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  1. I figured I'd start a progress/build thread for my e30 like I did for the e36! I posted about the car before but for the sake of completeness: It's a 1991 318is slicktop in Alpine white with an Indigo cloth interior. It was built on April 26th, 1991 which I believe is the very end of production for the e30 coupe so thats pretty cool. It spent most of it's life in Florida so it is basically rust free but like most old southern cars a lot of the plastics are very faded and brittle. I am planning on doing an OEM+ build and just bringing it back to its former glory. On to the pics! I tried to get the color of the door panels but the camera didnt pick it up too well, I have never seen this color before but I think it looks pretty cool After a nice cleaning The seats have definitely seen better days (the rear seat is trashed) and the carpet is mostly torn out, other than that and a few other little things the interior is actually in pretty good shape. The dash is 99% crack free with only a tiny one in the tray above the glove box. I am planning on removing those white face gauge stickers (hard to see here) as soon as I can as they are impossible to see at night, hopefully they come off easily... I originally thought it had the standard IS lip in the front as I never looked at it too closely but I highly doubt its OEM, does anyone know what kind of lip this is?? There are no markings and it appears to be made of fiberglass. I kinda like it actually, its subtle and a little different. In terms of mechanicals, the engine is in excellent shape with a recent head gasket and timing chain replacement as well as all the related hoses and gaskets, taking care of all of the m42's serious problems for the time being. Everything else is in good shape but the suspension is definitely tired and it rattles over bumps, especially from the rear. On top of the normal new car maintenance where I plan on changing every fluid, The brakes suck and are past it so I have a full brake rebuild on the way with rotors, pads, sensors, and fluid for all four corners as well as a fan clutch (the temp climbs at stoplights), and a lower oil pan gasket as it leaks...a lot. The drivers side tie rod is shot so I have two new ones coming to fix that. Hopefully I can get all this stuff done in the next week and a half because I will be returning to school then and the car will be going into storage when I return in October.
  2. So, this may or may not turn into a build thread of my car. I just have some time today and figured I would share some photos. I have a swap waiting to get torn down and installed next winter, but as of now, I am focusing on the suspension. The car is a 1993 BMW 325IC e30 Vert. This car is an original all options machine (besides a LSD ) that I picked up almost two years ago. I have slowly been repairing the little things that go wrong with a 20 year old BMW while trying to improve it to my liking at the same time. Bare with me as I use this thread to post slow progress as its made....on to the photos This is what it looked like when I got it. Check the horrible tint and reverse rake..
  3. Why Turtle Farts? Be as she's low, slow, and sounds like an elongated fart due to the cherry bomb exhaust. 😬 Regardless, I'm glad she's finally on the road! Backstory: I was looking for a clean E30 coupe since fall of last year, and found this '86 325es on Craigslist in Wisconsin Rapids last May... took the hour drive to Rapids and met with the owner who was best described as "eccentric". He had inherited the car from a friend following his passing and soon realized he didn't have the means to continue working on the car. First impressions were good! Completely rust free, lowered on bilstien's, all suspension bushings upgraded to poly, upgraded brakes, and best of all, it ran and drove. Unfortunately there was absolutely zero service history, but the car fax showed it came to Wisconsin from California in 2013. It had a terrible driveline shudder and a cracked, but meticulously fixed with JB weld, oil pan. The expected cracked dash, non functioning odometer, and a/c are all present and accounted for. Other than that, most everything else is good. Following a bit of haggling and $2,900 later; she was on the back of a flatbed heading to my house on May 23rd. I felt pretty good with that. I spent my free time this summer replacing the oil pan (thanks Snap!), the driveshaft, guibo, center support bearing, timing belt and other maintenance items, a good cleaning and polishing, and here we are! My goal for this year was to bring it, along with my '89 cabrio, to the Door county Euro rally this September. I plan on a mild restoration to follow in the upcoming years... the big question is: what do I want to do with the powertrain? I want a mild, reliable build, and am thinking a turbo/hybrid (i) build utilizing the current engine, or a outright swap with a newer motor.... after looking under the hoods of a few cars at the E30 picnic, I was overwhelmed with the options and talent that is out there! I am excited to see where this goes.... -Tim
