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Found 43 results

  1. I figured I'd start a progress/build thread for my e30 like I did for the e36! I posted about the car before but for the sake of completeness: It's a 1991 318is slicktop in Alpine white with an Indigo cloth interior. It was built on April 26th, 1991 which I believe is the very end of production for the e30 coupe so thats pretty cool. It spent most of it's life in Florida so it is basically rust free but like most old southern cars a lot of the plastics are very faded and brittle. I am planning on doing an OEM+ build and just bringing it back to its former glory. On to the pics! I tried to get the color of the door panels but the camera didnt pick it up too well, I have never seen this color before but I think it looks pretty cool After a nice cleaning The seats have definitely seen better days (the rear seat is trashed) and the carpet is mostly torn out, other than that and a few other little things the interior is actually in pretty good shape. The dash is 99% crack free with only a tiny one in the tray above the glove box. I am planning on removing those white face gauge stickers (hard to see here) as soon as I can as they are impossible to see at night, hopefully they come off easily... I originally thought it had the standard IS lip in the front as I never looked at it too closely but I highly doubt its OEM, does anyone know what kind of lip this is?? There are no markings and it appears to be made of fiberglass. I kinda like it actually, its subtle and a little different. In terms of mechanicals, the engine is in excellent shape with a recent head gasket and timing chain replacement as well as all the related hoses and gaskets, taking care of all of the m42's serious problems for the time being. Everything else is in good shape but the suspension is definitely tired and it rattles over bumps, especially from the rear. On top of the normal new car maintenance where I plan on changing every fluid, The brakes suck and are past it so I have a full brake rebuild on the way with rotors, pads, sensors, and fluid for all four corners as well as a fan clutch (the temp climbs at stoplights), and a lower oil pan gasket as it leaks...a lot. The drivers side tie rod is shot so I have two new ones coming to fix that. Hopefully I can get all this stuff done in the next week and a half because I will be returning to school then and the car will be going into storage when I return in October.
  2. For sale is my 1989 BMW 325i Delphin/Cardinal 5 speed 213420+ miles Odometer has been broken during my entire ownership period. Odo shows 213420 mi but I have put on less than 5000 mi during my ownership. I'm selling because I want to buy an E46 M3 (a dream car for the longest time). I also just dont drive it very much; my WRX spoils me. I feel my stewardship period is over. I improved it a bit, but now it's time for someone else to carry the ball forward. Let's start with the good: (When i say new i mean within last 5yr/5000mi) Sports seats have been re covered in cardinal red with zoomzoomzoom-ing vinyl upholstery kit. Door cards and rear seats are OEM. Newer (80k mi) 4.10 LSD (no whine!) New ESM 002R 16x8 4x100 et 20 cb 57.1 with Kuhmo Ecsta XS 215/45-16 New Bilstein sport front shocks New front control arms w/ ball joints New M3 offset CAB Reinforced front subframe New Solid motor mounts New Brembo blank rotors all around New PBR Axxis ultimate brake pads all around New fuel tank Wrinkle finish valve cover with contrast lettering. I also checked the valve clearance while I had it off; they were all measuring .009”-.010” clearance New battery The bad Power steering leaks (somewhere on the rack) Roof and trunk paint is not great. Something was stored on it by a previous owner and it messed up the clear coat. (see pics) Some rust, but she's sound where it counts. The main spots are in the trunk well behind the rear wheel on drivers side (there's a hole), bottom of the rocker panel behind the driver side front wheel. A spot on the rear valence by the tow hook Dont know when the timing belt was done Suroof doesnt open (i think there is a broken cable, and its missing the crank) Other nice features from previous owner: Euro smiley's with crosshairs IE race springs Shadowlined trim I'm sure there's stuff i'm forgetting. I'll update as it comes to me. $4300 OBO
  3. This build suddenly got intense so I decided to start a thread to share with y'all and keep myself organized! The scoop: The original goal was to turbo the S52 and run a .140 MLS at low boost, if I could contain myself, for a year then build the bottom end. After removing the head the number 1 piston was shot. Build time is now! I just ordered: - 9.2 CR pistons by Imagineering - 135mm K1 Connecting Rods There is a 4-6 week wait on the pistons. The head is getting freshened up as we speak. Intercooler is "semi" mounted. This is my first build thread so I will be editing/adding pics at my learning level so bare with me!
  4. AsparagusMike

