ThatRatRodProject
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Posts posted by ThatRatRodProject
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Did you recently do an oil change?
You may want to look into cleaning the vanos solenoid(s). I dont want to send you on a wild goose chase with unnecessary tasks, but its fairly simple and worth looking into
I will definitely be doing this I'm not due for a oil change yet but I'm going to do one today to try to remove any possible reasons why it would be acting up. Thanks for the response.
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I've had a issues with the forum not working properly. And I'm pressed for time on fixing the problem just wanted inside as soon as possible.
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So I had check engine light for the secondary air pump. Witch was one of three things. The pump the evap valve and the control switch. Turns outs the pump and vacuum control switch. So I got everything in that system to checkout and work. But immediately after fixing this problem. I got another code a POO11. I guess I'm wondering is this is because of something that I did. I look up symptoms of a faulty cam sensor. And I do not have any symptoms that point to a faulty cam sensor. I took pictures of Live stream data at idle about two grand and at four grand.
Any information or pointers would be great.
Can personally message me at 262 483 0545.
Or respond on the forum.
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Fyi, maximum allowable runout is typically .002".
Run out on the diameter or being true to its self
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saying the e30 rear brakes are under-powered is a bit of a internet myth. with upgraded pads are very capable of locking up the brakes without much effort.
however, if your rat rod is going to weigh more than a stock e30 its a good idea. either way, I love creative ideas and will love to see this accomplished.
They are not under powered but in track use the suffer from heat soke
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I think he's talking about some kind of hub spacer. Even using the screw to hold the rotor on won't guarantee it's centered correctly. Honestly, you don't even need that screw in there if the rotor is hubcentric. Those screws are usually only there for manufacturing purposes so it doesn't hit someone in the head going down the line. GM uses virgin clips instead of the screw.
Correct it won't guarantee that it's in the exactly the correct location but I feel confident that it would be with in + or - .010 which will be well within centered.
I do also agree that the screw is not needed. And is mostly for the assembly line.
But I was trying to think of options with doing a budget build. The rotor is only about .03 to .04 a side bigger on the hub where it locates so make a spacer would be extremely hard to manufacturer and to ensure that the spacer would be parallel and round. In the event that this does work. Haveing to make a spacer would increase the price of the swap.
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Interesting idea! It definitely would be a nice option since there really isn't a 'cheap' rear brake upgrade. One thing I would recommend is using some sort of machined spacer/ring to take up the space between the rotor and the hub and properly center the rotor. If you just rely on the lugs you could get some nasty vibration because the rotor won't self center when you have a wheel attached
I do agree with you on the locating. I believe I had mentioned that I would use the original hole to hold the rotor in location after the lugs are not in place.
yes I will have to add the hole in the correct location Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Very interesting, most folks reach for FC rx7 brakes for budget 4x100 upgrades
I wonder how close they are to each other
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So I am using a e30 rear end and sub frame. For my hot rod build. Know that the rear breaks are under powered and not big enough. I started thinking if the front brakes from a 325i e30 would fit.
They both have the same size hub centric ring to locate the rotor on the wheel bear which is a plus.
So then knowing that the front rotor fits I grab my front caliper. I all ready know that I will need a adapter to mount the caliper. But there is not enough room. For one it didn't sit far enough on the rotor and two there was not enough clearance on the a-arm.
So at this point I know I need a 4x100 lug pattern and a bigger size rotor with the same size thickness rotor. Which made me think that there was very few options available.
Well I used to own a Mini Cooper S and remembered I had a set of rotors sitting on my shelves. So I grab one from the rack and started comparing them.
So everything checks out but one thing. The hub centric ring on the rotor is bigger then the wheel bearing which is not the end of the world. I will have to use the set screw that holds the rotor on when the lugs are not in place. But any who is used the lugs to locate for now. And I am quite impressed with as little work that needed to be done so far.
