cpandrewschmidt

April 2, 2015

hooked the battery up again and turned on. Still sputters like before. Still bad enough that its definitely not right. I have no idea. Ugh.

I'm thinking this still might go back to those Bavauto performance wires and plugs. I did find one buried topic online of a person having issues with those wires.

Is there anyone I could meet up with that has an m20 engine that would be willing to let me try their plugs / wires to rule that out?

Thanks again for every ones help here. Oh, I did also hook the vacuum test back up and I got 16-17 psi, so that was much improved from before and where it should be.

April 2, 2015

Thanks, I got 'er working pretty well now. It's semi auto. I'm missing the bracket that move the whole top. I have it from the junk yard, just haven't installed it yet. We'll have to meet up for sure. Where's your shop?

jc43089 · April 2, 2015

Drove it more last night. Still has some sputtering issues, but not NEARLY as bad. I at least feel like I can drive it to places. It smooths out more after its warmed up. Still might have to take up a couple of your offers to look things over to see if I'm missing anything if you're still willing.

Looking online it doesn't look like my ECU resets like the e36. I unplugged the battery last night and am letting it sit all day today. Will try again tonight.

As for the smoke test I just modeled it after these two posts. I put a hole in a soda can and the can fits nicely into the intake hose. Just tape it and seal it off good before putting smoke into the system. Dont forget to open the throttle.

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=292791&page=2&highlight=smoke

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=274418&highlight=smoke

April 1, 2015

Update - Ran a homemade smoke test with a compressor and paint can trick. Worked like charm. One very small vaccuum leak on the bottom of the hose that attaches to the valve cover. Took it off and it basically snapped apart it was so brittle. Ordered a new one.

While waiting for that to come in I popped the valve cover and adjusted the valves. There wasn't 1 that I could get the feeler under, so they were pretty tight. I adjusted those to the best of my ability. Definitely a finky job. I don't feel like I did as good as I could have, anyway...

Hose came in today and put it back on over lunch. Fired it up. Seemed to still do the same thing initially but settled down after a little bit. DME adjusting itself?? I let it idle for 5 mins before working up the courage to take it out. Drove it for 10 mins around the subdivision and a road up to 45 mph. Knock on wood it performed well. Going to put it through some more rigorous driving tonight.

I did notice my idle dropped to the 800 ish rpm range, where before it was about 1100 rpm. So, I think that's a good thing too. Valves still seem to tick a bit, there's probably one or two that aren't quite right.

March 29, 2015

Thanks Boris,

I'll double check everything again, i think you're right i'll just have to take things apart again. I got the Bavauto performance wires. I was told not to remove caps from the plugs for those wires. The wires click onto the plugs so I think they're on there correct. I have also tried it with the caps off and it didn't make a difference.

Snap - that would be great, i'd love a second set of eyes. I'm sure once I figure it out it'll be something stupid. The car isn't my daily driver so it's just sitting in the garage right now until i can figure it out. I can come home over lunch or am generally free after about 5:30pm.

March 29, 2015

Hi again all. Looks like i'm stuck. Added fresh gas, checked the gas pump filter and that was clean, changed o2 sensor. Still having the same problem. No idea and its not driveable. Bad DME?

March 28, 2015

yes same tank, car has been in and out of storage for the winter. it does fire right up and drives fine for a bit, so it doesn't seem like the gas is bad? Does smell like she's running a bit rich though. But yes, some fresh gas is on the list. Was going to try to get some today but didn't make it out of the subdivision.

Here's what she looks like today. Figured I'd give you all some eye candy so you can see the cause you're working on

March 27, 2015

thanks Boris3. I might just do the o2 sensor. Car has 100k on it and i dont know when it was ever done. I'd be surprised if the filter gets clogged as it take the car running for about 5 mins of running before it starts to bogg down. If it got clogged do you think that would happen quicker? I'll check it eitherway though. Cant hurt!

March 27, 2015

i have above a 1/4 tank left. i had to fill it up on my way back from IL when i bought it end of Nov. I did start it throughout the winter and i did just yesterday throw some fuel injector cleaner in. Unfortunately it won't make it to a gas station to top her off:( Did the stomp test and didn't get any codes.

So, you think o2 is the next cheapest thing to try? no other way of testing that I assume?

March 27, 2015

Ran to the junk yard and got a fuel pump regulator used. It didn't work. Tried o2 sensor idea and no difference. I have no idea. Could a bad catalytic converter do something like this? Would that just suddenly go? I'm out of ideas for cheap parts.

March 27, 2015

well, the ecu coolant temp didn't do anything. next guess is fuel pressure regulator i think unless someone else has another idea. Anyone know if I could take one off of a e28 5 series?

March 26, 2015

Yes

March 26, 2015

I picked up an ECU coolant temp sensor cause it was $16, figured i'd just try that and I'm not out much if it isn't it. Probably on its way out anyways if I have the original. I'll get that in tomorrow and let you know. Badger game to watch tonight!

March 26, 2015

i think that's OK. nothing milky in oil. i've popped the cap and looked good when i did the valve cover gasket before changing the oil

March 26, 2015

idle is fine until it's warm. it starting surging real bad while driving. i limped it back to the garage, put in neutral and it would still surge badly. i shut it down then and came on here.

been doing lots of searching online. Does the fuel pressure regulator make any sense that it'd fail when engine is warm? I gotta find some westsiders that I can swap parts with.

March 26, 2015

well, i didn't do the vacuum test yet. Changed the fuel filter and went for a drive around the neighbor hood. While compression could be better I don't think it's really a major vacuum leak. Here's why. While driving it starts out running pretty good, strong acceleration, reasonably smooth. A little rough, but drive able. The problem gets REALLY bad after the car warms up. I'll try to attach a video. (video didn't work, ugh) You can't hear sound all that well, but the engine is about to cut out. Probably would if I let it keep going it sounds BAD. You can see the temp gauge flicker, mpg, etc. Again, only gets terrible after it warms up.