    Shop clean up...parts for sale

    Got a few things to get rid of so I can clear out the shop a bit. M20 starter. Came out of a running car... $35 M20 single mass flywheel. It has been machined with an 1/8 inch shaved off to fit on any e36 24 valve motor swap into an e30 so that it clears the e34 oil pan... $100 E30 trans mounts. Mount with bushings... $10 Mount without bushings... $5 E30 steering rack. Felt and worked great while I had it in my car. Tie rods will need replacement. Sense I have the feeling no one is gonna want this anyways. If the buyer comes and picks it up you can take it for free. e36 m3 steering rack with replacement seal kit. Pulled it apart to rebuild but had trouble removing the center bushing in the rack so I ended up going z3 instead. Great deal for someone that knows how to rebuild one of these... $20 (replacement seal kit alone is over $30 new) SOLD!!! E30 brake booster. Works great and in awesome shape except for some paint scrapped off the front... $25 Front and rear sway bars off a 318is... $20 M42 radiator. Works good, no leaks... $25 Pretty decent e30 dash. a few minor cracks and a minor tear out on the front between where the cluster goes and center vent. If I remember correctly this area gets covered up by the hvac/radio panel and bottom plastic trim beneath gauge cluster anyways... $50 Poly bushings from akg. This is all the bushings to do the rear subframe. Subframe and diff bushings are 85a and trialing arms 75D. Supposedly this is the ideal combo for a nice handling car while keeping a fairly comfortable ride. These bushings are brand new never installed. Originally $260 from akg. Looking to get $200. M42 motor and g240 trans. Also throwing in the drive shaft, DME, and entire exhaust system with it. 125,000 miles on everything when pulled. Engine ran great with no issues. It does have new belts and spark plugs. Of course it also has some oil leaks but not bad. Trans shifted smooth. Shifting linkage definitely could use some new bushings though. $600 OBO The muffler is aftermarket. Unsure of brand but sounded nice with the m42. obd2 e36 m3 wiring harness. Also includes 2 oxygen sensors and the knock sensors. Willing to sell the sensors separately but just gonna throw a price on the whole thing... $50 e36 m3 exhaust manifolds. Includes EGR block off plates with gaskets... $30 S52 oil pan, dipstick, and pickup. Oil pan has been put through a parts tank washer and thoroughly cleaned... $50 M50 intake manifold. The black has faded due to sitting in the sun but other then that the manifold is in great shape. May be able to repaint it but not really sure...$10 s52 intake manifold with air pump and lines... $10 s52 throttle body elbow with clamps... $5 e36 m3 obd2 throttle body...$10 vanos solenoid and coolant sensor are free s52/m52 plastic valve cover (does not include oil cap)... $10 s52 fuel rail... $10 I am willing to negotiate on any of these prices within reason. Let me know if you have any other questions I am more then happy to answer them. Thanks for looking!
  5. Spent too much time on BRZO, craigslist search app, and ended up buying a car sitting in California. Details: Year - 1988 Mileage - just rolled over 152k Exterior - Alpinewhite Interior - black w/sport seats Origin - California = no rust!! Modifications.maintainance when purchased: Ground Control Coilover w/camber plates Garagistic X-Brace Garagistic Strut Brace Cross drilled rotors with hawk pads K&N intake w/custom heat shield New catback exhaust 3rd brake light delete Ireland engineering sway bar bushing with reinforcement weld on tabs 16x7 BBS replicas w/BFG Comp-2s Raceland windblocker LED headlights Bluetooth head unit w/speakers and amp - not period correct Engine has been fully gone through maintenance wise I drove the car in California for two weeks while out there and its finally being shipped back to WI. Planned Maintenance /Modifications: Fix minor dent on hood Roll fenders Raise car up a little Replace rear bumper rubber strip Mark D chip and 19lb injectors Fabric spray paint the shifter and e-brake boot Clutch stop Rear shock mount reinforcement DRIVE!! Pictures:
