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Rowleym

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Posts posted by Rowleym

  1. Well the HPX maf would be my next switch, along with e85. Tune it yourself! its a lot of fun. But I swear I read online about partial flashes with obd2. You are using romraider correct? 

    Odb1 tuning is very easy and much cheaper, but in your boat I would go MS3 if you aren't happy with the stock ecu. SOOO much easier. 

  2. 12 hours ago, Daggerty said:

    Me I'm using kwp2000 to tune the stock ecu. 

    Im probably going to switch to MS3 

    It just takes way to long to make tiny adjustments.

    Awesome! What maf are you using? And cant you simply do partial flashes instead of sending an entire file? 

  3. MLS and O rings are used quite frequently in the import world, most domestic guys think you are crazy doing so, but results don't lie. I would have you block decked, and still do the surface prep like you did with the wd40. Going to a larger stud (1/2") is a great idea, especially with the larger 87mm bore you are using, but if a goal of 5-600whp is all you want, I wouldn't waste my time. I would go with a simple MLS gasket and mirror finish on block and head. As far as re using your old rods, I would absolutely do so. They have unlimited life for the most part, and can almost always be fixed. I would be willing to bet you don't even need to get them honed or resized, simply swap out bearings. As far as pistons go, check for skirt wear and make sure your PTW is still in spec, mainly deviation between cylinders. I'm willing to bet they are just fine. Because of the crappy tuning youve had in the past, I would be inclined to hone your block and get new rings, depending on how the bores look. Lastly, because your block and head will be decked/milled, I would look into adjustable cam gears so you can degree your cams in. Pick a head gasket that maintains proper quench of around .035-.050, but don't buy that until your block is back from being decked so you can measure from the top of the piston at TDC. 

    that should be all? 

    Looking great though! 

  4. 17 hours ago, Snap said:

    My rule would be dont bring along non-BMW/non-WIBIMMERS buddies unless they are riding in your car (dont bring the Evo club with you)

    That sounds kind of douchey but the gathering is for BMW folks and friends/members of the community. Some folks who show up to events have owned BMWs in the past but no longer do (Ryan and his P-car) or are friends of members and have been grandfathered in (Slonoma).

    Random folks from Facebook/WCEC/vapebrothersmotorsports may not be trustworthy folks to invite to a slightly-spirited drive. We have a real close-knit community here and most of us have formed good friendships from our hobby. We know and trust eachother.  Even if we dont know or trust someone, or there are new faces (which we always hope for), you could say that a true BMW enthusiasts has a better grasp on the "right place, right time" concept for spirited driving. Trust is key to help ensure safety/fun and to avoid pissing off other motorists, residents, or others we share the road with.

    We hope to see you there! just dont invite the Evo club. 

    You guys are much more fun anyways haha. Next year Ill show up in a bmw I promise! But awesome, glad its going to be an event like this. Spirited driving with people you don't trust is a not pleasant experience. 

  5. One thing is for sure, twin scroll is more easily justifiable with a 4 cyl engines. Evo engines for example, with lower power output, lets say sub 500whp, twin scroll will show little to no benefit. But you also have to understand these engines run very high drive pressures in comparison to ours. If you were going big boy turbo in this application, and want nothing more than straight line performance, single scroll is also the way to go. Twin scroll benefits largely in a street application that also wants big power, say 600+ minimum. The big borg turbo's really shine here. Its awesome to be able to say you have an 800hp 4 cyl and a very usable power band. Twin scroll also works great for people who need lower drive pressure but still want to make good power and usable powerband. AKA pump gas power. 

    As far as journal vs ball bearing, I would always choose BB if I could, but thats not always needed, and of course most times Im not willing to spend the money. Ball bearing works awesome if you need fast response with a larger turbo, such as a low pressure street turbo. It also helps a lot with transient response. But of course we ask how much? Well, if youre in the sub 500whp level, its not as noticeable. When you are using larger turbos for the setup, it only helps. For me, I will always use journal bearing twin scroll turbos in the sub 600whp range, And only will I use BB if the application NEEDS it. Lets say a street strip car that doesn't want to swap turbos between events. They say BB is better at high boost levels... well look at borgs. You don't need BB to run high boost, but it is a band aid most definitely. 

  6. When my evo build is finished, I will be officially opening up the doors for public business. Starting with fabrication, engine rebuilds, custom machining, small runs of production fabrication, Standalone installs and custom wiring harness', tuning(ONLY IF I BUILT/MODIFIED THE CAR), and of course maintenance and other upkeep on performance oriented vehicles. Specializing in all things forced induction. Just very excited for this journey, and I plan to pour my heart and soul into building quality vehicles for more than just myself now. 

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