  4. she's home! (and so it begins.) 2000+ miles in 2.5 days. the previous owner was a piece of work, and after seeing how poorly this car was taken care of, i'm a little surprised it made it all the way home without a hitch. (well... a hubcap, a side marker, and some window trim managed to jettison along the way.) i know you are wondering, why the hell would he drive 2000 miles to bring home an e30? hint: along the way home when I received my room key at a Holiday Inn Express and it was room 330, i had a good chuckle. more later, its been a long day. here's the first picture of the car right before leaving west seattle. http://i.imgur.com/VNAraED.jpg http://i.imgur.com/WjGvw4t.jpg
  5. This build suddenly got intense so I decided to start a thread to share with y'all and keep myself organized! The scoop: The original goal was to turbo the S52 and run a .140 MLS at low boost, if I could contain myself, for a year then build the bottom end. After removing the head the number 1 piston was shot. Build time is now! I just ordered: - 9.2 CR pistons by Imagineering - 135mm K1 Connecting Rods There is a 4-6 week wait on the pistons. The head is getting freshened up as we speak. Intercooler is "semi" mounted. This is my first build thread so I will be editing/adding pics at my learning level so bare with me!
  6. I have a niche business called Krista's Custom Kreations. I make some pretty awesome shift boots. Made to order. Esy install. Check out my business on fb or Instagram : @kcustomkreations Contact me via here, insta, or fb for inquiries.
  7. Spent too much time on BRZO, craigslist search app, and ended up buying a car sitting in California. Details: Year - 1988 Mileage - just rolled over 152k Exterior - Alpinewhite Interior - black w/sport seats Origin - California = no rust!! Modifications.maintainance when purchased: Ground Control Coilover w/camber plates Garagistic X-Brace Garagistic Strut Brace Cross drilled rotors with hawk pads K&N intake w/custom heat shield New catback exhaust 3rd brake light delete Ireland engineering sway bar bushing with reinforcement weld on tabs 16x7 BBS replicas w/BFG Comp-2s Raceland windblocker LED headlights Bluetooth head unit w/speakers and amp - not period correct Engine has been fully gone through maintenance wise I drove the car in California for two weeks while out there and its finally being shipped back to WI. Planned Maintenance /Modifications: Fix minor dent on hood Roll fenders Raise car up a little Replace rear bumper rubber strip Mark D chip and 19lb injectors Fabric spray paint the shifter and e-brake boot Clutch stop Rear shock mount reinforcement DRIVE!! Pictures:
  8. Staggered wheel/tire setup with ACT 17x7.5 rims 4x100 bolt pattern ET38 offset. 215/40 and 235/45 Kenda Z rated tires. Great condition, low miles! A little dirty from sitting in storage. These are hard to find, period correct German made wheels, not cheap knockoffs! Unfortunately the center caps are long gone, and I’ve tried for years to find replacements. Be a great addition to your BMW, or other car. I’ll entertain offers!! $375 Thanks for looking! -Timmer
  9. Hello all, I have this car on Craigslist and I'm going to have the same info here. (Here's the link https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/d/milwaukee-1987-bmw-e30-325imiles-needs/6787201504.html) Model: 1987 BMW 325i from CaliforniaNot currently running as I have taken some parts off (Read below), read all text and look at photos. If interested email this listing and we can set up to see the car. To pick it up you'll need to tow or haul the car in its current state.Reason to sell: The car needs work and good TLC to get it running and I just don't have the passion for it right now. I love this car but it's not the right time for me to really care for it.My history with the car: I bought and daily drove it from October 2017-July 2018, I bought another car in July and haven't driven the E30 much