  6. Here is a parts list and DIY for the floor mounted shifter I built for my e30. It is similar to the Bimmerworld race shifter or the AKG stage 2 shifter (not as pretty, but also not nearly as expensive). Parts list: Spherical bearing: FK bearing WSSX12T, x1 Bearing weld cup: FK bearing CPW12, x1 Bronze Bushings: McMaster 5448T5, x2 1/2x13 Coupling Nut: McMaster 90264A485, x1 High Misalignment Spacers: 3/4" to 1/2", x1 pair 1/2x13 stainless nut, x1 1' 1/2x13 Steel Threaded Rod, x1 1' 1/2 Steel Rod, x1 3/4" OD, 0.51" ID, 0.12" Wall steel tubing, short piece. x1 16 gauge steel plate, x1 5/8" square tubing, x1 1/4-20 x 1.5" bolts, x4 1/4-20 stainless nylock nuts, x4 1/4" stainless washers, x4 Total parts cost: $90, though I used stainless hardware and bought the metal at Lowes so it can definitely be done cheaper. This doesn't include the BMW parts to rebuild the rest of the linkage. First, I drilled out 1/3 of the threads on the coupling nut with a 1/2" drill bit, ground off the zinc plating, and welded it to the 1/2" steel rod. I cut a 17mm piece (Critical that this part does not exceed 17mm, a little under is ok), and welded it to a 5" piece of threaded rod after grinding off the plating near the welded area. On the round tube, you will need to open up the ID slightly to 13mm so that the bushings are able to slide into place. You do NOT want to press the bushings into the tube as they will compress and no longer fit over the shaft on the selector rod. You'll notice that the high misalignment spacers don't match the ball in the spherical bearing, they will have to be ground down (or put in a lathe if you have access to one) to bring the flange down to below the size of the bearing. Moving on to the shifter mount. Cut a 1-3/4" hole in the steel plate to fit the bearing weld cup. I used a metal hole saw but you could also drill a smaller hole and file it to size. Weld the bearing cup facing upright into the hole with about 1/4" sticking out from the bottom of the plate. Pay attention to the heat from the welder to avoid warping the cup. Once the cup is welded in place, measure the size of the hole in the trans tunnel on your car, and cut the plate so that it is about 1/2" larger in diameter. Here is the shifter assembled to this point: To affix the base to the car, drill 4 1/4" holes at the corners of a 2" square centered around the bearing cup. Put the 1/4-20 bolts through the holes from the top and weld the heads to the plate to fix them in place. Cut a 5" piece of the square tube and split it evenly in half along the length. Underneath the car, mark where the flange of the shifter hole pass by the bars and cut back the tube so it fits over them. You may also need to clearance them for the bottom of the weld cup. Match up the bolts on the base to the two pieces you just made and drill the respective holes to 3/8". This is what the final pieces should look like (after paint) Assembled in the car with lock nuts: Note: when painting the parts, do not get paint on the inside of the bearing weld cup. Currently, the height of the lever is very tall, and the shift throws are extremely short. With the shifter mounted in the car, mark where you would like the final height of the knob to be, and then remove and cut the upper half to size. Re-mount the shifter into the car and connect the selector rod. Test the shift pattern, it will likely be extremely short and require a lot of force to get into gear. Lengthening the throws will reduce the force needed to change gears. Shortening the bottom half of the shift lever will lengthen the throws. Remove 1/4" to 1/2" from the top of the threaded rod and reinstall to test the shift throw. Repeat this step until you have the desired throw. Don't go too far, or you will have to re-make the bottom half of the lever. ] Once you have the shift height and throw exactly how you want it, paint all the parts and re-assembled tightly with loctite: Install the shift lever into the base and insert the bearing retainer circlip. Connect the selector rod (now is a good time to replace the selector rod joint, shift shaft seal, and the yellow washers on the selector rod). Make sure you are able to get into all gears without binding, and you are ready to go! Another thing to note: I designed mine to accept the BMW motorsport golfball shift knob which presses onto the shaft. You could also use a die to cut m12 threads into the top of the rod to use one of the many available thread-on shift knobs. Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Xhddb2buY0