So with everything being said. I think this is a very possible option. And obviously the e brake is no longer available. I still need to collect some measurements and draw up a proto type but it should take very little modification to make work.
Thought and opinions would be great. If any one is truly interested. I am willing to make up a extra set of brackets after I get everything test fitted. But I will not be able to test them till my project is complete. Which will be a reasonable amount of time.
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I think he was referencing the 1936-40 328.The new style or oldYeah that's what I thought but either way I couldn't any on the Internet
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yeah, do a 190s 328 homage grill for this thing, would be awesome.
The new style or old
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Up date:
I test fitted the body on to the frame today and I have to say it fitted very nicely. I have the front suspension picked out. I will be ordering that this week so I can get started on the front set up.
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You should turn that massive front grill into a kidney grill.
Looking good so far!I have been thinking about how I can add some bmw looks to this thing.
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Today I started on the steel frame. Basing it off the wood proto type.
To make the bends I made slit cutts. To make it easy to bend.
Then I made an opps an over bend and welded a rail. So I re cut it open and bent it back
- B C and Bassboy3313
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Did some work today got a wooden mock up frame done. no where close to done. But it's a start.
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Better pictures. I havent had alot of time to look at the car.
But here is some rough body lines. And a front look. I hope your as excited as I am.
- Bassboy3313 and suspenceful
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Looks like a solid body!
Very solid rust free
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Alright these are the first pictures of the body. I will have more when I get it off the trailer.
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i don't know how i missed this thread when it started. Just stumbled on this today. Car looks awesome dude
Same
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I keep hearing Olds, but I see no Olds...
Anyway, if it's from the late 30s or early 40s the e30 chassis could be closer to the right size. Normally I prefer traditional, "period-correct" rods and customs, but definitely approve of the idea. At least it's better than taking some 40s car and putting it on an S-10 chassis... never understood that one. I get it, it's about the right size, body-on-frame construction, and cheap... but it's also... an S-10... not generally know for their handling, comfort or cool-factor.
I am picking up the Olds mobile on Friday. I will post pictures. I promise.
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Here are the rough pictures of the 540i. I will be doing a part out on very select items. I will make a Craigslist post. Getting really excited.
I know I have had a couple people not ask why I am not using the 540i chassis and that is for two reasons.
1. The vehicle does not have a title. There for registering it will not be fun.
2. I'm doing this for the experience. I want to fabricate as much as I can. I enjoy the prototyping and figuring out another way to to things. Yes I could chopping the body off and weld one on.
I've seen that done with a e36 it was cool. But not safe.
Yes I give the guy credit for the build for say. But me personally. I would not want to do it sketchy. Do it right the first time.
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Yes it would be easier to use the 540i chassis. But the vehicle is coming with a junk title. So it will no longer be able to be registered. And yes I am going to take advantage of the bigger brake and use them. For the suspension and chassis. Most of it will be tube steel and fabricated.Very interesting project. I'm just wondering, why not just use the 540i for the chassis? Seems like the e30 chassis would be too small(particularly narrow and short) for the Olds body. Not to mention the benefit of larger brakes, suspension components, wheel options, and saving lots of time not having to swap engines and necessary swap parts.I have some rough proto types I will
Post pictures.
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Very interesting project. I'm just wondering, why not just use the 540i for the chassis? Seems like the e30 chassis would be too small(particularly narrow and short) for the Olds body. Not to mention the benefit of larger brakes, suspension components, wheel options, and saving lots of time not having to swap engines and necessary swap parts.
Yes it would be easier to use the 540i chassis. But the vehicle is coming with a junk title. So it will no longer be able to be registered. And yes I am going to take advantage of the bigger brake and use them. For the suspension and chassis. Most of it will be tube steel and fabricated.
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Damn it! You've already gotten it wrong! Now we have to disown you!
E46 help. Please
in BMW Discussion
Posted
Is it common that the vanos solenoid fails or that it just gets dirty.
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