Jump to content
WI BIMMERS - Wisconsin's BMW Community

cpandrewschmidt

Members
  • Posts

    202
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Posts posted by cpandrewschmidt

  1. yep, i for sure had the pump, i pulled it to inspect it as well to make sure the filter wasnt dirty.  

    I just pulled the vacuum line on the FPR and it was dry.  Is there any way to check for leaking injectors?  I think I'm down to that as being the only thing I haven't checked.  Other thing I could think of would be my CCV but that seems OK.  when I googled symptoms of that being bad they said open the oil fill on the valve cover and your car would start sounding like Chewbacca.  Mine checked out fine for that.

    ugh...refuse to take it to a shop 

     

  2. Morning all, no fun updates, rims will go on next week so I'll get pics up when that's done!

    Still working on this dang CEL.  No vacuum leaks, changed fuel filter as well.  I rented a fuel pressure test gauge from Orileys to make sure I'm not getting low pressure.  Here's what happened. T'd it into the fuel line at the fuel pump in the back seat.  Turned pump on and no reading on the gauge.  Perhaps fuel isn't going through?  So, I start the car and car starts right up and runs, but still no reading on the gauge.  OK, well maybe it's just a bad gauge.  So, we return that one and get a second one from Autozone.  Hook that one up, same thing.  No pressure on gauge but pump is clearly working and fuel it flowing through the "T" connection because car runs fine.  We could be idiots and hooked it up wrong, but I don't really see how that would be possible, you just put the "T" fitting inline and connect the gauge.  Two gauges wouldn't both be bad you wouldn't think.  

    So, maybe this means something, I'm not getting enough back pressure to register on the gauge?  Fuel pressure regulator?  If that is shot wouldn't I be running rich?  I thought having the negative short term fuel % mean that I was running lean.  Or does that reading mean I'm actually running rich and the computer is trying to Lean out the fuel?  That might make sense then if the FPR is shot. 

    Thanks again for all the help, Andrew

  3. ok, code still there.  Update on some numbers I noticed while driving today.  

    Seems my short term fuel trim 1 is out of wack.  It stays around -18-20% while in gears 1-3 when going upto 4-5th gears at highway speeds it drops to -10.6-12% which still seems like a high number compared to SHRTFT2 which stays in the -3-6% range.  Long term still holds steady at -8.6% for both.  

    Thoughts if that might still point to a vacuum leak or fuel delivery issue?   

  4. 55 minutes ago, Snap said:

    Does your chip tune account fort the different MAF?/did this MAF and chip tune come from the vendor that sells the SC kit?

    according to the website yes

    http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com/supercharger.html

    also, car was running fine with no CEL for about 500 miles when I got it, so hopefully tune is good.  TRM Tuning in Cummings, GA did the install work.  Apparently they're reputable and they did respond to me that they worked on this car, so i know that's true.  Keeping fingers crossed it was a vacuum leaked. 

  5. Thanks M42B32.  I've discovered I have the 803 Porsche MAF because of the supercharger and upgraded injectors.  So, not sure my numbers will give much of a comparison.  I'd say the MAF appears to be functioning though.  That would have also been new at the time of SC install.  

    I haven't had a chance to drive much since this weekend.  Summer tires on the M and snow don't mix.  Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to get it out of the subdivision.  Spent the weekend tearing down to the ICV.  Cleaned that real well, it was pretty dirty.  Put everything back together real tight, added hose clamps to vacuum lines that didn't have any just to be safe.  Not hearing any leaks.  Cleaned the air filter.  It was filthy.  Still getting crap out of it after using the K&N cleaner three times.  Cleared codes and only took for a couple short trips.  Pending codes didn't come back.  Not holding my breath though, codes seemed to appear when I'd get to highway speeds, which I didn't do yet.  Tomorrow should be a good test. 

  6. Yeah, my car is really fast! ;)  sorry meant .24   I'll take a passenger with me who can watch more closely to see if it gets up towards .35

    I'll keep searching for vac leaks.  Going to have get it up on ramps.  Because of the SC the ICV is located under the SC and very hard to get at.  I was hoping in the back of my mind i wouldn't have to deal with that, but am realizing I'm probably going to need to inspect it.  Not sure how i'm going to get at it.  ugh......

  7. OK, took out for lunch.  A bit hard to read while driving and going to WOT but I noticed it as high as 24.1 lb/s.  If I had to guess my rpm around 4500-5000 range at that point.  Again hard to drive and not crash while watching three things.  So, it may have peaked higher I just didn't catch it.  I also took some revised data while cruising at 55 mph.  Not sure if that tells anymore of a story.  