  7. Hi Everyone, I am moving to a slightly smaller garage and will need to get rid some extra parts I will likely not need as well as my parts car (1991 318i) because I will no longer have a place to put it at the end of september. I will be removing as much as I can before then and will likely be scrapping the shell unless someone wants it. The car is a 5-speed, has 400k on it, but has been maintained (mechanically) very thoroughly for its entire life. Engine runs great despite the mileage and trans shifts well. It is very rusty as it has been used as a winter beater since 1999. Pics: Things I know I will be keeping/using so far: - Much of the interior (door panels, front/rear seats, consoles, possibly the carpet, etc) - Differential - Headlights - Cluster - Bumpers (At least the front, may be willing to sell the rear) - Radiator - I lip and valence trim (possibly valence if it's savable, though I doubt it) I will post things for sale/free as I take them off the car and determine that I wont need them, or PM me if you are looking for something in particular. I have fairly limited time so if you want/need something that is time consuming or difficult to remove, I'll make it extra cheap if you help pull it (Engine/trans for example). I'd like to keep it as a roller for as long as possible. Car is located in wauwatosa.
  8. I’m looking for a decent, working e30 medium case 4.10 rear end. Really just looking for an open unless someone wants to sell a lsd for cheap. It needs to work and not make noise, as I’ll reseal and repaint it before it goes into the car, and I don’t want to screw with replacing all of the bearings.
  9. Hey All, I got these skirts online but they didn't fit my Vert. The ad stated they would... but alas they do not. They will however fit other E30's. Spent $175 on them. Looking for $125. They have never been mounted. I am including pics and info from the original ad. BMW E30 MTECH SIDE SKIRT SET FOR COUPE AND CABRIO Great fit on BMW E30 Coupe, Cabrio, Convertible. Finished in white primer Comes without fitting kit Made from top quality GRP fibreglass Comes as a set of Right Skirt And Left Skirt No Fitting kit but quite easy to install, you should fix them with black windshield glue or high temp. silicon
  10. I need to make more space in my garage, so I figured I'd list a few things and see if anyone is interested; 1. E30 steering rack. Its a BMW re-manufactured rack that came out of my 1991 318is, given it's a reman it has somewhere less than 150k on it. No leaks, worked perfectly when pulled. It's just really dirty from my car leaking oil from every conceivable place when I bought it, no rust on the fittings or lines and should clean up nicely. Tie rods are worn out, sorry for the crappy picture. $40 2. E30 coupe tan leather rear seat. Seat back is in alright shape, leather is a little hard at the top and the driver's side corner is a little wavy but not totally split open. Seat bottom has a big rip and is dirty. Foam in decent shape on both. $10 3. E30 m42 rear exhaust section, muffler was a cheapo replacement and cracked so I cut it off right at the flange. Resonator in perfect shape, no real rust/holes/etc anywhere. Would be perfect to weld on a decent muffler and have a good condition rear section for cheap. $10 I have more stuff I'll be listing beyond these few things, I'm just starting with bigger stuff. I will update this post with parts I determine I won't need or can't use in the coming weeks
  11. M-Tech 1 3 spoke non-airbag steering wheel, fine spline in good condition. SOLDTwo Complete Sets of Wheels:15" Basket Weave wheels w/center caps, good condition with tires (195/65/15). 4 x 100 bolt pattern. Offset for IX models, will work with non-IX models with appropriate spacers on the front wheels. Extra damaged wheel included. $350 obo17" ACT 5-spoke aluminum wheels with tires (235/45/17), 4 x 100 bolt pattern excellent condition. $325 oboThanks for looking!! located in Waupaca
  12. AlpineE30

