Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'e36'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • General Discussion
    • New Member Introduction
    • BMW Discussion
    • Members BMWs
    • General Technical
    • Local Scene
  • Classifieds
    • Parts For Sale
    • Parts Wanted
    • Cars For Sale & Wanted
    • Services Offered/Wanted
  • Off-Topic Discussion
    • General Off-Topic
    • Site Discussion


  • Meets
  • Track & Autocross
  • Community Calendar




Website URL








Found 41 results

  1. I want to buy some wheels for my e36. Im open to everything/any suggestions. I want 17s or 18s Im interested in Style 5s Style 32s AC Schnitzer Type 3s Mille Miglia MM11s Borbet Type Es Style 37s Im open ears if you have any suggestions to what I should be looking for. If you have some wheels you are trying to sell dont be afraid of posting them. If I like them I might just swipe them up!
  2. So Ive tried to write a build thread before and im not the greatest at depicting a good story so try and hang in there with me. For those of you who aren’t familiar I have an E30 vert that I more recently swapped a 1JZ into. Now that that car is nearing completion, I realized that I am too worried about actually doing much with the car other than driving it to a fro rather than tracking it (I mean it is a convertible anyways). So this is where I made the terribly unwise decision to buy my new “deathtrap.” Now I got this car ONLY because it seemed like a good idea at the time and the price was more than fair. But it has such a massive list of good and bad I was 90% ready to walk away until I drove it around the block. It’s a 199X BMW E36 318is with a ford mustang 5.OHHHH with a T5 trans. Pretty common swap and there are write ups all over the net for this conversion. I figured with fullbody coilovers, M3 rear end, aluminum drive shaft, sticky tires, on paper this was recipe for a fun machine. Upon arrival the car obviously looks just as bad as I thought. Rusty quarters, flat black front end, various dents and scratches, it was worn, which I was somewhat hoping for. I didn’t want another clean car that I have to worry about leaving in a parking lot because some soccer mom was too busy dealing with her offspring to realize her cart just rolled 50’ into the side of my car. We opened the hood and boy what a mess. Looped coolant lines, wires exposed, the coolant overflow was a plastic water bottle, missing blower motor and fuse box covers, a terribly painted intake manifold, the intake was just dangling inches from the exhaust manifold, and man oh man, there was a lot of zip ties. (at this point, any normal person including myself would and should walk away) But I didn’t. So getting in, I found 60% of the interior missing, and what was left, was utterly destroyed. The shifter location was under the dash, where the OBC use to be, the headliner was gone but all of the maps lights and buttons were plugged in and dangling, , the door panels were gone, the window switches didn’t work, the drivers side door was held shut with a bungee cord, none of the gauge cluster worked except for the fuel gauge but luckily there was an aftermarket tach, H2O temp, and oil pressure gauges where the HVAC controls use to be. (Here is where I made the mistake, by not walking away) I turned the key, and nothing happened. Theres two random switches floating around in the center console where the OBC use to be. That’s how you start it. Ones the starter, the other is…….. a mystery according to the previous owner, but it needs to be on as well. Okay started it up and it sounds just like you would expect, a crowd munching mustang V8. Driving it around the block, made me complete forget about the 983468397 things I just listed wrong with the car. It was quick, loud, and pretty fun to drive. The suspension was responsive, and the tires gave it great grip and the shifter felt great besides its bad placement. Looking through the shattered glass windshield and gripping the wheel till my knuckles were white to prevent the poor alignment from pulling me into the ditch, I started to picture a futuristic madmax style E36 competing at track events, creating massive burnouts, and carelessly tapping walls, all with a giant grin on my face. So I did what any Day dreaming idiotic man would do. I bought it. Here are some pictures of the car followed by some inspiration from KHYZYL SALEEM (If you havent head of this guy I suggest you google his name) of what I plan to make the car look like.
  3. wtb

