SteelBlue
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Posts posted by SteelBlue
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You're welcome for the lip.
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Damn, car looks awesome. Rear end came out great.
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1 hour ago, Earl said:
If the ICV isn't buzzing, the car won't start. Triple check all of your grounds too. They can cause a lot of no start issues.
Really? because I've read that it shouldn't be necessary, but I could be wrong. It definitely is not responsive though, so maybe?
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6 hours ago, YoungCR said:
ICV should be buzzing with the key on. Here's the guide I've been using to try to sort out my No-Start issues.
http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Engines_Troubleshoot
Appreciate this, Will use this next time.
Unfortunately, after about 8 hours of trouble shooting today, not really anywhere closer to the engine starting.
CPS tested in the range for resistance. Noticed it was a little further away from the teeth so we adjusted the bracket to move it closer.
ICV and TPS were plugged in correctly. ICV still not humming when turned on, but for starting purposes I don't think this would not allow it to.
After awhile of chasing the no spark issue, we thought we had determined the ignition coil to be the issue (tested out of the normal range suggested in the bentley manual). We went to Ben's shop to grab the coil from his E to get a working one. However, this one tested even further out of the suggested range, but his car had been running before it was parked a couple weeks ago. Ignition coil did not solve the problem. Confirmed that it was getting 12 volts. We tried grounding a spark plug connected to the coil plug to confirm if we were getting spark. We would get a small spark when the key was turned to the on position, but not when the motor would crank. After Ben had a convo with Snap we determined that it might not be letting the ignition coil charge, therefore not sparking. We resistance tested the rotor and it fell just slightly out of the suggested range. I honestly can't remember of testing the cap but I'm pretty sure it cleared (so many tests that I'm losing track). Both the rotor and cap contact points were cleaned with a scotbrite. Basically, should be getting power through the ignition system (wires? I don't know its been a long day) but is not firing.
We wanted to test to see if fuel was being delivered when it was cranking. Pulled off the fuel feed line and was greeted with a pressurized gas shower in the face, eyes, mouth, and shirt, so that was fun. Then tried cranking the motor with the feed line into a bucket, but was not sending any fuel. Ben was able to jump the fuel pump from both the relays and fuse, so its confirmed to actually work, the computer/car is just not aware of it working. Not sure if this is an M20 thing but Ben found it odd, is there supposed to be continuity on two pins(holes? whatever the relay plugs into) on all three relays, for the fuel pump? After lots of multi meter testing that was the odd conclusion to the night that we ended at.
I hope Ben chimes in as his description of what we did/tested will be more accurate than what I have typed. Also, big thanks to him for all of his help last night and today. Would have made a fraction of the progress had he not helped me. Also thanks to Snap for answering Ben's phone calls.
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Crank position sensor is good, read at 537. Icv and tps plugged in correctly, these would be hard to mess up considering how much shorter one wire is than the other. ICV is unresponsive when I turn the key all the way forward before trying to turn it over. No buzzing or vibrating, not sure if this would stop at a potential start
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5 hours ago, KaiserRolls said:
Fuel send and return are hooked up correctly? Not backwards?
Sounds kind of like a crank position sensor issue. Just turns over and over with no firing.
Some how the send line was labeled "RETURN", double checked that before trying to fire. Sure enough, that was the send line. Fixed the routing on them. The return line is not hooked up right now, just empties into a bucket on the floor. I've read that not having fuel pressure can cause no starts?
Going to do a resistance test on the CPS today. As well as fuel and spark tests. Gonna double check the TPS and ICV too.
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On 8/18/2016 at 6:00 AM, Snap said:
The 4 to be cautious of:
The positives that go to the block on the firewall and not mixing any of those up with the ground wire on the strut tower,
I am pretty sure that both of our grounds are correct, but will double check with these.
The idle control valve and TPS are often mixed up. Check that you can hear/feel the idle control valve humming with the ignition on to know if that is correct.
I am pretty sure that Ben checked to make sure that this was happening when we were doing our preliminary troubleshooting, but will also double check.
The crank sensor and cylinder id sensor (inductive pickup from spark plug wire) are often mixed up too. If you didnt mark those then its really trial and error. Id the engine cranks and doesnt start, switch those around
We checked online to see what the order of the plugs were, as well as them being labeled on the wire, but I am going to super double check this one because this currently our issue.