    E30 4 Bolt Rims for Sale

    Hey All, I am selling my 14 inch E30 wheels after picking up a different set. I have 5 with tires and one without. I can supply pictures of each rim individually if needed. Bolt pattern is of course 4X100. I am looking for $60 each OBO. Let me know if you're interested!
  13. I'm throwing my hat into the Alpine arena. It's a CALIFORNIA (!!!) 1990 Alpine 325i Sedan. Automatic, and the M20 has about 260k miles on it + a leaking head gasket. But these are perfect conditions for a M50 5-speed swap. We picked up this guy around the end of December before Christmas, however with the fact that we have two E34's to attend to and the calypso e30, my project schedule was pushed back a bit The driver's side of the valance is forked pretty badly, so I'll be swapping that with a brand new one. Other than that, this body is pristine. I don't have any solid pictures of the interior but it has gray cloth seats, which the driver's seat is a little tattered but nothing horrible. Let's get up to speed: Dec. 20th, 2016 We found the car on a farm outside of Verona sitting under snow, which we had come to learn had been sitting for quite some time since the guy had a lot of other project cars. But to our disbelief, there is zero rust on the car and it started up immediately after wiping off the snow. Somehow this car sat on Madison Craigslist for two weeks without anyone even coming to check it out?? I swear I thought it was a scam, it was quite literally a Christmas miracle. Chris survived the drive back on probably the baldest and rotted set of spare tires I've ever seen. Cleaned it up to get rid of all the salt, cause it'll never be seeing a winter again. Dec. 22nd, 2016 Since Ben was home from SC for the holidays, we pulled the M50 from a parts 95 E36 325i we had sourced a few weeks prior, which was put out of commission due to the hood flying up and smashing the windshield while driving. The motor was running a week before it was picked up, however it's believed the starter went out, which doesn't matter since I need a new one for the swap. Removing it was a breeze with four people and the core supports sawzalled off. that e36 is mega scrapped by now. Feb. 19th, 2017 The E30 twins currently sit together. I took this the day we got the Calypso M20 running. Forgot to mention around this time I scored some side skirts from Dan, which you can see leaning on the wall next to the E28. Mar. 18th, 2017 The M20 pull has begun. Andy stopped by to drop off the set of 15'' Weds Bavaria 4x100 rims he no longer wanted. I think they look fresh as hell, and are a perfect fit for the Alpine. I'll be looking into powder coating them in the future, but for now they're in perfectly acceptable condition to run. I found a thread on E9 Coupe that pointed out that 68mm BMW center caps fit these guys perfectly, so I ordered a set of them. Very excited to see how they look on the car. I also picked up a pressure washer today. Hoping to get a good engine bay wash going once the motor is pulled. Here's my WIP parts list so far if you're curious of my plans. I'd tell you that this is for you, but it's actually for me. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1g5PsFmSzEas-rl7x8jwDGZs5WF2SzdOdVU6ErX8QxGI/edit?usp=sharing
  14. FREE save it from the scrapyard! Unknown miles, makes noise, speedo sensor is meh, is begging to be welded.
  15. Hello I'm seeking the following parts all for a 1987 E30 325i E30 LSD it good working order Rear bumper parts (Sides, top and rear rubber parts that attach to aluminum bumper) Front seats (Sport seats preferred) Coolant Tank Driver side fender Front and Rear Roundels Thanks for the time!
  16. Hopefully this is the beginning of an epic transformation of an 89' Delphin/Tan 325i into a rock solid street/track car. Before i bought her: Parts installed (as of 5/9/13): Parts that I'm looking for (as of 5/9/13): Cardinal Red sport seats is lip Z3 steering rack Euroweaves or BBS RM or BBS RS reps or Ronal LS ///M shift knob (sorry Zach the one on the car broke:() an OEM jack A spare bottle cap i'm sure there's more... Coming up... lets take a look at some areas for improvement and discuss my options.
  17. Anybody ever re-wrap a steering wheel? The leather is torn on the top of my e30s MTech wheel and I'd like to find someone to fix
  18. Jdesign

    Wtb E30 dash in any condition

    As the title states, I want to buy a dash, in and condition. The cheaper the better.
  19. Andrew