since. It developed a vacuum leak that I've been trying to track down. I replaced many vacuum lines, filter and intake boot without finding the leak. I've since taken the throttle body and brake booster vacuum lines off and intended to replace those as they look original and were likely leaking. I tested the throttle position sensor for the proper resistance and continuity and it was in spec. SpecificationsEngine: 6-Cylinders (BMW M20 Straight 6) 209,000 milesTransmission: 5-speed manual (Swapped from automatic two owners ago in California) Unknown miles on trans.Differential: 4.10:1 welded diff (Done by previous owner)Newer ratio, CD player w/AUX.Moon roof Wheels & TiresTwo sets of wheels/tires- Winter steel wheels & tires (1 season left on them) + original BMW bottle cap wheels in good shape with low tread.Trim & Interior: Four door, tan leather seats (Front seats are in poor but usable condition and rear are in excellent condition), power & central locks, power windows (Rear window switches are touchy and require multiple presses to operate), power mirrors, power moon roof. The plastic trim that goes under the steering wheel is gone. Exterior: Some surface rust on the body panels (the worst one is pictured). No fog lights were on the car when I bought it. Rear bumper wasn't on the car when I bought it, I think I have the aluminum bumper but only 1 or 3 of the trim pieces that go around it. The body appears to have been re-painted in a few locations.What needs fixing: Vacuum leak makes the car not currently drivable. When you hit the gas the engine surges and revs constantly high. New tires needed soon and a new battery is likely needed also. Work I've done: Replaced return power steering line and fluid, rear brake pads and rotors, air filter, washer fluid motor, fixed the gas/brake/clutch pedal box which cracked one day (common issue) by welding it and beefing it up with more metal, regular synthetic oil changes, flushed and replaced all the brake fluid. New exhaust from the down pipe back. Other things to be aware of: Small oil leak under the engine (haven't found the source yet). Welded differential makes it challenging to turn at low speeds. The dash is cracked and the front seats have tears. Exhaust flex pipe leak.
  10. Free to a good home... ’86 325es cluster, mostly works (sold), and complete dash including 4 cracks. If anyone wants them, their yours! I just can’t bring myself to throw out parts, but my wife is sick of tripping over them in the basement.... she always wins, it’s not fair.
  11. Set of 4 hard to find ACT 4x100 wheels wrapped in Kenda 215/40/17 tires. ACT was a supplier of high end OEM wheels and has since been bought by Ronal.Wheels are in great condition with no paint scratches or curb rash. Tires have plenty of tread left, but have some cupping typical of being on a car with negative camber... Unfortunately, the center caps are long gone, and I don't even know wher to start looking for them😔I like the look of these wheels, but need the money to go towards my build, $450 obo. -Thanks!
  12. Hey everyone! I actually joined the forum a few months ago as I met Brian. He directed me to your community here, but I never introduced myself. My name is Matt and I am new to the BMW forum as well as being new to BMW ownership. I bought my first Bimmer last August and she's a wimpy, but cute, little red '92 e30 318i vert. I'm a local to Milwaukee, born and raised, and I was looking for a place to get more involved in the auto industry. This seems like as good a place as any! I also [used to] write articles and post them to my blog (hate that word) of industry news, features, etc. My website is downshiftmke.com if any of you are interested in checking it out. My latest work has been a more visual medium since no one likes to read these days. Admittedly, a lot of my initial work was garbage, but I'm happier with the way things are developing more recently. I recently filmed an F80 M3 which was a lot of fun, and this week I'm releasing a comparison video of that M3 going head-to-head with an Alfa Giulia QV which is my best work yet. Here's the link to the M3 video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdCtiK8_r0U (I'll include a link to the comp video if you guys are interested) Let me know if you think it's garbage or if it doesn't completely offend you! I'd always prefer the latter, but I'd like to improve my craft so any feedback is welcomed! Anyway, just wanted to introduce myself and say hi! Matt
