jc43089
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Posts posted by jc43089
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Yea not looking to do anything wild, its a going to be a 60 year old guys daily driver. Once I got him going on BMW's there's no stopping him, he keeps picking them up super cheap on CL.
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Here's a couple pics of the block.
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This is for an m52b28, aren't they a little different? At least the ports under the intake manifold are different, m50 has 3 ports, m52 has 2 ports because of combo ECU and dash temp sender. Or I could be confused.
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Kinda was my thought, but I do have the head pulled already so it would be pretty easy to put a new one on. Any good sources for reman or used heads? I have bought 2 from clearwater cylinder heads out of California and they do a good job, an m50 head was 850$ 4 years ago and an m20 head was 650$ a few months ago from them. Does that seem reasonable?
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OK so a guy from work picked up a 4/98 e36 sedan for about a grand knowing it had headgasket/head problems. 215k, black/black, AT, pretty good condition for age, a little surface rust but overall good. He would like to just use it for a daily driver. Engine ran good before teardown, just intermittent temp spikes from the leakage. It had been worked on by a mechanic that doesn't know BMW's, replaced a couple hoses, new water pump, thermo, and fan clutch and thought that would fix it. I told him I would work on it for him, started tearing it down, head has 2 cracks, cyls 2 and 3 from exhaust valve seat to coolant passage. Cylinder bores look good, no step at the top, no scratches, haven't measured the bore yet bot honing marks are still there. Problem is that there is a ton of nast in the coolant passages of the block. Looks like aluminum corrosion that migrated from the head. My question for you guys is do I just flush out he water jacket on the block as best I can and drop a good head on. Or find a used running engine and swap in. I don't think its worth tearing down the bottom end for a full rebuild as the money really starts flowing then. I don't have a problem with doing the work as I have done a full rebuild on an m50 and m20. I will get a few pics up so you can see what it looks like tomorrow. And let this be a warning to everyone, maintain your cooling system!!! Cracked heads around the exhaust valves are from hotspots due to corrosion buildup in the coolant passages. Change your coolant to keep its corrosion inhibiting properties good.
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Sounds good, the build looks great. I just keep reading these and wanting to tear mine apart and get crazy.
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I rented a pilot bearing puller from oreillys when I did my clutch and the end was too big to fit into the bearing. I used a contraption such as yours except just clamped a vise grip on the end of a rod and pounded on that with a hammer. Also way back you said you needed an m50 starter, I assume you probably have one by now but if not I have an extra that you could save big money on.
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Date/time? I have a strange work schedule but if I'm off I would make the trip.
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Looks good, I like the shelves, gotta have high storage in a small garage. I'll try to get some pics on here of my garage shortly. I have alot of storage up high to keep stuff out of the way.
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A buddy of mine has the same car and has it blacked out. It looks great, I will try to get him on here to post up some pics/details.
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Great idea, a suggestion I have is that replying should be limited to reviews of service from customers, and posts from the OP about specials etc. Not really fair to the OP to publicly barter over price/personal deals etc.
- YoungCR and rampelsauce
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When you put the plastic skirts on do the jacking holes line up with the ones in the body? I have a 94 and might put some on. Just curious because bavauto sells some plastic skirts but warns that the holes will not line up.
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Check over your PCV system, I've seen a couple that are super clogged, lines, catch can, etc, mostly from short trips causing condensation buildup. Clogged PCV will cause higher crankcase pressures which forces oil past seals.
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I did some research on this a few weeks back and apparently the annealing that happens to aluminum at even the low temperatures of powder coating can change the strength/brittleness. Especially forged wheels that are relying on the strength of the material vs the amount of material. I don't think PC on most stock/beefy wheels is much of a problem though.
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Sounds ok to me but I need a red and silver of the same size/style so I can use them together.
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I'll wait until you have the red. Just post again when you have some available. Thanks!
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I would like one red and one silver please, are you taking paypal or what do you prefer?
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Nice, had you checked it before the manifold swap?
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"ensure extremely quiet and turbine like running." Ahhhmazing.
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I would value that car at about $5000.
It is a 633 with some fake badging, cheap wheels, crappy Fuzion tires, and nothing entirely special about it.
I am only being pessimistic about it because I get the feeling they are trying to fool people into thinking it is a real rare machine.
Its not a Alpina by any means. The only Alpina parts are the gauge cluster face (but not the gauges) and the badges on the rear. Otherwise is a standard 633CSI
If the mileage is really that low, Its closer to the $8-10k range, but with its somewhat crappy looking condition $5-7k would be better. E24's do fetch a pretty penny in the right conditions but their asking price reflects that of a B7, not a 633CSI.
Good to know guys, thanks!
Glad a real Alpina wasn't treated this badly, it looks rough underneath.
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'79 Alpina B7 for sale near me in dubuque, IA. less than 30k miles. Looks pretty clean. Read the ad though it may be a replica. I am not very familiar with these so not sure what to look for. If anyone is interested I drive past it for work every day and can get more pics.
http://www.dubuqueautoplaza.com/Used/BMW/633/633-633-Dubuque-IA-5525167-wdi.cfm
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I like it, are your wheels painted or powdercoated?
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Beautiful car, welcome!
Fox Valley e30 awd
in New Member Introduction
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Sharp car. Whats the story on the fender flares?