So, I think I can rule out bad plugs and wires cause it goes fine for a bit.

I noticed while jacking the car up to change the filter I have a bad gasket after my catalytic converter. There was A LOT of water/exhaust liquid dripping out. Not gas though, didn't smell. just vapor. Could mean nothing, could mean something, i don't know. Not sure how the problem only happening when up to operating temp might play into all that.

Thanks again for all your help. Sure would be nice to get her running for spring.

March 25, 2015

I could use the ICV but then won't I be missing if there's a leak from that a point forward through the airbox? Is there a better part in the system to blow into to capture everything? At the fuel pressure regulator hose? If so, should I blow from point 1 or 2 attached? Thanks, never done this before, should be fun.

Yeah, just using some old cigars. Gonna have to be sure not to inhale too much or I'll get a mad buzz. Wait, or maybe I should?

Andrew

March 25, 2015

Did the plug check over lunch. That checked out fine. Unpluged each one, the engine would change sound a bit, then as I got the wire close to the plug you could hear each one spark. After connecting the engine sounded normal. So, I don't think there's a misfire issue.

When I do the smoke test tonight I think this is the correct brake booster line to disconnect? There are two in this area, one right on top of the other.

March 25, 2015

Thanks guys, I'll try both tonight and report back. I'm 99% sure that timing is right. I did the timing belt in December and drove it back and forth from rimrock road to verona a couple times without issue before performing the plug and were changed. I did those in February.

March 25, 2015

did the vacuum test, at idle it was at about 11ish PSI. Pushing the gas in neutral it would jump up to 17-18. All lines and hoses seem seem intact. Anyone ever try the cigar smoke test on these cars? Where would i introduce the smoke into the system?

Changing fuel filter tomorrow. Cleaned ICV

Every time i start the car it seems to get worse. I'm stumped as problems only arose after doing routine maintenance and I haven't driven the car more than 20 miles from swapping parts. I don't think I will make it to anyone's shop who's offered to help me (thanks again by the way you guys!) without breaking down as bad as its running. Don't suppose anyone is around the westside that could help for a beer?

Andrew

March 23, 2015

Thanks Jd, I'll probably take you up on that. I haven't had a chance to get it out again and the weather didn't help last night! I'm also waiting on my plates to arrive, so I don't want to drive it on the street too often. After I can get it out I'll shoot you a PM.

JC - I got your vacuum gauge. Can you help me figure out how to use it by any chance? Never done a vacuum test before.

Thanks again,

Andrew

March 19, 2015

These engines can be finicky on plugs, everyone seems to prefer the NGK but it also depends on the type of plug.

I'm basically doing the same thing as you, throwing parts at the 325i because its that time anyways. I would be willing to swap around parts if you wanted to meet at my shop sometime. I'll keep what I take off the car this weekend in case I run into similar issues but I don't think mine could run any worse :/

thanks cyoung. yeah id love to swap plugs / wires to start there and see if thats the issue before getting to more expensive things. visversa if i have some parts you need to try. where's your shop?

JC43098 - i could have what you're describing. i'll try to drive and post a video of whats happening

i think i have the timing ok after the change? i hand cranked everything a few times through and it all lined up as it was supposed to.

Andrew

March 19, 2015

Thanks, the tach does dip occasionally. it's pretty frequent when it does it. Most noticeable during acceleration and deceleration. When at cruising speed it isn't as bad, but still prevalent.

i didn't seem to notice issues until i changed the plugs and wires. I went with BavAuto's high performance wire, and bosch plugs. But i can't say for sure there weren't issues before as the car was sitting most of the winter. I only drove it from IL to madison and then started working on it. On that trip it was never this bad. All items replaced:

timing belt, timing belt tensioner, all belts, distributor cap, water pump, thermostat, valve cover gasket, plugs, wires, air filter. All the tune-up things since i didn't know when they were last done. Car definitely ran better before performing these things which is strange.

I'm wondering if the high performance wires might have something to do with it. Plugs and wires were the last things i did. I drove it before doing those and i didn't notice this issue this bad. Unfortunately i pitched the old plugs and wires so I can't test if that might have something to do with it.

I'll read up on vaccum testing. Other suggestions welcome! Andrew

March 19, 2015

Hi all,

Any m20 engine experts or just people good at diagnosing engine sputtering issues on older bmw around the madison area? I recently bought a 1991 325i convertible. Did all the major tune up items, plugs wires distributor, timing belt, etc. The car is still sputtering a bit and I'm not sure what to try next. Wondering if anyone would be up for some beers on me if they could help me figure it out? Thanks much

Andrew

February 17, 2015

Is anyone here familiar with how to re-sync the top for an e30 convertible?

I have a new to me 1991 325i convertible. It has the automatic top. Seller (tiny dealer) said it was converted to a manual top. Last weekend I started investigating in the truck after trying to find threads online to get it to work. I was most concerned with getting the tonneau cover motor to latch and close the lid tight. Previous owner put in crappy boat straps to hold it down, which I don’t trust to not flop up in the wind.

For those that might know a little about these things work here’s what I’ve discovered: I was pleasantly surprised that we were able to confirm both motors work. We were able to get the tonneau motor to close and latch once. However, something isn’t right with the sync process as we can’t get the car to do it again. The micro switches may be max out, or we’re out of sync, I don’t know. I’ve read the e30ic website with the procedure, but frankly I don’t understand it.

So, if anyone has had experience with this I’d certainly appreciate some tips, or help for some beers! I’m in Madison.

Thanks much,

Andrew

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