cpandrewschmidt
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Posts posted by cpandrewschmidt
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Spotted nice m5 in Aldi's parking lot Saturday afternoon on westside of Madison. While walking through the store I was trying to figure out who it was. I had to leave before they came out.
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Finally got the clutch back up and running. So, figured I should show a few pictures after a wash and wax. No idea why they show up crooked. I rotated them and re-saved after uploading but they're still messed up. Oh well.
Next project is to get a new trunk on. I'm not a fan of the huge spoiler on there. I found a nice white one without a spoiler at the junk yard. Got to strip it and paint it then I'll go with that and a smaller m5 style lip like shown.
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well Snap was right as usual! However, 1 step forward, 2 back. I was reverse bleeding from the slave. removed it and pushed the piston in a few times and then started adding fluid to the slave. Seemed like I was putting a lot of fluid into it but never did get the fluid level to rise in the engine container so i figured I'm still pushing air out. Felt the clutch and it was getting a little resistance, so went back under and added some more fluid. Went to check the clutch again pushed harder. BOOM - blew the slave cylinder out. Rookie mistake. Guess I needed to reinstall it first.
So, now will have to wait for a new part to arrive (unless someone here has a spare on hand?!
Ugh.......
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here's a video to try to show what i mean.
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well, got the master cylinder in. That's not a job I want to do again. I'm having trouble with the return spring though on the pedal. It looks like it's in where it should be but when you push the pedal down the spring is actually pushing the pedal towards the floor. Once the pedal is past halfway the spring slams it down and the pedal won't return. I haven't bled the master yet but there's no way I could see it having the force to push it back. The spring is hurting, not helping in this case. It was also VERY hard to install. The only way it'd fit was to zip tie it still the spring completely bottomed out.
Here are some pics if anyone has an e36 they could snap a picture.
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On 6/28/2017 at 6:10 PM, Snap said:
Hows it going?
It was a pretty small crack, only a millimeter or so wide and about half inch long. So, I just JB welded it and been driving it now for a couple weeks. So far so good. Time to buy a skid plate. Good thing I fixed this because 2 days later the M3 master cylinder broke so now that car is out of commission! Ugh, never ends
Hopefully will be fixing that today and tomorrow.
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well, no real update on the m3. Still the CEL but drives fine. Been driving the e30 convertible lately.
Came out of the office to this today. Anyone have a spare m20 oil pan?!? My damn luck...........
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2 hours ago, jc43089 said:
It still has the air pump?
Yes, is that not normal?
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Thanks guys, i plan to confirm timing in a few days if needed. Here are some strange happenings from over the weekend. Before the smoke test I was throwing codes of the following:
Mixture Deviation Bank 1, Lambda regulation Bank 1, Cat Efficiency Bank 1 and 2, misfire cylinder 5
I got a new intake boot to fix that smoke leak and rtv'd the SC where needed, confirmed no more leaks in those spots. I moved spark plug from 5 to 2 and coil pack from 5 to 3 to see if that misfire followed. Cleared codes and reset adaptions.
Now I get totally different codes attached, so maybe I'm making progress? I google for Aux Air Injection system and can't find anything. Only thing I find refers to the Secondary Air Pump system, in reading those threads that appears to throw it's own code, so I'm not sure if they're one in the same. Most of those threads are for e46 and new cars. I can't find anything e36 specific on this. Anyone ever seen that code?
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9 hours ago, P_Roloff said:
Where did you go for the smoke test? I've been looking to do the same thing, but haven't really been sure where to go or how much it'd cost.
McDermotts Service and Repair - 6525 Seybold Rd, Madison - 608-274-8288 Cost $114 with tax for the test. I have to find a way to make my own tester next time
test takes about 15 mins to do. Trick is keeping the oil burning. I'll come up with some sort of DIY eventually.
PatsBimmer - yes, new boot is on order, should be here Sunday. Unfortunately I still don't think this is the problem. Last night I RTV sealed the Sh&t out of the old one and plugged the small gap on the SC. Granted it could still be leaking, but i'd be surprised if it was. I put like 1/4" of sealant around the thing because I didn't care what it looked like. Cleared codes, rest adaptions and they came back. Guess I'll know one way or the other when the new one gets here.
