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Rowleym

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Posts posted by Rowleym

  1. Fleabay long tubes and about $30 of heat wrap for me

    have you heard these babies in person? Man I can't take it haha. no rasp for me! 

    I'm not sure if the heat wrap gets rid of the sound though. 

    I have obd2 tubular headers and they sound awesome. 

  2. Love my job, but work waay too much.  My car is at about 47th on my list of things to do and that REALLY sucks.

    ever since I started my job here(two years ago this month) we have had mandatory overtime, often 50+ a week, and begging us for more. Which I took advantage of. But now we are at 40 hours, and its like vacation every day :) or maybe it feels like it. 

  3. Do you have an air compressor? 

    I have a portable welding service if need be, but It would be interesting to do without my tools available. 

    If possible, I could bend up the required section before I came, and then cut/weld to fit at your place. 

    also, My tig is the only portable welder i have, unless you have 220v. 

    I live in Princeton WI now. About 30 minutes west of fond du lac. 

  4. Most of you insist on putting very small turbos on these things. Look up the average turbo on a 1jz, and add a couple mm's haha. Our heads flow better.

    Who needs boost before 4k anyways? Haha.

    The billet compressor wheel not only flows more per psi but it helps spool! More importantly transient response. If I was him I would probably buy a stock compressor if I wanted cheap, but he mentioned upgrade, so I figured I would say that the billet wheels for these have been raved about with great success.

    I personally would never put anything smaller than an hx40 on a 24v motor.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. new borgs are around 600$ shipped to your door. 

    But anyways, a rebuild is dirt cheap and you can do it yourself( about 60$) and a new comp wheel should be like 400$ but they are EPIC. 

    about 500$ later you have a 700+whp turbo without modifying anything id say thats a decent deal. or buy a borg and modify your exhaust. 

  6. It is supposed to sink and stay after you start the car.  If  your pedal is physically sticking then it is something mechanical between the master and the pedal.  If you had sticking calipers but the pedal didn't stick then it would be something after the master most likely.

    such as my ABS system?

  7. my pedal sinks about 1/4 the way when I start the car. My booster was great before, and I replaced the check valve, and the calipers bleed great, and the pedal is hard when the car isn't on. My abs still works, though, as I tested it..

    If I bring the pedal up when the car is running, it rolls just fine. When I push it down, they stick down a little. 

     

    Your pedal is supposed to sink after you start the car, especially if you built pressure in the pedal before starting it.

    Is it supposed to sink a bit and stay? The brakes stick a bit unless I pull the pedal back up.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. my pedal sinks about 1/4 the way when I start the car. My booster was great before, and I replaced the check valve, and the calipers bleed great, and the pedal is hard when the car isn't on. My abs still works, though, as I tested it..


    If I bring the pedal up when the car is running, it rolls just fine. When I push it down, they stick down a little. 

  9. I did the clutch in the same manner that he did and man it worked fantastic. 

    My car sat for a while and i'm having A HELL OF A TIME bleeding the brakes currently. I believe it has to do with the ABS. The calipers all bleed great, but there is still air in the system. 

  10. So what the point where I can launch the car reliably without breaking shit? Of course with these upgrades. I would never want to build a car that just breaks stuff and you can't fix it.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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