jc43089
-
Posts
3423 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
48
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by jc43089
-
-
E34 or early e36 is going to be m50, vs. late e36 are m52, I prefer OBD1 as they are much simpler, better mileage, no smog pump, etc.
-
May need to bleed a couple times, but always let it cool before taking the expansion tank cap off. Let it cool and just crack the bleeder loose. I did a conversion to the euro/e30 overflow on an e36 and will be doing it to mine this winter. No idea why they went to a manual bleed system from a self bleeding design.
-
I emailed him yesterday and today, hasn't gotten back to me. You probably know this but if he says head gasket bad it means the head is cracked. If he responds I was going to pick it up to fix.
-
Also try putting the torx bit in the screw and then tapping on it with a hammer before trying to turn it, sometimes the jarring will help.
-
I say go for the e34. I love my e36 but they are everywhere, not necessarily a bad thing, but especially if it's between those two cars the e34 looks nicer in my opinion. Arctic gray on black is the way to go. Somewhat depends on what you want to do with it, you are already aware that an e36 performance build will be cheaper, but for an all original car it's probably not much different. Depends what your long term intentions are?
-
Ridiculous, I love it. A hundred grand for yo civic.
-
Was wondering the same lol
I think this is the only ///M related thing I own besides a t-shirt, snagged this out of the trash at work!
If you happen to find another one in the trash I would take it off of your hands. Who throws that away???
-
Are they hard plastic? They look stiff, I have rallyarmor urethane ones and they are nice and bendy.
-
Nice video, I hadn't seen that before, thanks for posting.
-
I like the mudflaps, what brand are they?
-
Good choice on the actual shirts too. Made in USA.
-
Got mine today, awesome!
-
If only you worked on your car as much as this game...haha
-
Oh earlier you said it was for an e39 m5. Do you need studs for the manifold to head or manifold to downpipe? If you can put the exhaust manifolds on the head before putting it in the car do it. I found out it's very difficult to put the manifolds on with the engine in the car.
-
Not sure, also a very low mileage e30 vert 5spd
http://madison.craigslist.org/cto/4067805331.html
And nice e39 m5
-
Hopefully pulling engine, dropping both subframes and doing some rust repair and welding in subframe reinforcments. Or it will just sit there until next year...
-
-
Bleeding is not as difficult as it is made out to be, a slight upward incline can help. I drill a 1/16" hole in the thermostat at the highest point possible, some brands come with a hole already and the tiny hole does not flow enough during normal operation to affect anything. I would recommend BMW blue coolant or Evans NPG (the Evans is more work because the system must be flushed and all water removed so it's not really feasible unless doing major work already), both will protect against corrosion better and the Evans is lifetime coolant. Use a bottle of Redline "Water Wetter" or Royal Purple "Purple Ice" if using regular green/yellow coolant for additional corrosion protection.
-
Maybe someone else has more info but I think you are supposed to use an e34 m5 clutch. I have the UUC flywheel with oem sachs m5 (which is a sprung hub) clutch and pressure plate but I think its for an e34. Not sure if the UUC flywheel is different to accommodate the different clutch, I didn't try fitting the stock pressure plate over the dowels.
-
So I only need the larger lifters? I only have the cams and trays that I got from Dan. Might stroke it later but just going to do the cam for now.
-
Installing m54b30 intake cam in my m50, Never torn down a top end on one of these so I have a couple questions.
What method do you guys use to remove/install cams?
Pelican DIY seems pretty easy/straightforward, is there a better way?
With my current obd1 head realoem shows different springs, upper spring plates, and lifters. Anything else I am going to find different? Also anyone have some of this stuff laying around?
-
So we do the yard work and you do the rustling, seems fair enough.
-
So it has to do with saving big money?
- KaiserRolls and B C
-
2
-
Sorry it took so long, here are some pics of one of these in action. Differences in both the butt dyno and eyeball oil cleanliness testing. Seriously though, nice work, looks like it should hold up great.
Yet ANOTHER Noob from Milwaukee -- Looking to replace suspension
in New Member Introduction
Posted
The pressure prevents boiling on a hot engine, mine just did not seem to like it, if I opened it hot, I kept getting more air to be bled out, not sure why. Could be that when it gets closed again while hot it will then draw air in when it cools as the coolant contracts, I would think it should draw in at the cap when there is a vacuum in the system which would cause no issues, maybe I need a new cap. Once it is bled its not ever an issue. The level in the overflow will be off of the line except when the car is completely cold.