AvusHatesCones
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Posts posted by AvusHatesCones
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Spotted Sundevil? Parked next to my girlfriends car
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Yeah it look very floppy, which made its time that much more interesting.
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It's crazy to see what I think is probably M divisions best car ever, being equaled by a half baked M car. Although, a short, slow speed corner based track like that is where the torque monster M235i will shine. I've seen that those cars are putting down something like 350 lbft at the rear wheels. Also, the driver was taking it very easy on the CSL's brakes, and on top of that, it was not wearing the factory tires. So I don't think the M235i will be able to get even remotely close to the CSL's 7:50 ring time. But we'll see. Either way it was good to watch.
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My steering coupler is on it's way if not gone already as well. I'm interested to hear how the new one is.
Well, I'll see what I can do about getting it done this weekend to clue you guys in on the result.
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Let us know how the steering coupler is. I have been thinking about getting one.
Will do, I'm pretty excited to see how it feels! Especially because the factory one is on its way out in both cars.
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On the E46 I have a bunch of parts that I'm waiting for a weekend day to break 35 degrees in order to instal. So far I have, AKG 95A poly FCABS,
AKG 95A poly RTABS, AKG 75D poly steering coupler, UUC blue isolated transmission mounts, replacement control arms, my custom Coby Wheel alcantarra steering wheel, and a 1x1 weave CSL rear diffuser.
The E36 is getting a whole bunch of AKG 75D poly bushings, the 75D steering coupler, an all aluminum radiator, and Dunlop ZII tires, and possibly reworking the exhaust once again because it is unholy loud still.
This winter just need to friggen end so I can get to work
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Nice price!
I'd say its well worth it!
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Awesome! How much was it?
All said and done $250.
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Hey, Those stiches look like M's=D
Ha a little bit!
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My custom wheel was just delivered from Coby Wheel. I went with the black alcantara with tri color stitching and navy instead of the purple for the center stitch color, and the blue center stripe because I can
and I think it looks great! The wheel looks even better in person. I would highly recommend going to Coby Wheel for steering wheels, shift/e brake boots etc. Great quality and even better customer service.
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Lancia 037 stradale, otherwise I would go with a 930 as well.
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E9 3.0CSL and E46 M3CSL for me. Also one to just sit and stare at for the rest of time... a black 507. I can dream right?!
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If you want straight line speed, absolutely buy the 335. You have to truly want everything the E46 has to offer, in order to put up with the neediness of the car. But the reward of the E46 M is far greater than the 335, from a driving enthusiast point of view. Both great cars in their own right. But the E46 M3 is so far from over rated.
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What do you want out of the coilovers? Are you looking for rage drifting madness -12 degrees of camber and .5'' of ground clearance? Something comfortable and just looking for height adjustment? Or something to improve the handling? The options for the E46 are awesome and there is something to fit every need. I went with something in the middle ground, because this is my daily and wont be seeing track days, I already have a kidney jarring, tooth loosening car for that. I went with the Status Gruppe coils, you can get them with swift springs for around $1,500, or with B&G springs for about $1,200. They are a really good compromise between performance and daily livability. They will stand up to autocross and track days, but if that's what you are buying them for, there are better options out there.
If you want to make your M3 handle and ride like nothing else (without going to Motons or JRZ), Ohlins now makes an E46 M3 kit for $3,000. Otherwise ST, or KW V1 for something comfortable and fairly inexpensive.
And like Earl said, Broadway Static if you're looking to drag frame.
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No racks at 65,000 miles, bushings replaced anyway. Subframe inspected again 40,000 miles later, crack city, bushings replaced again, subframe fixed and reinforced.
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I saw jockhater2 today, well, his car at least. That is a beautiful E21
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The subframe failure is the result of bad subframe bushings. The rear subframe is secured to the floor pan with 4 studs which are screwed in. What happens is the 4 subframe bushings go bad (typically the fronts) and then allows the rear subframe to twist everytime you accelerate and decelerate. This twisting loads and unloads the force of the subframe onto those studs which in turns leads to the metal fatiguing and cracking. Then continued use will result in your rear floor basically tearing itself out of the car.
First, address your driveline bushings. Typically motor and diff mounts fail quickly and are the first to go. Keeping the engine, tranny, and diff mounts, guibo, and center bearing in good shape will reduce the stress on your rear subframe bushings.
2004 BMW started using structural foam in the rear floor which helped.
The problem is there's no way to really see if the rear subframe bushings (that I know of) have failed. Most won't do preventive replacement due to the cost.
IMO, the fix is preventively reinforcing the 6 mounting points and installing solid rear subframe bushings. The solids won't add much NHV and will last a lot longer.
That's not true, my subframe bushings were replaced at 65,000 as preventative maintenance and again now. They never went bad nor did they have enough time to do so. Also BMW never added the structural foam from the factory. The structural foam was only used as a fix for cars with 2cm or smaller cracks, the rest had the entire rear floor pan removed. There are only theories on what causes these floor pans to crack, no true facts on what it is.
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And I now apologize for adding to the delinquency of this thread
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I couldn't give two shits, because I'm not some street racing punk ricer, and I also never called your car slow. I stated that it is running improperly, which based on the graph you posted it clearly is.
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I was saying your power band is absolute crap, and cant possibly be tuned properly or maybe your jet is junk. But anyone who knows anything knows that the shape of the power band is more important than the peak number
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Peak power at 4500 to 4750rpm and down hill from there. Your car is NOT properly tuned for the funny gas.
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That is one of the worst dyno graphs I've ever seen.
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Wow, looks like you got a great deal! Excited to see what you do with it
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I never had one overly long, but loved them all.
94 325is. 3 years bought with 168,000 sold with 200,000
99 M3. 1 year. Bought with 125,000 lost a fight with a median at 148,000 (heavy heavy rain storm)
89 535i/5. 1 year. Bought with 188,000 sold with 215,000, zero problems zero complaints, just crazy boring.
89 325ix. Bought as project car, finally got it going, put 150 miles on it and parted it.
95 M3. 2009 to present. Bought with 180,000 miles, currently sits at 235,000 strong.
04 M3. 2012 to present, put on 18,000 miles already.
I plan on keeping the 95 M3 till it dies an honorable as a track day / autox car, and the E46 should be around for a long time as well.
SCCA @ Milwaukee Mile - 9/18/14
in Local Scene
Posted
I'm going to do my best to get to this one. Do you need to pre reg by a certain date?