To address Snaps prior post
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Coil overs for the car were purchased. They are JOM's with very few miles driven on them and we got a great deal on them. Rear strut mounts are shot so new ones have been ordered, will be installing once new hardware arrives.
Ben and I got the wiring harness all hooked up tonight. Started cranking, but no start. It is definitely getting fuel, but unsure of anything else at this point. Will definitely need to check to make sure it is getting spark, make sure all the fuel rail connections are secure, plug connections are secure, firing order is correct, etc. Will have to retrace our footsteps to see if we maybe made any stupid mistakes, potentially something not correctly hooked up by the ECU? Ben pulled the harness connection from the ECU to make it easier in the bay for a couple things, so the two remaining wires might not be properly connected? Both of the ground wires are connected, all of the sensors should be mated correctly, so my assumption (a poor one at that) is that there might be a spark issue? Who knows, time to start researching and trouble shooting.
If anyone has any M20 noob trouble shooting suggestions, please post away. Or come to Appleton and help, food and beer will be provided!
Fuel feed and return are routed like that only for potential starting purposes, so ignore that. Also the new booster hose needs to be trimmed.
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This is now the E build thread
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21 minutes ago, Snap said:
All 3 of us running/driving M20 guys are pretty busy
Fixing said M20's?
- DrLeadFoot, suspenceful and B C
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I appreciate the help gentlemen.
@KaiserRolls We just hastily unplugged everything when we were originally pulling it, so we only marked a few things. In hindsight, this was not a good idea. That's the way of the road though.
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Motor is back in the car. Trans is all hooked up an mounted. If any of the resident M20 experts wants to make a trip to the Fox Valley area, we will wine and dine you for your knowledge of M20 wiring harnesses. I'd say we probably know where 60% of it goes, but are unsure about the rest.
Car is close to starting, probably one more solid afternoon/night of connecting the wiring/hoses before its ready to (hopefully) start.
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2 hours ago, KaiserRolls said:
Fresh paint means it's rebuilt (craigslist logic)
It's actually a race prepped M20, bro.
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We do actually still work this, albeit not a ton in the past couple of weeks. However, last night we did make a good amount of progress. As soon as the clutch/flywheel and the transmission is mounted to the motor it will be ready to go back in. Probably would have been this coming weekend if I weren't leaving for vacation on Saturday morning. Hopefully the following week.
Also noting, we pressured washed the bay as well as pulled some of the unnecessary crap out. Also pressured washed the block. But we are morons and did it right next to the car, so the whole driver side is covered in a bunch of the crap that was on the block. It’s going to need another good wash after it gets running.
Actually looks like something now.
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Just now, GunMetalGrey said:
I'm glad that I can make your day!
I have starting working on a little compilation of videos that shall be posted soon, don't you worry.Based on this threads timeline, I'll check back in October 2017
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4 minutes ago, KaiserRolls said:
The hellaflushness gave it away
I'm sponsored by StanceNation, bro.
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Just now, KaiserRolls said:
Were those wheels on a s52 swapped compact by chance?
Yes they were.
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1 minute ago, Earl said:
Would need camber to fit right too haha. 17's are usually small on an e46 unless you're crazy super low (even then they look a hair small). 18's seem like the way to go =)
Yeah, would definitely need a roll and pull to fit the rears. 10.5" is just a little wide. The LM reps were 9.5" and they fit perfectly.
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Was at my buddy's house last night and he had these 3 piece reps still after he sold the car that they were on. Figured why not throw them on and see what they look like on the car. I wish I hadn't sold my LM reps. I'm not a fan of the style of these wheels and the amount of stretch are on these, but the lips look really good, would need to come down lower to fit right.
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On 7/13/2016 at 9:41 PM, Snap said:
Wow, ive only ever seen photos of them with dark wheels the rear wing extended and a lower ride height. Looks like perhaps the suspension may be lifted in a towing mode but maybe its just the camera angle. Sweet find regardless
Suspension is definitely raised for more ground clearance.
Nice to see one with Wisconsin plates.
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3 hours ago, Snap said:
Swapping out an S14 for an M20 makes sense to me. There are fewer valves so technically less could go wrong, valve adjustments would be completed more quickly (time is money), and the engine code has an "M" to match the badge on the trunk.
Logic checks out
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12 minutes ago, m42b32 said:
Almost an M3...lol
Lifted E30 V2
in Members BMWs
Posted
You treat her right, Ben.
pls