This brings me back to my vanos job. As I mentioned one of my CAM locking tools slipped while doing the job. If one of the CAMs is off just a little bit could that cause this problem? If so, how do I verify and how do I reset timing? Would I need to pull the Vanos and re-lock the CAMs flush after that's out?
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Update after smoke test. Smoke test showed smoke. One point on intake boot elbow. Previous owner did some weird gluing thing to allow for the asc delete and tried to glue the extra nipple thing needed together with the stock elbow. I had previously discovered this one on my own and tried to jb weld the crap out of it. Honestly surprised it still leaked. Gonna order one of these bad boys and be done with it.
Second area is on the supercharger body. Not a part where there's a gasket to fix. I'll get a picture later. Tech and I agreed the only fix will be to try some RTV sealant and hope it holds. This was a much smaller leak.
Leaks seemed small to me but he claimed these would definitely be big enough on any car to trip the CEL. So, I'll hope it's that.
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19 minutes ago, Earl said:
Gotcha. I would attribute this to some sort of vacuum leak. My coupe also drops idle and comes back when thrown into neutral at stop signs on occasion.
Yeah, at this point I'm hoping it's that. Should hopefully find out tomorrow with the smoke test. If they don't find anything I think I'm going to have to pull the valve cover and make sure my CAMs are still perpendicular from my vanos job. That's really the only other thing I can think of which could have been just a degree or two wrong that I haven't checked.
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yes, both 02 sensors are new (pre cat) I was throwing the CEL before I changed those.
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3 minutes ago, Earl said:
How does the car feel now? Is it that you are just chasing the check engine light or is it actually not running well?
Car feels like it's running fine. But something is clearly tripping the CEL. There's just one weird slight dip in rpm coming out of gear into neutral at stop sign. doesn't stall or anything and recovers quick. perhaps vacuum leak still? I just didn't have enough butt time in the car to know if that was normal. I'm taking in for a real smoke test tomorrow just to verify finally one way or another its not a vac leak.
Other signs seem to point to it running rich. High STFT numbers, Gas mileage is about 18-19 mpg when driving pretty easily (ie not laying into supercharger) I would think that could be better, black carbon buildup in exhaust. Car does have highflow cats though.
Lets say the DME and fuel trims worked their way down to those low negative numbers over time -8.6% LTFT and peaks above -20% STFT. I'm wondering if all the "buttoning" up that I've done changed how the car would be reading those and tripping the CEL. I guess I can clear them and see if it return closer to 0's.
I'll probably wait to do that until after the smoke test.
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SNAP - this program allows for clearing DME adaptations. I get what you're saying about the short and long term fuel trims. If I reset the DME adaptations it resets those to stock then, correct? I just don't want to overwrite any tuning, but it appears thats on the ECU which is separate from the DME stuff. Anything else I should be worried about if I clear them?
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I ran home at lunch to mess with that program. It pulled codes that I haven't seen before with the Carly App. Thoughts?
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Hi everyone,
I'm going back at this issue tonight. I did replace the FPR, no change there. I'm going to try to use http://bimmersoftware.com/bmwlogger tonight to record some live data and post it on here. Never used this program before, are there any specific things I should be trying to log for you all to look over? Just from what I see online it doesn't seem like it records much more than the scan tool I was posting in previous posts. But it's free so we'll give it a shot. It also says the free version clears DME adaptations. What would that do to my car? Whip the code for the supercharger? Don't want that I don't think.
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Hey again. Sorry to keep pestering, really wish i didnt have to. You all just respond so quick
Update: Unplugged injectors, turned on fuel pump watched injectors, no leaking.....but pressure still drops. So, car runs steady at 51 psi with FRP unplugged, 41 psi with it plugged in. When I start the pump FPR plugged in (not starting the car) the gauge instantly goes to 51 but immediately drops to 41 psi then pressure bleeds off somewhat quickly.
I started the car and turned it all the way off and pressure holds, doesn't drop off. Tells me it doesn't appear to be siphoning back when car is off, I've never had a hard start problem so it's not a check valve. When I pinched the fuel lines at the back of the rail the pressure on the gauge would go up and down, doubt that means anything.
