TehRaydarlover
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Posts posted by TehRaydarlover
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Waukesha, WI. I'm actually going to be in MN in two weeks if you would like to meet up in Tomah again.
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6 minutes ago, m42b32 said:
I think that pricing looks great, I'd be interested in a medium case 'standard' rebuild in the next month or two.
Out of curiosity, on the standard rebuild, would you check the pinion and carrier bearing preload?
Sounds good, let me know when you're ready. Absolutely, I set the rolling torque for the pinion and the carrier bearings.
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Added pricing to the OP. I'm just guessing on my labor costs, let me know what you think.
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Cool, sounds like some pretty good interest. I'll look into it over the weekend and come up with a pricing structure for the different options.
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I've been thinking I could rebuild differentials, maybe help out some Wibimmer people. I've only done med case differentials but I'm sure I could figure out small and large cases also.
Pricing only for medium case 188 differentials. If you have a VLSD from an ix I can also rebuild the viscous coupling.
Standard, $300: new bearings, shaft seals, o-rings, speed sensor, crush bushing, cover gasket, verify and set gear lash and contact pattern, and a new paint job (black two part epoxy, unless you want something else). With this one I'm not going to open the pumpkin and inspect the clutch packs.
Standard plus, $450: this is everything from above plus all new dust covers, brackets, securing plate, drain plugs, speed sensor hardware, it'll look brand spanking new. Including the stupid expensive securing plate for the speed sensor 62161365817 the thing is like $80 :0
Option 1, $25+cost: Clean and inspect internals, replace clutch packs and dog ears. The clutch disks and dog ears are about $100+shipping from thayermotorsports.com (bimmerdiffs) but if you want me to use something else just let me know or order them yourself and send them to me. There are several options for the number of clutch packs, stock is two packs but you can get three in there without modification. I can also machine the housing for a fourth clutch pack +$50. I can machine custom ramp angles, just let me know what angles you want +$TBD.
Option 2, $100: Change gear ratios, you provide the desired new ring and pinion. This is a little tedious because I will likely have to make a new pinion and carrier shims. The bolts are torque to yield, they will be replaced with new.
Option 3, $20+cost: press in a new differential bushing into the cover, you provide bushing or tell me which one to order.
This is all assuming your diff is in decent shape to start with and hasn't been run dry of oil or sat at the bottom of a lake for 10 years. If I find damage I'll send you pictures and we can work out how you would like to proceed. If the diff is beyond repair and you don't want me to proceed I'll keep $40 for my time and oil disposal and refund you the rest. We should be fine as long as there isn't any crazy gear wear.
Thanks,
Ray
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2 hours ago, vbhargava said:
huh...at what point should I consider doing the rod bearings?
You're probably okay for a while at 100k. just something to keep in mind if you ever have the upper oil pan off for some reason. These were mine after 154k:
Old bearings are all out and new WPC treated ones are in 🖒
Cylinder 8 bearing definitely looks the worst, but minus the first two cylinders they all look pretty worn, very glad I decided to change them.
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Looks nice! Yeah, cam position sensors are a pain! Let me know if you need any help when you decide to tackle rod bearings haha.
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https://glensfalls.craigslist.org/cto/d/1974-bmw-2002-rolling-shell/6283956862.html
Sitting in a hotel not too far from this thing contemplating renting a uhaul lol.
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Took the M5 out for it's first real shake down after work today, everything appears to be functioning as it should! I followed this guy for a while but never got the chance to assert the fact that 5 is more than 3 lol. ...I feel like I should know who this is haha.
- B C, DrLeadFoot and Bassboy3313
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Spray some kroil or other oil down as a lubricant before using the stone. Really a lapping block and compound would a be better option to keep scratches out of the surface. Sharpening stones can be pretty corse for a machined sealing surface.
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Hmm, didn't even know of one in chicago... looks like I bought this one before the one in Chicago was FS. I think I'm happy with mine though, cheaper, clean title, not torn apart, buuuut SMG and no engine haha.
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Yep new summer daily. I was told doing a burnout is part of the recommended tire break-in procedure?
...also, I just bought an e46 M3 that needs a new engine, options? I'm thinking I'm just going to put a new engine in it and try to flip it but it would make for a fun |<. <| |>.>| racecar. I don't have any pictures but it's stock and black, you get the idea:
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Cam position sensor fixed the misfire but now it's throwing all sorts of new codes lol. I'm thinking it's vanos related on bank 1, probably the solenoids. Anyway I got to drive it around briefly last weekend. Blew a tire then put on some new pilot super sports. This car is a beast haha.
P.S. There was no handicap sign and the paint was really faded, honest mistake lol.
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Yeah, it's entirely possible the cam sensors are bad. I'm hoping I get a misfire code tonight telling me at least what side to look at. Then maybe swap cam sensor/maf and see if the problem follows.
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I don't know when the cam sensors were changed. It threw a code yesterday, I'll borrow my coworkers reader tonight and see what it is. I pulled the plugs last night and they looked okay, none of them looked really black or wet.
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Not that I know of but I didn't really get on it like I was yesterday. I'm going to pull the plugs and see what they look like. Maybe the coils are bad? Shouldn't I be getting some codes from it going into limp mode?
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Well I took it for a drive yesterday and right away it was misfiring really bad under load. I drove straight to kwik trip to get some fresh gas, talking with the PO the gas was probably well over a year old. Fresh gas helped a lot but it went into limp mode and still misses under load. I'm pretty sure I fouled the plugs, but any other ideas? I ran the codes and it had the same ones as before I started working on it. Secondary air pump, coolant temp, and bank one over retarded. Coolant temp I'm sure was just the sensor, and over retarded was the lack of timing chain guide. I'm thinking plugs because just cruzing it's fine only under load is it missing, but maybe it's the injectors?
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Started the M5 last night! Runs and sounds awesome
I'll be getting plates for it today after work, can't wait to put some miles on it! I'll try to get a quality video/pictures this weekend maybe. 
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T-minus 20hrs until I come home from work to $84 in oil on my garage floor lol. Hood is officially down! Just need to do stupid coolant things.
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Anyone have the socket "key" for this stupid thing? I want to take my wheels off :/
EVENT: Kart Meet and Eat, Saturday Feb 24th @ 10:00am
in Local Scene
Posted
Has anyone talked to Veloce? Is there a pre-register event code or something?