  13. Here is a parts list and DIY for the floor mounted shifter I built for my e30. It is similar to the Bimmerworld race shifter or the AKG stage 2 shifter (not as pretty, but also not nearly as expensive). Parts list: Spherical bearing: FK bearing WSSX12T, x1 Bearing weld cup: FK bearing CPW12, x1 Bronze Bushings: McMaster 5448T5, x2 1/2x13 Coupling Nut: McMaster 90264A485, x1 High Misalignment Spacers: 3/4" to 1/2", x1 pair 1/2x13 stainless nut, x1 1' 1/2x13 Steel Threaded Rod, x1 1' 1/2 Steel Rod, x1 3/4" OD, 0.51" ID, 0.12" Wall steel tubing, short piece. x1 16 gauge steel plate, x1 5/8" square tubing, x1 1/4-20 x 1.5" bolts, x4 1/4-20 stainless nylock nuts, x4 1/4" stainless washers, x4 Total parts cost: $90, though I used stainless hardware and bought the metal at Lowes so it can definitely be done cheaper. This doesn't include the BMW parts to rebuild the rest of the linkage. First, I drilled out 1/3 of the threads on the coupling nut with a 1/2" drill bit, ground off the zinc plating, and welded it to the 1/2" steel rod. I cut a 17mm piece of the 3/4" tube (Critical that this part does not exceed 17mm, a little under is ok), and welded it to a 5" piece of threaded rod after grinding off the plating on the rod near the welded area. On the round tube, you will need to open up the ID slightly to 13mm so that the bushings are able to slide into place. You do NOT want to press the bushings into the tube as they will compress and no longer fit over the shaft on the selector rod. You'll notice that the high misalignment spacers don't match the ball in the spherical bearing, they will have to be ground down (or put in a lathe if you have access to one) to bring the flange down to below the size of the bearing. Moving on to the shifter mount. Cut a 1-3/4" hole in the steel plate to fit the bearing weld cup. I used a metal hole saw but you could also drill a smaller hole and file it to size. Weld the bearing cup facing upright into the hole with about 1/4" sticking out from the bottom of the plate. Pay attention to the heat from the welder to avoid warping the cup. Once the cup is welded in place, measure the size of the hole in the trans tunnel on your car, and cut the plate so that it is about 1/2" larger in diameter. Here is the shifter assembled to this point: To affix the base to the car, drill 4 1/4" holes at the corners of a 2" square centered around the bearing cup. Put the 1/4-20 bolts through the holes from the top and weld the heads to the plate to fix them in place. Cut a 5" piece of the square tube and split it evenly in half along the length. Underneath the car, mark where the flange of the shifter hole pass by the bars and cut back the tube so it fits over them. You may also need to clearance them for the bottom of the weld cup. Match up the bolts on the base to the two pieces you just made and drill the respective holes to 3/8". This is what the final pieces should look like (after paint) Assembled in the car with lock nuts: Note: when painting the parts, do not get paint on the inside of the bearing weld cup. Currently, the height of the lever is very tall, and the shift throws are extremely short. With the shifter mounted in the car, mark where you would like the final height of the knob to be, and then remove and cut the upper half to size. Re-mount the shifter into the car and connect the selector rod. Test the shift pattern, it will likely be extremely short and require a lot of force to get into gear. Lengthening the throws will reduce the force needed to change gears. Shortening the bottom half of the shift lever will lengthen the throws. Remove 1/4" to 1/2" from the top of the threaded rod and reinstall to test the shift throw. Repeat this step until you have the desired throw. Don't go too far, or you will have to re-make the bottom half of the lever. ] Once you have the shift height and throw exactly how you want it, paint all the parts and re-assembled tightly with loctite: Install the shift lever into the base and insert the bearing retainer circlip. Connect the selector rod (now is a good time to replace the selector rod joint, shift shaft seal, and the yellow washers on the selector rod). Make sure you are able to get into all gears without binding, and you are ready to go! Another thing to note: I designed mine to accept the BMW motorsport golfball shift knob which presses onto the shaft. You could also use a die to cut m12 threads into the top of the rod to use one of the many available thread-on shift knobs. Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Xhddb2buY0