So, still maybe a partially functioning FPR if there's such a thing? Hate to throw $90 at one not truly knowing. Or maybe it really is tune related. Out of ideas.
I promise to get some nice pictures up to have something fun to talk about. New rims are on, look great!
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probably a stupid question. Can I pull the rail with injectors attached and pressurize the system (not start car) to see if any leak? Not sure if there's a side effect that could harm anything I'm not thinking of.
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Thanks Snap for that offer, hopefully don't need to take you up on that, but maybe. Here's an update.
Picked up a fuel pressure guage, if you remember I couldn't get the one from Orileys to work. Grabbed one at Harbor Freight, hooked it up to the schrader valve at the fuel rail. Here's my results, im not 100% sure I did this properly.
First, i put ignition on but didn't start the car. Pressure went up to 42ish psi, and started dropping reasoably quick, down to about 30 psi after 2 or 3 mins with ignition still on. This is probably a clue for something. Did this each time with the vacuum line going into the fuel pressure regulator on or off.
Another test, started car this time. Pressure with vacuum line attached at FPR 41/42 ish. Took vacuum line off it jumps to 51/52 psi. I believe that is spec for the S52 engine. I also gave it solid rpm of 2500 and held steady at 41/42 with FPR attached. When giving quick bursts of gas it did just a quick spike.
I also noticed while FPR was plugged and unplugged with car running it would bog down a bit, so I believe that is working properly.
What has me concerned is i read I should be holding steady pressure with just the ignition on, correct? It's definitely dropping. Injectors or something with fuel pump? Again I'm running a bit rich it appears from my fuel trim numbers.
Thanks again experts!
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yeah, all that coding stuff is completely foreign to me.
One companies response was " There are two steps to this, well three possibly. First I would like to take a look at the car (@1 hour) then if all checks out I would put it on the dyno and see how the tune is. At that point we make decisions and if you have or can get the software I can tune it if needed. "
I don't know what software he's talking about. I thought they did that and that was the whole point of the tune? Still waiting on the other two companies to respond.
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On 3/4/2017 at 10:13 AM, m42b32 said:
At idle with my foot off the gas my '99 M3 sits at 17%/18% throttle. Not sure on the rest of the numbers though. When I get back from my trip I can see what my car reads for the rest of the parameters you posted to compare
small update. Took car into Crestwood Auto clinic in Madison for diagnostics. They hooked it up to their machine. Codes ran a little deeper than I could get with my scanner.
227, 228 Mixture Deviation Cylinders, 1-3,3-6
202 O2 Bank 1 control limit
242, 243 Misfire Cylinder 5,6
They said car is actually running fine under OEM bmw specs and wouldn't trip the CEL if it weren't for the SC, injectors, etc. I kind of suspected that. They said the tune likely needs to be redone. I perhaps lost it unplugging the battery? I've reached out to three tuners around here to see what they think and pricing for a new tune. Accumoto in Waunakee, Capitol Tuning, Performence Engine in Middleton if anyone has experience with any of them.
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On 3/4/2017 at 10:13 AM, m42b32 said:
At idle with my foot off the gas my '99 M3 sits at 17%/18% throttle. Not sure on the rest of the numbers though. When I get back from my trip I can see what my car reads for the rest of the parameters you posted to compare
Company that made the Eurosport SC isn't around anymore. TRM tuning in GA installed it, not sure if they do actual programming to customize the tune or if Eurosport gave them the tune.
I'd think it's still something with the car as it was fine for a little while. Plus it's only showing the out of wack short term fuel trim number on bank 1. I think I'll swap 1-3 injectors next to see if fuel trims move to bank 2. At least that's free to try. If that doesn't show anything I'm stuck. I suppose professional smoke test next just to be sure, but I'm almost positive I don't have any leaks.
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hmm, yeah i don't have that symptom.
Painters around Madison?
in Services Offered/Wanted
Posted
Looking for a reasonably priced painter in Madison area for a trunk lid. I have all the prep work done, just need it primed and painted to cosmos black. It's not on the car so easy to transport and can be done at the painters leisure. If anyone has a lead let me know, thanks!
Andrew