    E30 Battery Cable Terminal

    I'm finally trying to secure my battery properly (trunk mounted battery in an 89 325i), but i've got a bit of an issue. The battery cable that is currently on the car does not appear to have the correct terminal on it, which means that it wont work with the proper battery (group 48?) The correct one is pictured below on the left (it has a unique 90 degree drop thingy), and the one that I have is similar to the one on the right (it's just straight). Can I buy the correct end and crimp it on (i suspect not), or do i have to buy a whole new cable? The problem with having the straight terminal is that it can't make the tight 90 degree corners in the battery well to connect to the positive terminal of the correct battery, which means i cant use the correct battery tie down. The alternative is that i use a completely different battery and fabricate my own battery hold down. This seems easier to me right now, but i value your opinions.
  20. m42b32

    Random parts for sale

    I have an assortment of random things I wont be needing or can't use for my car so I figure'd I'd list things for sale: 1. Light smoke/clear euro side marker conversion?for e30 or e28 (or others, not sure). SOLD 2. Euro clock adapter for cars equipped with a 13 button OBC. It came with my clock (not for sale) and my car has a 6 button so I cannot use it. $25 shipped 3. 13 button OBC with coding plug (can get info on plug if you need it). It came as a spare with my vert (manual m20 if it matters), but I have no use for it. Good condition, screen looks to be good but I don't have a known good one to compare it to, minimal wear on buttons. Unfortunately, I have no idea how to 100% verify if this works and as a result I am asking $25 shipped non-refundable, or $40 shipped with $30 refundable if it doesn't work 4. Pair of e30 rear subframe bushings SOLD 5. E36 modular console parts. Coin tray had all it's pieces fall out so it isn't pictured here. Ashtray is in very good condition, 2nd cup holder is missing two of the 'clips' that deflect around the cup. $20 shipped each for the ashtray, and the frame. Bad cup holder and coin thing are $5. 6. E30 AC parts. All of this was pulled from my '91 318is - Compressor is probably no good as the AC did not work but the system held pressure, probably best to use as a core: $20, this is heavy so I'd rather not ship it - AC lines, No rust. I believe they are usable for an r134a conversion: $10 per line - AC dryer? The can thing behind the headlight: $10 - M42 ac compressor mounting bracket and belt tensioner, bearings are quiet: $20 - Condenser may have taken a hit in the accident, a little surface rust, still held pressure: $5 - Radiator and undertray not for sale 8. Set of beat up poly eccentric e30 rear trailing arm bushings, not sure if anyone would want these but I figured I'd post them up. One of the bushings is missing the key that goes between the bolt and sleeve: $10 shipped All prices are OBO, I'd be happy to make package deals on multiple things. Shipping is included in asking prices in lower 48, please PM me for a shipping quote if you are outside that.
  21. straight6pwr

    e30 parts

    errthing sold. thanks dudes.
  22. So a while back I found this site looking for some random picture of some rare random part. I have since visited back many times due to the awesomeness of the e30s and the great details. I just thought I would share it in case anyone else might have missed this site and wanted something to gawk at. Enjoy:) https://drive-my.com/social/groups/item/49-bmw-e30-club.html?tag=2014
  23. TehRaydarlover