    One other little thing I've noticed.  When I come off throttle and into neutral from stop and go traffic the rpm will dip very briefly to about 400 rpm and recover immediately to normal idle. Only does this in stop/go.  Doesn't do it if I come into neutral from higher gears like 4 and 5 and drop into neutral.  

    20170309_113902_1489090292871_resized.jpg

    20170309_113917_1489090290337_resized.jpg

    20170309_113927_1489090286970_resized.jpg

    20170309_113934_1489090284614_resized.jpg

  8. 5 hours ago, Daggerty said:

    What's the part number on your maf, I might have one.

    Real OEM is saying 

    13621703275

    but I'll double check what's actually on mine since the SC kit supposedly came with a new one. 

    Another note, I see my reading is .01 lb/s. I'm looking online for normal readings and see readings are all recorded in lb/hr.  Not sure if that makes my reading OK.  

  9. Did a little more testing on the code reader.  For my MAF reading i watched it while driving home.  At 55 mph it would hover between .04-.05 lb/s  Not sure if that's normal or low.  Under reasonably heavy acceleration it'd get to .11 lb/s.  So, it appears to at least be reading something.  I unplugged it at idle and the car started to spit and sputter badly, so it's regulating a little bit I assume.  Would software for the SC mess with this?  No one on here around Madison I could swing by to test a known good MAF before dropping a couple hundred on one?  I'll also be around brookfield this Friday about 2pm and heading back to Madison :)  

    I tried the screw driver on the injector trick to see if they're ticking properly.  Couldn't really hear crap over regular engine noise.  You'd think they'd be OK since they're only 20K miles old when the SC was put on.  Haven't flow tested them yet.  I suppose that's next. 

    Happy to entertain other ideas!  New fuel filter comes Friday as well, maybe its not getting the fuel it needs?

  10. hi all, back from the weekend.  Update.  Hooked up a DIY smoker.  Paint can with some tubes hooked up to a compressor at 4 psi then blew smoke into the chamber.  Worked well except I couldn't introduce enough smoke with just a cigar.  Didn't really need the smoke I was able to hear one small leak out of one of the SC tubes.  Fixed that and checked again couldnt hear any air leaking out of anywhere else and pressure definitely built up.  Intake tube fix held fine.  Drove car again and light still came on, this time only code P1188.  

    Filter is a K&N that probably needs to be cleaned and lightly oiled again.  But not sure that would be my problem.  Next step is to check injectors I suppose.  I put some injector cleaner in the tank.  Also tried to clean MAF.  For the O2 sensors I only unplugged 1 at a time so I know I put those back in the correct spots.

    Car still seems to run just fine, drove it about 250 round trip up north.  who knows on this one!  Kind of stumped at this point.    

  11. Thanks Snap.  Useful info for sure.  I'll check the wiring again around everything.  The car does have an open air cone filter.  Would that effect the MAF readings as an "air leak"?  

    Both upstream O2 sensors are brand new Bosch so I think those are OK.  Going to grab some injector cleaner and see if that helps. 

    I'm going to try rigging up a DIY smoke test this afternoon. 

  12. Hi all, So some small updates and much frustration.  Put a new Alcantara headliner in, looks great.  Don't have any pics yet.

    Now onto the trouble, and where I need some experts on here help.  Check engine light came on a few days ago.  Codes P1188 at first, now both P1188 and P1189. Reading online this could be a slew of things from Vacuum leak, o2 sensor, injector, MAF, fuel delivery, etc.  Car for the most part feels OK.  I just haven't had enough time with it to tell if it's running more poorly than normal.  

    Here's what I've done so far.  Searched tubes for vacuum leak found a crack in the throttle body boot, patched it real well with JB so I do think that's fixed.  Code still came on.  Had spare O2 and spark plugs so I changed those out last night, cleared codes and reset battery.  Codes both came back this AM.  Kind of out of cheaper ideas to check.  I would think injectors are OK as they were new with the SC about 22,000 miles ago.  I hate to throw money at parts just guessing unless they're routine maintenance items.  I have a fuel filter coming next week I'll be throwing on.  

    Anyone on here around the Madison area that has an e36 M3 I could try their MAF to see if it's that before buying a new one? 

    I also took some "live" data from my code reader.  I have no idea what any of this means.  Most of the numbers jump around and what shown is only just because I snapped a picture at that time.  I'm not sure if I'm relaying what's showing correctly.  