  14. I'm throwing my hat into the Alpine arena. It's a CALIFORNIA (!!!) 1990 Alpine 325i Sedan. Automatic, and the M20 has about 260k miles on it + a leaking head gasket. But these are perfect conditions for a M50 5-speed swap. We picked up this guy around the end of December before Christmas, however with the fact that we have two E34's to attend to and the calypso e30, my project schedule was pushed back a bit The driver's side of the valance is forked pretty badly, so I'll be swapping that with a brand new one. Other than that, this body is pristine. I don't have any solid pictures of the interior but it has gray cloth seats, which the driver's seat is a little tattered but nothing horrible. Let's get up to speed: Dec. 20th, 2016 We found the car on a farm outside of Verona sitting under snow, which we had come to learn had been sitting for quite some time since the guy had a lot of other project cars. But to our disbelief, there is zero rust on the car and it started up immediately after wiping off the snow. Somehow this car sat on Madison Craigslist for two weeks without anyone even coming to check it out?? I swear I thought it was a scam, it was quite literally a Christmas miracle. Chris survived the drive back on probably the baldest and rotted set of spare tires I've ever seen. Cleaned it up to get rid of all the salt, cause it'll never be seeing a winter again. Dec. 22nd, 2016 Since Ben was home from SC for the holidays, we pulled the M50 from a parts 95 E36 325i we had sourced a few weeks prior, which was put out of commission due to the hood flying up and smashing the windshield while driving. The motor was running a week before it was picked up, however it's believed the starter went out, which doesn't matter since I need a new one for the swap. Removing it was a breeze with four people and the core supports sawzalled off. that e36 is mega scrapped by now. Feb. 19th, 2017 The E30 twins currently sit together. I took this the day we got the Calypso M20 running. Forgot to mention around this time I scored some side skirts from Dan, which you can see leaning on the wall next to the E28. Mar. 18th, 2017 The M20 pull has begun. Andy stopped by to drop off the set of 15'' Weds Bavaria 4x100 rims he no longer wanted. I think they look fresh as hell, and are a perfect fit for the Alpine. I'll be looking into powder coating them in the future, but for now they're in perfectly acceptable condition to run. I found a thread on E9 Coupe that pointed out that 68mm BMW center caps fit these guys perfectly, so I ordered a set of them. Very excited to see how they look on the car. I also picked up a pressure washer today. Hoping to get a good engine bay wash going once the motor is pulled. Here's my WIP parts list so far if you're curious of my plans. I'd tell you that this is for you, but it's actually for me. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1g5PsFmSzEas-rl7x8jwDGZs5WF2SzdOdVU6ErX8QxGI/edit?usp=sharing
  15. Hopefully this is the beginning of an epic transformation of an 89' Delphin/Tan 325i into a rock solid street/track car. Before i bought her: Parts installed (as of 5/9/13): Parts that I'm looking for (as of 5/9/13): Cardinal Red sport seats is lip Z3 steering rack Euroweaves or BBS RM or BBS RS reps or Ronal LS ///M shift knob (sorry Zach the one on the car broke:() an OEM jack A spare bottle cap i'm sure there's more... Coming up... lets take a look at some areas for improvement and discuss my options.
  16. Anybody ever re-wrap a steering wheel? The leather is torn on the top of my e30s MTech wheel and I'd like to find someone to fix
  17. I'm finally trying to secure my battery properly (trunk mounted battery in an 89 325i), but i've got a bit of an issue. The battery cable that is currently on the car does not appear to have the correct terminal on it, which means that it wont work with the proper battery (group 48?) The correct one is pictured below on the left (it has a unique 90 degree drop thingy), and the one that I have is similar to the one on the right (it's just straight). Can I buy the correct end and crimp it on (i suspect not), or do i have to buy a whole new cable? The problem with having the straight terminal is that it can't make the tight 90 degree corners in the battery well to connect to the positive terminal of the correct battery, which means i cant use the correct battery tie down. The alternative is that i use a completely different battery and fabricate my own battery hold down. This seems easier to me right now, but i value your opinions.
