Boris3
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Posts posted by Boris3
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I've got a 4.10 open differential, small case, I pulled from my 1991 318is. Rough guess is 250-260k on it when pulled in March 2018 for a lower mileage LSD. Drivers output shaft seal leaks, and I've noticed a bit of input shaft noise since it's been sitting. Redline 75/90 used since 2012 when I bought the car, and new bushing in 2016. Kept this thinking that I would just take apart and rebuild as a learning process but that hasn't happened.
Not sure what this is worth. SO FREE
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If you have a realoem part number search the FCP site by number rather than by car. Sometimes stuff isn't cross listed. You can also call.
I've used Pelican in the past without issue. Typically would take longer to ship given west coast location. They were bought by ECS in 2017.
I've also used Autohaus AZ in the past for a few things but have not dealt with them for a long while.
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How old is the battery? If unsure it might be worth replacing. I did mine on the 318is just before the cold snap hit. Old battery was the one that came with the car when I bought it in 2012. According to a bar code reader the battery was nine years old. Read out fine in battery tests, sluggish but always started fine, except when temps dropped below mid-20s. Much better now.
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19 hours ago, HipMF said:
If worshiping at the church of the flaming bushing isn't your style, and you're not in a rush to get started, I could send you the subframe bushing puller that I made:
If by any chance this is the Harbor Freight pitman arm puller (ground down a bit) plus plumbing pipe cap and you supply your own two/three jaw puller DIY tool, I've still got the first two pieces that were floating around the group as a shared tool a while back. It "works" as long as your bushing are not original and really stuck in there. I'd be happy to send it on to anyone who needs. I even have a new cap since I trashed the old one.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1389953-A-better-subframe-bushing-puller
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On 11/5/2019 at 9:13 AM, P_Roloff said:
I bought the centric rebuilt from turner motor sports when I snapped a bleeder on one of my stock calipers, no complaints. Everything worked well. Not sure why there’s such a significant price difference between them and FCP.
Did exactly the same ...for the same reason. Snug that bleeder a little more...doh
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49 minutes ago, Jdesign said:
Anyways. Has anyone else seen this E82 for $4k keep popping up? Are they really that cheap already? I know is an Auto base but sheesh.
Seller is using Kelly BB to price? If so still low. $4800 - $7400 private party : excellent condition at $6200, around $4k would be high end of fair or low end of good. This one looks better than that. Maybe seller just wants out or there are mechanical "surprises"?
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Yes, still have them.
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I tend to call it the "when you don't have the proper size tool and really should buy said tool rather than cheaping out" wrench. Which might explain why I never knew how to spell it. But I did already have a Harbor Freight set of them because well they were really cheap with coupon.
Anyway, the crescent 😁 wrench worked. Finished the tie rods without drama. Installed new rods and boots so didn't have to deal with what I've read is the usual nightmare of trying to separate the old inner and outer rods to reuse the old boots. Next up alignment.
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Cresant works thanks
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Oil leaks corollary: no matter how much you clean up remnants from the old leak and removing the ofh old oil will be caught up in the metal undertray and will drip on floor the day after car is off jack stands making you think new gasket is leaking...when it isn't.
On another note I'm replacing tie rods today. Does anyone actually source a 34mm crows foot to torque the inners, or do you just plumbers / big creasant wrench them tight?
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Figured out my oil leak
Replaced the passenger front window regulator and found leftovers from someone's earlier work in the bottom of the door
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Ouch, glad everyone's OK and the damage is not too bad. Up to that point looked like fun!!
What's the deal though with the guy standing in the infield, safety stewards would/should be cringing at the lack of protection if a car goes off. Death wish or is he agile when he needs to be?
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Race season is done so planning for next year begins. I might be making a suspension change on the e30 and will need an uncut passenger side strut housing, 51mm, in good shape to send in to Ground Control as a core. Anyone here have one?
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Could be he's being creative and using a plate from another car as a temporary "solution" to not having a title.
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Looks like the eBay range with brackets, bushings and sonetimes endlinks is $99-140 shipped. I can use my new stock endlinks, reuse stock brackets, figure I'd need new bushings anyway so looking local for a bar in good shape. Something in the $75 range or less would be great... or trade for a Tundra door 😜 Still have this stupid thing.
Anyway if you've got one let's talk.
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I'm looking for a suspension bump for the ZHP, anyone have a used e46 M3 front sway bar? Thanks.
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🙄 Yeah, that just didn't come across well even with the KaiserRolls save.
FWIW I'll be on a "cruise" ... just looking at the same scenery for a 50 lap stint at Blackhawk with a lot more tailgating, divebombing, and noise.
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Have fun folks! Last race of the season this weekend so unfortunately I'm out. Still want to see the garage / barn digs sometime.
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Thanks guys. Sways it is.
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So I went with Koni sports and stock ZHP springs, Lemforder front control arms and CABs, sway bar end links, added the front shock tower plates, and rear tower reinforcements. The suspension looked to be original at 156k. Shocks were all shot and FCABs were absolutely trashed.
Tie rods are next up when I get some time... along with replacing a leaking OFH gasket, a leaking PS hose, and the crunching passenger front window regulator.
I'm happy with the ride height and the ride with one exception. Still wallows/body rolls on entrance/exit ramps more than I'd like which is not a surprise given the stock ZHP springs. Is there a streetable e46 spring step up? I have the H&R sports and Bilsteins on the 318is and it's a blast on curves but you jarringly feel EVERY expansion joint/road imperfection which I don't want for the 330i.
I know that sways typically come after springs to fine tune, but to address body roll I've have been thinking of doing a slight step up for now from stock bars (23.5/18.5mm) with say an e46 m3 front sway and e46 vert rear bar (26.5/20). Anyone gone this route, or more does anyone have these bits lying around?
Car will not be tracked so don't need a big step up in spring or bars. I guess I could just drive slower but well you know...
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Thanks. After all the sight unseen "what's the lowest you'll take for it" and low ball offer emails ("it's not worth it me driving out to look if you won't take my offer"), it seemed that the few serious folks that passed on it wanted something that could carry more weight. I ended up adding more detail to the CL ad on dry weight and load capacity to try to address this. The guy that bought it contacted me by email with a name and number to arrange a meet, made no mention of low ball, drove down from the Fond du Lac area, looked it over, asked if I might have some price flexibility, I said make me an offer, he met my minimum (tired of dealing with this) price, counted out a stack of $100s, signed papers, hooked it up to his truck, done.
- KaiserRolls, Jdesign and REKIII
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3
Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum
in Members BMWs
Posted
see last post here. Revshift replies on same issue
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/suspension-unsprung/brakes-subframe-arms/253855-revshift-rtab-issues