    Thanks for the help.  Afraid this car might not have been a great idea.....

    code1.jpg

    code2.jpg

    code3.jpg

    code4.jpg

  13. 13 hours ago, m42b32 said:

    31764842073_c013351097_b.jpg

    Got a deal on some clear tails, liking how it looks! Eventually I'll get some clear side markers and front signals

    I have clear sidemarkers and corners on my black m3.  I think orange looks better on black.  Want to trade?  I don't think my corners work on a coupe though.  I have a sedan.  Happy to mail you my sidemarkers though.  Let me know

  14. 5 minutes ago, straight6pwr said:

    great car.

    i like that the SC setup is pretty subtle, and very compact!

     

    Thanks.  Yeah I did a bunch of research on that SC before getting the car.  It's pretty highly regarded on the bimmerforums forced induction page.  Made me feel more comfortable about buying someone else's mods.  The SC only has about 20k miles on it.  It is due for an oil change before I really start driving it.  Its definitely a different type of feeling compared to the turbo 135i, In a good way, very linear power.       

  15. Thanks everyone.  I'm in Madison.  Definitely plan to get to a cars and coffee this year.  Will bring both cars.  Here's the e30, 5 speed swap all done last fall, got better rims over the winter to put on it.  Can't wait to really drive it around this next year.  Both cars for that matter.  Still have to get the M3 registered and insured.  Ugh, this weather sucks for fun cars.  Looking forward to meeting a lot of you. 

    vert.jpg

  16. Hi all, been asking for parts on here so figured I should get the new ride up to show what they're going towards.  Picked up a Eurosport Supercharged '98 M3 sedan.  Always loved the sedans from back then.  I used to have a '99 M3 coupe about 10 years ago.  An e39 5 series, a 335i, and a 135i later I wanted to get back into the e36 platform.  Just something more raw about the cars back then.  Wanted an older car but didn't want to sacrifice the power coming from the 135.  So, kept an eye out for a turbo'd or SC'd m3.  This should be putting down around 415 hp or so.  Found it in AZ and bought site unseen, which was scary.  Car arrived and of course there were some surprises.  Oil leak, power steering leak, etc.  Body and interior in pretty good shape all and all for an almost 20 year old car.  Just some touch up work to take care of.  

    Already changed vanos seals, valve cover, o2 sensor and power steering lines.  Other maintenance items will follow, plugs, etc.  Car is lowered on TRM coilovers.  

    Future list of mods/fixes:  Apex Arc 8 rims, bmw front plate filler, rear window seal, PCV valve (oil smells like fuel, could be PCV or just the fact it has upgraded injectors), drivers window isn't tinted but others are, 6x9s are blown, PO did something weird wrapping sunroof interior in carbon fiber.  Wish list delete the spoiler. 

    I'll get better pictures up as weather improves.  Shameless plug for the 135 which will now be for sale in the background.  Currently have this and a '91 325i vert for the summer.  Wife not happy, haha.........

    Andrew 

    rear.jpg

    rear2.jpg

    cars.jpg

  17. Hi all, these are probably dumb questions but cant seem to find much online while I'm doing my swap.

    picture 1.  old trans this cable was connected by the throttle body and went into here in the auto trans.  On the manual I don't see anywhere for it.  What is it for?

    2. Next two pics.  I put a new CSB on the drive shaft of the manual. The old one was completely shot.  When I pulled the auto drive shaft I noticed that one side of the CSB is more concave than the other.  On the manual you can see how I installed it.  The concave side is opposite of the way the auto was when I pulled off.  Does this matter?

    3. On the driveshaft.  Manual DS on top.  I separated the middle "teeth" section to get the CSB on.  My idiot self forgot to mark lines on them.  Am I screwed now and I'll likely be out of balance?  Driveshaft did come with the new 5 speed, but there are no noticeable markings on the Guibo side to line up flanges on the driveshaft.  

    Thanks again

    Andrew

     

    transmission.jpg

    guibo1.jpg

    guibo2.jpg

  18. Well folks, that's a transmission out!!!!  I definitely think it was pinched being the last bolt.  Put a few others in and tightened down and then put the jack under and lifted a half inch to take the pressure off.  Came off no problem then.  Phew, what a relief.  I'll let you all know when the swap is done an hopefully drive able!  Thanks again for all the offers for help, especially Chris.    

    trans.jpg

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.