  18. So a while back I found this site looking for some random picture of some rare random part. I have since visited back many times due to the awesomeness of the e30s and the great details. I just thought I would share it in case anyone else might have missed this site and wanted something to gawk at. Enjoy:) https://drive-my.com/social/groups/item/49-bmw-e30-club.html?tag=2014
  19. I been wanting to make a build/progress thread for a while so here it is. I haven't done much work on the actual car, just collecting/cleaning parts for future plans. I still am not 100% sure what I to do for the engine. The m20 stays and I bought an e36 m3 crank for the 89.6mm stroke but as far as boost/NA goes I don't know what to think. I really like NA but I also like a lot of power. The bottom end is going to be forged regardless, s52 crank & rods then a set of custom pistons (maybe JE or MM). The unknown I have are the bore diameter (86mm maybe) and compression ratio for boost/NA. idk maybe build a lower cr NA with the option of running low boost. Another problem with a lot of power with the ix is the drivetrain handling the power. Here is a small list of what I have managed to obtain: s52 crank New IE HD rocker arms New stock valve springs (not sure if I want to use them they came with the rocker arms) ARP head studs Extended spline length front drive shaft s52 rods I also have a lot of spares for the drivetrain if things decide to break: front diff x3 oil pan x3 front drive shaft x3 rear drive shaft front cv shafts x2 sets transmission transfer case rear diff Things I want/need to obtain/decide on: Megasquirt Cam?? Piston size?? Front diff upgrade?? GC ix coilovers Alpina rims New paint A lot of other things I don't want to think about now lol I love these pics So those are my thoughts for the long term here is what I have been up to recently: Over christmas break I tore down my spare ix m20 and found the oil intermediate shaft bearing was mangled. I picked up a new inner bearing (Part # : 11 11 1 264 196) from pelican. I had a lot of trouble finding a new outer bearing bearing (Part # : 11 11 1 280 863). All of the dealerships I went to said the bearing was on back order from Germany and they didn't know when or if they would become available. All of the online sights I usually go to (Blunt, Pelecan, Turner, Bravauto) all said it had to be special ordered, out of stock, or NLA. After some searching I found http://eeuroparts.com they showed in being available from their warehouse. I ordered two and after a little over a month they finally showed up, yay! With the increased stroke of the s52 crank the rotating assembly just kisses the oil intermediate shaft. I don't know how much the shaft needs to be machined down so for now I just cleaned up the casting a little. Hopefully it will be enough, if not oh well another reason to be in the machine shop. Old fubar outer bearing Lathe love New bearings and machined oil intermediate shaft S52 crank I picked up for $225 shipped from cali. Shitty pic but the crank looks great. With the s52 crank and m20 you need an oil seal spacer. Thing is like $200 from MM & IE or $50 from someone on r3v. I like my money so I made one myself fo free.99 Disassembled my spare set of front ix breaks Sandblasted said front breaks: Rebuild a set of front axles. These things were a real PITA. There is a c clip that you have to spread and then pull off the head of the axle. It is literally impossible to do. So I cut one end of the clip off and pulled it through. Even then I had to beat the shit out of it to get the head to slide off the axle. I sand blasted the heads and repainted them. #showcar Also had to order new axle nuts. Went to concours and got the part number but they wanted too much so I ordered a used set off ebay. After pressing the extended spline head into the drive shaft I took it to A1 drive shaft, they want $60 to weld the head on. idk seems kind steep for just welding it. They said they had never seen anything like it and couldn't guarantee it would be strait or the weld would be good because they didn't know what kind of metal shaft is, I have a material cert and welding instructions for the head. I don't think straightness would be a problem because the head is pressed into the shaft but idk I'm no expert. That's all for now. Ray
  20. Well today I made a trip down to Chicago to pick up this: ^ Crab! Its a red on tan 1992 325i vert with 132k on the clock. Its a 5-speed with a factory LSD and apparently spent most of its life in California so the car is basically rust free aside from one tiny surface rust spot on each door jam. There's a big dent in the driver's fender/door, but otherwise the paint is in great shape! The interior is actually in decent shape too, just really dirty. The drivers seat is trashed but the passenger seat is in great shape, a little splitting at the top of the rear seat, and the top has seen better days, but the dash is crack free! Maintenance hit list: Timing belt, valve adjustment, cooling system overhaul, diff mount and CSB (knock from the rear on acceleration/hard shifts, hoping its not the driveshaft u joint), and general filter/fluid replacement. The main reason I bought the car: It was pretty cheap and came with a nearly complete e30 M3 5-lug swap (only thing missing is the front brake calipers) and includes the m3 4.10 LSD and axles that I'm going to swap onto the 318is.
