E36 M3 front steering problem

[LF(E36)M3]

Has any one had a floating or drifting feeling in the front steering at higher speeds. Wondering if its something as simple as control arm bushing or alignment. Or if its something more with the steering itself like the rack or tie rods any input would be grate thanks

[B C]

Floating/drifting (not to be confused with rage drifting) is going to be caused by unequal and fluctuating forces at the contact patches. 

The main cause of this is a change in alignment which changes how the contact patch interfaces with the road.

First up.  The toe setting on the alignment. this is most likely the culprit but the basic toe setting at an alignment shop is not always the only reason for toe being out of spec.

An alignment can show proper spec on paper but when actually driving down the road, the toe can fluctuate due to worn bushings, worn ball joints, worn tie-rods, loose steering rack mounting hardware, frame damage, abnormal tire wear.

 

In most cases new control arms with new ball joints, lower control arm bushings, and an alignment will cure it completely

[patsbimmer1]

Like Snap said, alignment is going to be your most common cause and worn suspension parts are usually the cause of the improper alignment.  In this instance, without test driving it I would have to say the lower control arm bushings or the lower steering shaft would be the cause.  

 

If you wanted to bring it by I can take a look at it for you.  I was ASE certifed A4 (steering and suspension) and A5 (brakes) in a not so long ago life and specialized in ride control concerns for the past 6 years.

[B C]

 I was ASE certifed 

Mechanic A says Pat is to blame.

Mechanic B says to do a burnout.

 

Who is right?

A) Mechanic A

B )Mechanic B

C) Both A & B

D) Neither A nor B

[patsbimmer1]

Mechanic A says Pat is to blame.

Mechanic B says to do a burnout.

 

Who is right?

A) Mechanic A

B )Mechanic B

C) Both A & B

D) Neither A nor B

I hated these damn questions...

 

C.... the answer is always C.

[LF(E36)M3]

Thanks for all the info guys. I have access to a lift this weekend and will check things out and go from there i know my lower front bushings need to be done so i may do them and see if that helps.

[patsbimmer1]

To check the lower steering shaft just have a friend helping just have them knock the steering wheel back and forth in quick short movements while you put your hand on it from underneath.  It's easier to replace than it looks.

[B C]

Are the steering flex disks on an e36 riveted or bolted? On the e30 I had to drill the rivets out and replace them with bolts

[patsbimmer1]

the disc is riveted to 2 splined couplers.  The part that goes bad most often is the u-joint end of the steering shaft opposite of the flex disc.  I replaced both when I did mine though since the flex disc looked a bit suspect.

[patsbimmer1]

I think I have a video of it on my instagram (not a shameless follow me plug)

[LF(E36)M3]

A vid is awesome. What is the disc u are talking about i cant find it on real oem??

[B C]

If you see listings for a "fit bolt" or wave washer then those are the replacement hardware that go into the flex disk when a riveted disk is replaced

[LF(E36)M3]

Ok

[LF(E36)M3]

took a look under the car today the controle arms look good and the rack looked to be mounted tight no play or anything in that or the tie rods. did replace the lower controle bushings on both arms they were pretty well shot. so hopping that will help with the stearing. will still get a alinement done. while i had it up i checked the stearing shaft, the joints seem good but i can twist the whole thing a little eather way not shur if that normal or not. the back lower controle arms seem like the bushing that is at the wheel might be bad?? i can twist the arm down where it conects to the wheel, again im not shur if thats supost to have any play in it or not but i will probobly look in to changing them out anyway as im shur they are just as old as the front controle bushings were.

[B C]

Its not my job to critique spelling errors but that was quite the post!

Tie rod will twist a few degrees forward and backward due to the intentional movement of the balljoint. It should not have axial freeplay. To simplify everything, you should not have any freeplay in any direction when grabbing the tire with both hands at 6:00 and 12:00 (positions, not times of the day) and again at 9:00 and 3:00, then by lifting up as if to compress the strut.

[LF(E36)M3]

yaaa spelling is not my thing lol. but thanks for the info