alleged capacitor shortage anymore...
I guess it’s technically panic buying, but I think of it more like trying to avoid having something dumb go on back order and and prolong projects. That’s happened a couple times already and it’s super annoying.
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1 hour ago, patsbimmer1 said:
You mean already impacting? I work directly with the automotive aftermarket suppliers in the suspension, accessories, electronics, lugs, performance parts, etc categories and everyone is already falling behind and it's not looking to get better for 2022. If it is made out of copper, aluminum, steel or relies on being shipped into the country then it will continue to struggle.
I am aware that segments of parts are becoming more difficult to get. When I shopping for suspension or the casual browse I have been seeing more performance stuff being backordered with no ETA. I guess I was thinking more of like the cart of random maintenance parts that I put together on FCP. Should I be ordering that kind of stuff now knowing that there is stock of it right now even if it's a project that I'm not going to get to until March? Should I be ordering speakers from crutchfield right now before the demand spikes over Christmas?
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11 hours ago, jc43089 said:
I think I've got that reserved. Four kids and one on the way. Bring it!
Blessed be the fruit.
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Do you guys think the growing concerns regarding the supply chain will impact getting parts for cars? I have my list of things I want to do on the e30 this winter and I'm starting to wonder if I should get as much as I can now to just have it. I know not everyone wants wheel bearings for christmas, but if the other systems are strained, I assume it would have some spillover?
Things that I can think of is I'm looking at new speakers and an amp for the car. Crutchfield has them all in stock now, but they only have like three single-din head units in stock. Could speakers be next?
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4 minutes ago, jc43089 said:
Not sure, I would guess poor results but maybe it would work.
Is there a special primer I could use that would adhere to the painted surfaces better if I couldn’t fully prep the seam sealer surface?
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1 hour ago, YoungCR said:
@jc43089 would a needle gun be gentle enough to chip the existing paint off the seam sealer but not smash it like play dough? Even then I'd recommend that tool for most of the paint/rust removal as well. It's great for any scaly rust areas and harbor freight has 2 sizes available.
I forgot about those. Would make cleaning up the frame rails a lot easier - which are the main spaces I need to clean up, closer to the firewall.
There was one spongy spot under the washer fluid reservoir that I could push my finger through if I wanted to.
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Got the heater box out today. It was pretty simple. Foam was of course very deteriorated. It's really neat how simple cars actually are when you break them down into all of their separate systems.
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On 10/8/2021 at 8:04 PM, Jdesign said:
Well I had a epic day yesterday. I discovered some roads in Wisconsin that I would never imagine existed. Im talking switchbacks, massive elevation changes, and hairpins. Black ribbons of glory. A few of the roads were not in ideal condition, but there were so many that had FRESH blacktop I was amazed. I drove through the drift-less area from Eu Claire, all the way to Sun Prairie just west of 94. It took me about 8 hours of driving as I was doubling back and taking roads that I couldn't hit. I marked a bunch of them that I felt were worthy of a future cruise. Im likely going to go back this weekend and verify I solid route as I will be staging a video for two of my friends cars in the area.
Mind sharing them as route in google maps or something??
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2 hours ago, jc43089 said:
Seam sealer will not sand. it It is soft and turns to melted shreds and smears if you use a wire wheel on it too. It's very difficult to remove. It's about like working with the undercoating. After my experience messing with it I would recommend leaving it alone lol.
I’m not opposed to that. Given it’s texture, I would be concerned I wouldn’t be able to clean it well for paint to stick to it. But maybe since it’s so textured paint will stick to it really well.
Removed the dash today, was pretty straightforward other than the write up failing to mention all of the wire harnesses pass through the ducting on it.
I’m going to work on cleaning up all the wiring. I’m going to remove most of the stereo stuff since I’m going to do an amp and new speakers and will reroute all the wires a cleaner way. Also taping everything and probably use the wire loom I used in the engine bay in here too.
All of this stuff running over to the glovebox area I never used. Would it be safe to just snip them off and heat shrink the ends? The only purpose of that would be to clean and simplify things.
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On 8/24/2019 at 8:32 PM, GunMetalGrey said:
I know I'm late to the party on the comments, but my engine bay had been shot with a home depot HVLP, and a 10 gal craftsman air compressor.
The only large difference is that I didn't have large flat areas that I had to worry about air consistency as much. Using an inline water trap, and a water trap right at the gun makes the largest difference.
Painting is something I always wanted to spend more time with, but takes time and space!
Engine bay for reference.
Here it is. @GunMetalGrey can you share what you did the clean up the seam sealer?
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42 minutes ago, straight6pwr said:
do expound on the Garagistic part, please.
It appears they now have a Version 2:
@The Full Bananaand myself went in on the preorder for when they first made them and the first version, the bearing is flush with the housing. On this one it protrudes. So after you install it in the DSSR, the bearing doesn't do shit. Plus - they made it about a mm thicker than the oem one, so I had to file down the DSSR for it to fit in it. Basically ruining it if I want to replace the selector joint. I will be replacing the joint with an OEM piece and get a new DSSR from anyone else. I don't need anything else from Garagistic anymore.
42 minutes ago, straight6pwr said:given your car is no longer seeing daily or winter use, i dont see removal/reduction of seam sealer being a problem. i have no idea if the 30 year old seam sealer will give you a nice finish if you start grinding/sanding it though.
there is definitely someone here that has shaved their e30 engine bay though, Sam with the drift car I think?
Is the seam sealer intended to provide some structural rigidity to the body or is purely for keeping the seams sealed from moisture/rust?
But valid point on the quality of finish after it's sanded. Someone posted pictures in this thread a while back. I'll have to go back and check them out. Is the seam sealer solid if it is sanded down or does it stay kind of gummy?
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Parked.
I'm starting to put together my winter plans. Here's what I HAVE to do:
- Replace water pump.
- Replace RMS.
- Get rid of the garbage Garagistic solid gear selector rod joint.
- Replace rear DS axle and wheel bearing to get rid of the vibration.
Here's what I WANT to do:
- Rebuilding the HVAC box. One of the recirc flaps is broken from the rod. Confirmed last night that both motors work and the fan turns on to low speed when the button is pressed. I also would like to replace all of the foam seals.
And here's what I've been contemplating. I have to take the front of the engine apart to do the water pump. I have to take the transmission off to do the RMS. By doing those two things, half of the work is done to just remove the engine/trans. And now I have a lift and could easily drop the engine out the from the bottom. With the engine out there are some places with surface rust that I would like to address within the bay. And in general, the engine bay is poor shape. I would love to clean it up entirely - not talking about a full shave here - just a clean up and spray.
A question about a general clean up of the engine bay. I wouldn't be going for full a fully shaved bay, but I would take a grinder to it to clean up the surface. Are there any negative affects that would come from smoothing out the seam sealer to an extent that would allow me to effectively prep the surface for paint?
Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum
in Members BMWs
Posted
Talked to a friend who shaved their bay and their advice was fire and a scraper to get excess sealer off and then a wire wheel. Took about a half hour to do this much. It’s a pretty efficient approach. Dirty as hell, but it should move along.
And can anyone identify this connector? I’m pretty confident I’ve never had it plugged into something. Located somewhere behind the front left corner of the lower valance.