    TehRaydarlover's AWD lover

    I been wanting to make a build/progress thread for a while so here it is. I haven't done much work on the actual car, just collecting/cleaning parts for future plans. I still am not 100% sure what I to do for the engine. The m20 stays and I bought an e36 m3 crank for the 89.6mm stroke but as far as boost/NA goes I don't know what to think. I really like NA but I also like a lot of power. The bottom end is going to be forged regardless, s52 crank & rods then a set of custom pistons (maybe JE or MM). The unknown I have are the bore diameter (86mm maybe) and compression ratio for boost/NA. idk maybe build a lower cr NA with the option of running low boost. Another problem with a lot of power with the ix is the drivetrain handling the power. Here is a small list of what I have managed to obtain: s52 crank New IE HD rocker arms New stock valve springs (not sure if I want to use them they came with the rocker arms) ARP head studs Extended spline length front drive shaft s52 rods I also have a lot of spares for the drivetrain if things decide to break: front diff x3 oil pan x3 front drive shaft x3 rear drive shaft front cv shafts x2 sets transmission transfer case rear diff Things I want/need to obtain/decide on: Megasquirt Cam?? Piston size?? Front diff upgrade?? GC ix coilovers Alpina rims New paint A lot of other things I don't want to think about now lol I love these pics So those are my thoughts for the long term here is what I have been up to recently: Over christmas break I tore down my spare ix m20 and found the oil intermediate shaft bearing was mangled. I picked up a new inner bearing (Part # : 11 11 1 264 196) from pelican. I had a lot of trouble finding a new outer bearing bearing (Part # : 11 11 1 280 863). All of the dealerships I went to said the bearing was on back order from Germany and they didn't know when or if they would become available. All of the online sights I usually go to (Blunt, Pelecan, Turner, Bravauto) all said it had to be special ordered, out of stock, or NLA. After some searching I found http://eeuroparts.com they showed in being available from their warehouse. I ordered two and after a little over a month they finally showed up, yay! With the increased stroke of the s52 crank the rotating assembly just kisses the oil intermediate shaft. I don't know how much the shaft needs to be machined down so for now I just cleaned up the casting a little. Hopefully it will be enough, if not oh well another reason to be in the machine shop. Old fubar outer bearing Lathe love New bearings and machined oil intermediate shaft S52 crank I picked up for $225 shipped from cali. Shitty pic but the crank looks great. With the s52 crank and m20 you need an oil seal spacer. Thing is like $200 from MM & IE or $50 from someone on r3v. I like my money so I made one myself fo free.99 Disassembled my spare set of front ix breaks Sandblasted said front breaks: Rebuild a set of front axles. These things were a real PITA. There is a c clip that you have to spread and then pull off the head of the axle. It is literally impossible to do. So I cut one end of the clip off and pulled it through. Even then I had to beat the shit out of it to get the head to slide off the axle. I sand blasted the heads and repainted them. #showcar Also had to order new axle nuts. Went to concours and got the part number but they wanted too much so I ordered a used set off ebay. After pressing the extended spline head into the drive shaft I took it to A1 drive shaft, they want $60 to weld the head on. idk seems kind steep for just welding it. They said they had never seen anything like it and couldn't guarantee it would be strait or the weld would be good because they didn't know what kind of metal shaft is, I have a material cert and welding instructions for the head. I don't think straightness would be a problem because the head is pressed into the shaft but idk I'm no expert. That's all for now. Ray
  24. m42b32

    I did a thing!

    Well today I made a trip down to Chicago to pick up this: ^ Crab! Its a red on tan 1992 325i vert with 132k on the clock. Its a 5-speed with a factory LSD and apparently spent most of its life in California so the car is basically rust free aside from one tiny surface rust spot on each door jam. There's a big dent in the driver's fender/door, but otherwise the paint is in great shape! The interior is actually in decent shape too, just really dirty. The drivers seat is trashed but the passenger seat is in great shape, a little splitting at the top of the rear seat, and the top has seen better days, but the dash is crack free! Maintenance hit list: Timing belt, valve adjustment, cooling system overhaul, diff mount and CSB (knock from the rear on acceleration/hard shifts, hoping its not the driveshaft u joint), and general filter/fluid replacement. The main reason I bought the car: It was pretty cheap and came with a nearly complete e30 M3 5-lug swap (only thing missing is the front brake calipers) and includes the m3 4.10 LSD and axles that I'm going to swap onto the 318is.
  25. P_Roloff

    E30 brake issue

    Lately, I've been having an interesting problem with the e30. Once the brakes heat up, the left rear rotor/caliper makes an awful squealing noise, but only while off the brakes. Once you press the pedal, it goes away. I've tried anti squeal but it didn't change anything. Any ideas on what's wrong? I'm thinking it's probably a dragging caliper, but maybe someone on here has some insight.
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