  21. Lately, I've been having an interesting problem with the e30. Once the brakes heat up, the left rear rotor/caliper makes an awful squealing noise, but only while off the brakes. Once you press the pedal, it goes away. I've tried anti squeal but it didn't change anything. Any ideas on what's wrong? I'm thinking it's probably a dragging caliper, but maybe someone on here has some insight.
  22. Looking under my car, the fuel feed line is thickly rusted over to the point of flaking off. I am considering replacing the entire line from fuel tank to engine. Has anyone else run into this? Does it make sense to replace? Where can I find a new fuel feed line? Thanks!
  23. Hey everyone, I'm Johnny, back in april I picked up an 89 318i, had the car for a month and took it to SoWo in Helen, GA with @Earl and @johnprusinski car performed flawlessly and I'm very happy I also have a stupid slammed 94 miata, it has broken 2 laptops my girlfriend has a bagged 04 mini cooper s, and i race autocross at miller park in my dads 08 honda s2000 cr I've got a husky named Banksy and I live in Oconomowoc
  24. So, this has happened a few times, but not in awhile. Previously, I figured out that the problem was a loose fuel line clamp on the top of my fuel tank under the back seat. If I park on just the right angle or slope, my car would have a difficult time firing. It would turn over fine, but just keep cranking with a little sputter here and there. If I would wait a minute or two and try again, sooner or later it would fire, and once it was running, it would be fine. I fixed the fuel line and haven't had a problem since.....SINCE today. I was pretty low on fuel and when I started my car this morning, it took a few extra cranks to fire. I thought maybe is was because my car was on E. So I drove to the gas station, shut it off and filled it up. Got back in, crank it and a few sputters and nothing. Awesome. So I sat there for a few minutes. My car was at that perfect slope at the pump. Crap. So I tried again and it fired a little more but then died and showed no further signs of firing. So I sat there and thought to myself thinking; did my fuel pump just die? Well what else is there? FUEL -Relay -OEM -Pump -OEM (I think) -Filter -New SPARK -plugs -New -wires -Old as shit :/ -cap/rotor -New So I got out, pulled the relay for the FP out and cleaned it off with what I had. ( a towel ) I put it back in, and tried again. The car cranked and slightly fired. I stopped, pumped the gas while cranking again, fired right up. So.... I assume the relay is bad, but can anyone confirm this is my actual problem? Or could it actually be the pump, and for some reason the time it sat there while I cleaned the relay allowed it to work again? I have a new pump and I will be buying a new relay regardless.
  25. Hey guys, Does anyone know where to properly mount an alternator ground cable on an e30 m20? I've searched online and in my repair guide with no luck. It looks like it can reach from the back of the alternator to the engine mount ground cable location. Is that where it should go? Hoping it will limit the amount of radio whine I am getting. Thanks!
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