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Andrew

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Posts posted by Andrew

  1. I caught up to a straight piped E90 335d with a tow hook in the rear bumper on county O north of Saukville yesterday morning in my M3.  It was just tooling along the curvy roads, then blasted off and rolled coal after the next stop sign.

  2. Dang.  I wish i would have spotted this earlier; I would've timed it with visiting family in Asheville.  I've driven through Hot Springs and I never would have guessed there would be a BMW event there.  Beautiful roads and beautiful mountain landscape.

  3. I've accumulated a pile of stock parts as i've modified my 2002 M3 and i'd like to see them put to use instead of collecting dust.  

    Stock exhaust manifolds/headers (taken off @ ~92k) miles-$350

    Stock muffler (taken off @ ~92k) miles-$50, local sale only at this time

    Stock front struts+springs  (taken off @ ~90k) miles-$150

    Stock rear springs (taken off @ ~90k) miles-$50

    Stock rear shocks (taken off @ ~90k)-$40

    Stock rear camber arms- $30

    Shipping not included in prices

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  4. On 3/29/2022 at 10:31 PM, wasnt m3 said:

    I've had them on a few cars over the years. Nothing newer than 96, however. There is no emissions testing after the first time, if they even request that first time. The one time registration fee and no subsequent renewals is a huge plus if you plan to keep the car. What is the car in question? 

     

    I have an 02' M3.  I want to get a CSL style airbox, and i think i'd like to run it with a MAP sensor instead of alpha N.  From what i understand, changing the ECU to be able to run the MAP sensor will make the car unable to communicate properly with emissions equipment, which is problematic.

  5. Does anyone here have hobbyist plates?  What is the emissions testing schedule (for counties that test emissions) for a vehicle newer than 1996 that has hobbyist plates?  Is there any testing required after the initial test you have to do within 45 days of getting the plates?  They're ugly, but they seem to have some perks.  Asking for a friend... 

  6. mugatu.gif

    Haha.  Apparently it's not as obviously different as i thought.  I still firmly believe that this is a unique sounding S85, not just loud.

    On 10/1/2018 at 8:59 AM, Jdesign said:

    Equal length long tube headers into a single collector usually create that more harmonious sound at full tilt. It sounds damn good. Then again, I find pleasure in sounds of just about any explosion whether its a 3 cylinder Mirage or a 16 cylinder Cizeta. 

    It probably does have headers of some sort, but how they are merged i do not know.  

    On 10/1/2018 at 11:46 PM, wasnt m3 said:

    Seems like the video has been speed up slightly.

    I hope i havent been fooled by a little video editing.  Though I have found videos where it has the same shriek.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1guFUeqq5g&

  7. I bring you this E46 M3 with a glorious sounding S85 V10.

    https://youtu.be/1Zb7i5zLe5k

     Apparently its a drift car driven by a fella named Luke Fink.  It sounds awesome.  In fact, I think it sounds way awesomer than an S85 normally sounds.  Now I know exhaust notes are a subjective thing, so no one has to agree with me, but i prefer the sound of an even firing V10 (LFA, Carrera GT, 5.0 gallardo) to the sound of an odd firing V10 (BMW S85, 5.2 Gallardo, viper).  Somehow, the builders of this drift car have managed to make this S85 sound more like an even firing v10.   I suspect they accidentally did something with the header & exhaust lengths to make the exhaust pulses behave more like an even firing engine.  What are your theories on how they have achieved this sound?
     

  8. A little update on a major operation.  Lot's of parts have been removed...

    pile o parts.jpg

    TO FIND THIS!!!  I've had a tank that leaks when more than half full or when I corner hard right for a long time.

    golden shower.jpg

    Not for long:)

    new tank.jpg

    The diff is out because I also bought a low mile 4.10 LSD to replace my noisy 4.10 open diff:)

    Also, my driveshaft U-joints are pretty notchy.  Anyone know of a good place that can rebuild them?

     

  9. I haven't been running a front plate on the 30, but I think this thread might be convincing me to run a front plate since at least half the people who've responded have been pulled over for it.  I don't need to be rolling probable cause.

    I just want to say that Doppler does not imply RADAR or LIDAR or any particular part of the electromagnetic system.  It's just an effect.  It is an effect that can be observed with multiple types of waves light, sound ect.  Also, a nice flat metal plate on the front of your car is probably pretty good at reflecting back a RADAR signal, probably LIDAR too.  

  10. On 3/13/2017 at 10:33 AM, GunMetalGrey said:

    This thread confuses me. Why do you need to change the end on the stock battery cable? 
    Or is it not stock. 

    Yes, the end on the cable is NOT stock, which is the source of all my issues.

    Using the SAE to JIS adapter, i'm able to make a stock size battery fit.  I couldn't orient the adapter the way i wanted, but this orientation doesn't put the cable under much strain.  And now it's held down with the OEM clamp.  It's better now.  Hopefully good enough for a tech inspector.

    IMG_5628_small.jpg

  11. 1 hour ago, straight6pwr said:

    yup, exactly what i pictured.  be careful on those adapters, though, they may have a different post size which your cable wont clamp to.

    I think i'll try this combo.  JIS post looks small and tapered, but they make shims to adapt to SAE post.

    JIS to SAE post small.png

     

  12. 10 hours ago, Snap said:

    Yay for doing things on the e30

    Yay indeed.  This is one of two things i need to fix at a minimum before i track it.  The other being, why does my tank leak fuel when more than half full, or when i corner hard right...  I've decided that i will have to commit seppuku if i dont track this car this year.

    seppuku-o.gif

  13. I'm finally trying to secure my battery properly (trunk mounted battery in an 89 325i), but i've got a bit of an issue.  The battery cable that is currently on the car does not appear to have the correct terminal on it, which means that it wont work with the proper battery (group 48?) The correct one is pictured below on the left (it has a unique 90 degree drop thingy), and the one that I have is similar to the one on the right (it's just straight).  Can I buy the correct end and crimp it on (i suspect not), or do i have to buy a whole new cable?  The problem with having the straight terminal is that it can't make the tight 90 degree corners in the battery well to connect to the positive terminal of the correct battery, which means i cant use the correct battery tie down.  The alternative is that i use a completely different battery and fabricate my own battery hold down.  This seems easier to me right now, but i value your opinions.

    02_E30Cableend.jpg IMG_5520.JPG

     

     

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