gilber33
-
Posts
949 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
61
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by gilber33
-
-
1 minute ago, Jdesign said:
These are not Hella brand lights are they? Are the lenses glass?
Nooo.....They're Depo. But yes, the lenses are glass.
-
18 minutes ago, Jdesign said:
Price?
$100? All the lenses are really clean; there's just some bug guts. All the spring clips are good (the DS low beam is there, it just popped off when I was removing the bulb).
-
Put in the new swaybar last night. Godspeed off of Ebay for $90 shipped with Installation hardware.
Old one was done I would say. Also, safe bet that's where most of the front end clunks were coming from.
-
17 hours ago, Jdesign said:
Price please.
Post pics front and back too. I might be interested in them for parts.
Here's some pics. They are officially for sale now.
-
1 minute ago, Jdesign said:
Yea I would assume its a the starter cable. I just assume that since you said ground that it was one.
I assumed it was a ground. On my past Volvos all the power leads were always red and grounds were black or blue.
-
22 minutes ago, GunMetalGrey said:
I would verify that the cable in question is indeed a ground, because it looks all too much like the positive battery cable for a starter. It has the same style blade and all.
I know that they are classically on the chassis harness, but it just strikes me as odd.I think you're right. Damn. I vividly remember only bolting on one large red cable on the post (in addition to the two smaller cables on their individual posts). All the images I can find of the starter on the e30 shows two large cables on the same post; one being a large black cable. That red cable must be going to the alternator.
That would have been a really frustrating thing to diagnose. Good catch!
-
13 minutes ago, Jdesign said:
Not sure were is that ground coming from? Directly from the battery? If so that should go directly to the block.
That plug looks to be one for the brake pad sensors/liners
The ground is coming through the firewall, so I assume it must be coming from the battery. I'll look for a spot where it naturally wants to "fall".
Oh, didn't know this car had brake pad sensors. I guess I'll keep it bunched up there for now.
Thanks!
-
Two questions:
Where does this ground go?
And what is this plug for? I found it bundled up by the DS strut tower.
-
5 minutes ago, The Full Banana said:
For 80s and earlier production cars, I totally agree.
In my 242, I converted back to halogens with quality OSRAM bulbs in Hella euro housings powered by a relayed harness drawing directly from the battery and light output and pattern is excellent.
That said, get your car driving and fix the lights later! 😛
Get off my back.
With that out of the way. Fixing the lights will be plug and play if I fix the housing or just get a new set and sell these. You'll have to show me how to do a relayed harness pulling power from the battery.
-
25 minutes ago, The Full Banana said:
Knowing your preference, which is pretty close to mine, I wouldn't go over 5000K if you try HIDs. That said, quality high-wattage halogen bulbs in quality housings with a good power source (aka: relayed harness with power direct from battery) can work very very well. There is a ton of variance in light output--it's definitely not just a question of HID vs halogen.
Also some cheap (eBay) manufacturers aren't exactly accurate with their representation of color temperature. I've purchased 5500K bulbs that were really more like 6500K.
I don't think I can do HIDs. Whenever I see a car that I know didn't have HIDs from the factory I go "ew, HIDs".
-
7 minutes ago, Jdesign said:
I have DDM tuning 55w 55k in my car and I love them. Not super blue, and good light output.
If I can fix these with a new high beam assembly from Dan and able to figure out what HID bulbs I have/need I may keep the HIDs. But definitely needs a temp that has no blue to it.
My preference is halogen bulbs; I think they fit the car better.
-
4 minutes ago, straight6pwr said:
agreed, those are stock US ellipsoid plugs there
agreed, that high beam bowl is F*K'D. looks like someone couldnt get the 9005 bulb to fit in the H1 bulb spot, so they mangled it. Wow. The bulb needs to be aligned really well to get good light, so fixing that might be tough.
the light output of standard bulbs in DEPO lights is hilariously terrible. personally, I'd keep running a HID kit, even if you need to replace it. there are good cheap options out there.
because no one on the planet who sells DEPO lights actually supports them (no one sells individual parts), i bought a whole second set for parts when one of my lenses got smashed last year. i could part with an entire high beam assembly and a rear cap for the low beam, if you want to go the route of fixing them. on the flip side, if you ended switching to US ellips, i'd be interested in buying the DEPOs from you.
Would you have the high beam assembly and caps for both low beams?
I don't mind HIDs, I just don't feel like they fit the car. If I kept them, I'd need different temp bulbs; the ones in there were blue.....blue blue blue.
