Guest bigjae1976 Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 OK...the build started here in this thread... http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index.php?/topic/2851-e46-m3-in-whitefish-bay/ Now...started rear subframe reinforcement. I have a 3" crack on the right front mount sheet metal. Nothing major, still going to just epoxy the reinforcement plates on and call it the day. I do plan to tie in the front and rear mounting points into a tubular reinforcement from the top of the floor. I think I kind of screwed myself. Took the rear subframe apart and forgot to remove the rear axle nut. So replacing the rear wheel bearing may have to wait. Also found out my selector rod joint is no good...would explain the poor shifting...part is on order. The crack. The other 3 mounts. And its all broken down. If you get TC Kline coilovers...a WD40 bottle cap bolted to the top spring mount will keep your spring from falling out when you jack up the car. Its been a loooooong time since my caliper has been this red! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E36M3#215 Posted July 24, 2014 Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 Seeing as to how your car is in pieces when is the next time I will see you on the track Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted July 24, 2014 Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 Is all of the rear suspension/subframe aluminum?The E30 subframe with diff and axles was quite the heavy monster to install without helpers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 It looks like the subframe is steel, but the upper control arms are cast aluminum. Interesting to see how things evolve over the years, the parts look very similar to my e36 but my upper control arms are steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bigjae1976 Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Seeing as to how your car is in pieces when is the next time I will see you on the track Aug 21 at the Milwaukee Mile Is all of the rear suspension/subframe aluminum? The E30 subframe with diff and axles was quite the heavy monster to install without helpers. Nope, the only aluminum is the upper control arms. The diff was pretty heavy but doable with one person. Just need some finesse and got repertoire of curse words. jockhater2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian. Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 Aug 21 at the Milwaukee Mile Nope, the only aluminum is the upper control arms. The diff was pretty heavy but doable with one person. Just need some finesse and got repertoire of curse words. The amount of times I've dropped the diff in my E28. I know this feeling all to well. I got my diff swaps down to an hour and a half though. By myself. That was pretty fun. YoungCR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bigjae1976 Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 The amount of times I've dropped the diff in my E28. I know this feeling all to well. I got my diff swaps down to an hour and a half though. By myself. That was pretty fun. Nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian. Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 Nice!Ask C.young about our first experience. #completehelltrip YoungCR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bigjae1976 Posted August 19, 2014 Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 Installed a Momo steering wheel. And some ricing...I meant racing stripes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dastuz Posted August 19, 2014 Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 Is that the steel plate from VAC on the drivers side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted August 19, 2014 Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 Nice fat wheel, love the floor plate as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bigjae1976 Posted August 20, 2014 Report Share Posted August 20, 2014 Yup. Spray painted red. Its a big waste of money but I got it used and cheap. Just make your own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bigjae1976 Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 Installed some brake ducts. Total cost...$85. So I got some hose and flanges... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all42150/overview/ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all42142/overview/ I've had the BW backing plates on...I think they are about $100. So I basically routed the hoses like everyone else does. The wheel is an Apex ARC8 18x9.5 et 22 wheel and clears the hose at full lock. I got dual outlets on the ducts so I'm using the driver's side as a cold air intake, not sure what I'm going to do with the extra one on the pass side. So I basically zip tied the flange to the bumper opening. Ghetto? Maybe. Show car quality? Nope. Does it work? We'll see. Then I filled in the gaps with aluminum tape. I do want to plastic weld ABS into the gaps but this bumper is trashed so I'm just going to wait until replace the cover. I wouldn't do this to a DD but, IMO, fine for a track car. No need to spend $300 on a CF duct. $40 works fine. Here's the cold air intake A front end pic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 Looks like a good solution for a track car, watch out for puddles with your intake so low. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bigjae1976 Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 The OE ducts have a similar route to the air filter so it shouldn't be a huge issue. Most of all this car isn't really driven on the street much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bigjae1976 Posted September 6, 2014 Report Share Posted September 6, 2014 COOLING First time I've been able to really tax the cooling system since I've done all of the upgrade...or decontenting. Right now, I've got an OE cooling system. The goal is to provide enough cooling that will keep temps in check (260 oil, 220 water) during a 20 minute HPDE session. The only upgrades are: 1. Deleted the aux and mech fan2. Installed a SPAL fan controlled by the OE aux fan controller3. Oil diverter valve4. A/C deleted5. 100% distilled water with 1/2 bottle of water wetter Ambient temp was in the mid 80s and the humidity was atrocious. The OE oil gauge stayed right at 255 and the OE water gauge never went above the 2/3 dot. I forgot to monitor water temps in the OE cluster but I was at 180f at the end of my cool down lap. Pretty happy but I think I am still going to install a 25 row Setrab cooler mounted in front of the OE radiator. Then I will just replace the radiator and water pump (maybe) with an OE part. With the A/C out...I don't see much of a need to replace the radiator for an HPDE application. BRAKE DUCTS The seemed to work pretty well. I ran stoptech street pads instead of my usual SR34 race pads. The street pads did OK. They will usually overheat and then just have zero bite and generally suck. Last night I think the ducts kept the pads cool enough so they had a consistent feel throughout the night. No "OH S$@!!" moments! Here's a video from last night at the Milwaukee Mile...really liking the Evolve tune! Finally it feels like it has a little power! I do need to replace my front tie rods...the are seized and won't adjust. My alignment, in general, is shiet. I have to look at my UUC DSSR...3rd and 4th is tricky to get into gear. I might have it backwards (not upside down). I think I can easily break 1:18 with an alignment and clean shifting. http://youtu.be/vJf8YBMk50I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted September 6, 2014 Report Share Posted September 6, 2014 I just checked to see if you could use an EMP/Stewart water pump, unfortunately it says it fits m50/52/54, but only s50/52. I have one and it is very high quality. http://www.stewartcomponents.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=84&product_id=145 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bigjae1976 Posted September 6, 2014 Report Share Posted September 6, 2014 I just checked to see if you could use an EMP/Stewart water pump, unfortunately it says it fits m50/52/54, but only s50/52. I have one and it is very high quality. http://www.stewartcomponents.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=84&product_id=145 I had one in my 330...great unit. 80k miles and it looked brand new. Luckily the OEM components on the M3 hold up pretty good unlike the non-M E46s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bigjae1976 Posted September 21, 2014 Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 Installed some exhaust wrap on the exhaust where it passes underneath he lower control arm and rear axle boot. Trying to prevent cooking the rubber. I used exhaust wrap ($50), 2 4" hose clamps and some aluminum tape (to prevent the wrap from unraveling. We'll see how it turns out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.