Otherwise, I'd take a high beam assembly with the cap and run HIDs with different temp bulbs. From my little bit of looking this morning, finding US Ellipsoids is not easy. Everything for sale are euro retrofits.
-
Looking for a set of US Ellipsoids for my e30! Need ASAP. Will trade my smoked depo smileys with HIDs (see for sale ad)
Thanks!
-
I'd like to sell or trade my Depo smoked smileys with HID's for a set of US Ellipsoids.
I'd prefer a straight trade but will sell these. They are somewhat of a project. Here's the scoop:
The headlights will come with fully functioning HID kits and bulbs (might want to replace the bulbs...I touched them). The high beams are where it's interesting. The driver side opening is chewed up a little bit. So you'd have to figure that out. If you don't want to use the HIDs, it's missing the kits covers for the housings to run standard bulbs, so you'd really need to run the HIDs as they were before.
Please see my thread for pictures of the lights and the backs of them:
I would just like some Ellipsoids to plug in and go. I'm not a fan of HIDs, that's all.
-
39 minutes ago, Jdesign said:
Yes, normally there are rubber caps on the back sides of each beam.
HIDs use a conversion harness. The ballasts plug into your existing socket, then the Ballast has a connection between the HID bulb and the ballast.
That opening does look chewed up from someone probably using the wrong bulb. Although thats bad, it shouldn't affect much. the caps seal on the backside of the light, and the spring wire that holds the bulb in will still hold the back of the correct bulb.
You shouldn't need different plugs from the car, they look like they are still the factory plugs clipped into the ballast harness.
Thank you. Well, the other downside is the spring is very broken on the bulb with the opening chewed up. lol.
Anyways, I learned that the plugs in the car are the factor plugs for US ellipsoid headlights. Soooo, my goal is now to find a set of clean US ellipsoids that I can just plug in and go. BUT, it appears those are much harder to find than the Euro ellipsoids that use entirely differently plugs.
If anyone has a set of US ELLIPSOIDS they'd like to sell, you can have my Depo smileys as a project!!!!
-
So, one thing that I needed to look at are the headlights. The PO wired up HIDs and I'm not a fan of those so I wanted to pull those out and put in standard bulbs. After looking at pictures of these lights and some of the wiring DIYs I'm afraid I may have an issue.
So, first things first it looks like I'm missing the caps on the back of the low beams. Second, it appears the plugs wired in are specific to the HID ballast or whatever it's called. Am i correct? And third, the bulb mounting on the high beam on the driver side looks screwed.
I guess I'm looking for some guidance on what to do. It seems if I keep these or get stock lights, i need different plugs from the car. But since I'm missing the caps on the low beams and the high beam retainer is messed up, I'm not sure I can reuse these lights.
-
Finally some visible progress. Everything else lately has been little things that didn't really make it feel like I've accomplished anything.
All I really need to do in the engine is bolting up the exhaust, plugs, plug wires, and radiator. New clutch master cylinder is in. Need to do the soft line between the two. Its so close.
- straight6pwr, m42b32 and jc43089
-
3
-
39 minutes ago, SteelBlue said:
Is this delphin?
I love this color. Smoked head lights look great.
Yup! That's all courtesy of the PO. I can't take credit for the headlights.
-
-
According to the seller, the subframe has already been reinforced. And when I was working on it, I believe I noticed the reinforcement plates welded in. So I'm good on that.
I think I'll get this one.
-
Stock is 20mm and most sway bar upgrades I found are 22mm.
-
14 hours ago, jc43089 said:
You need that ring for it to clamp properly. Does it show as a separate part in realoem? I can't remember if that comes with a regulator or not.
Edit: Or do you just mean it cracked but still will be in place? It is just a spacer so if it is just cracked that probably won't matter.
It crumbled into a bunch of pieces, but a friend locally came to the rescue and has the spacer and o ring.
Now, sorry if this has been asked but I tried searching the internet for reviews but couldn't find any. Has anyone used this swaybar before?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F162678681936
-
Figured out the coolant hose question. Now for another one. The little plastic ring that sits right next to the o ring on the FPR broke when I pulled it all apart. Will it still seal okay on the rail?
-
Looking for a good used crank position sensor. Let me know what you have!
Thanks
Depo Smoked Smileys with HID Kits
in Parts For Sale
Posted
Baller. Used Hella lights on eBay are pricey. Not sure what the lens difference would be, but I'm sure there's something.