    My dads car finally shit the bed. He is now looking for another BMW He currently has a 330ci with 60k (Garage Queen) He is interested in E36s E46s and E39s Manual is a must One thing to note is he HATES black. Black E36s are fine as I would trade him my car for it If you guys see anything let me know. Nothing in Chicago as we are closer to Minneapolis.
  4. I have two (2) Diffs I no longer need. Basically welded a diff that I can not use and a VLSD differential that I dont need. E30 Rare Medium case 4.10 Viscous LSD E46 Medium(?) case 3.46 Welded Make me an offer. (I will add prices later)
  5. I would like to buy an e36 328is. Would preferably want to spend under 3,000$ Must Be Manual Sports Seats would be nice! Preferably 2 hours from Eau Claire WI but will travel if it REALLY appeals to me
  6. Here is a parts list and DIY for the floor mounted shifter I built for my e30. It is similar to the Bimmerworld race shifter or the AKG stage 2 shifter (not as pretty, but also not nearly as expensive). Parts list: Spherical bearing: FK bearing WSSX12T, x1 Bearing weld cup: FK bearing CPW12, x1 Bronze Bushings: McMaster 5448T5, x2 1/2x13 Coupling Nut: McMaster 90264A485, x1 High Misalignment Spacers: 3/4" to 1/2", x1 pair 1/2x13 stainless nut, x1 1' 1/2x13 Steel Threaded Rod, x1 1' 1/2 Steel Rod, x1 3/4" OD, 0.51" ID, 0.12" Wall steel tubing, short piece. x1 16 gauge steel plate, x1 5/8" square tubing, x1 1/4-20 x 1.5" bolts, x4 1/4-20 stainless nylock nuts, x4 1/4" stainless washers, x4 Total parts cost: $90, though I used stainless hardware and bought the metal at Lowes so it can definitely be done cheaper. This doesn't include the BMW parts to rebuild the rest of the linkage. First, I drilled out 1/3 of the threads on the coupling nut with a 1/2" drill bit, ground off the zinc plating, and welded it to the 1/2" steel rod. I cut a 17mm piece (Critical that this part does not exceed 17mm, a little under is ok), and welded it to a 5" piece of threaded rod after grinding off the plating near the welded area. On the round tube, you will need to open up the ID slightly to 13mm so that the bushings are able to slide into place. You do NOT want to press the bushings into the tube as they will compress and no longer fit over the shaft on the selector rod. You'll notice that the high misalignment spacers don't match the ball in the spherical bearing, they will have to be ground down (or put in a lathe if you have access to one) to bring the flange down to below the size of the bearing. Moving on to the shifter mount. Cut a 1-3/4" hole in the steel plate to fit the bearing weld cup. I used a metal hole saw but you could also drill a smaller hole and file it to size. Weld the bearing cup facing upright into the hole with about 1/4" sticking out from the bottom of the plate. Pay attention to the heat from the welder to avoid warping the cup. Once the cup is welded in place, measure the size of the hole in the trans tunnel on your car, and cut the plate so that it is about 1/2" larger in diameter. Here is the shifter assembled to this point: To affix the base to the car, drill 4 1/4" holes at the corners of a 2" square centered around the bearing cup. Put the 1/4-20 bolts through the holes from the top and weld the heads to the plate to fix them in place. Cut a 5" piece of the square tube and split it evenly in half along the length. Underneath the car, mark where the flange of the shifter hole pass by the bars and cut back the tube so it fits over them. You may also need to clearance them for the bottom of the weld cup. Match up the bolts on the base to the two pieces you just made and drill the respective holes to 3/8". This is what the final pieces should look like (after paint) Assembled in the car with lock nuts: Note: when painting the parts, do not get paint on the inside of the bearing weld cup. Currently, the height of the lever is very tall, and the shift throws are extremely short. With the shifter mounted in the car, mark where you would like the final height of the knob to be, and then remove and cut the upper half to size. Re-mount the shifter into the car and connect the selector rod. Test the shift pattern, it will likely be extremely short and require a lot of force to get into gear. Lengthening the throws will reduce the force needed to change gears. Shortening the bottom half of the shift lever will lengthen the throws. Remove 1/4" to 1/2" from the top of the threaded rod and reinstall to test the shift throw. Repeat this step until you have the desired throw. Don't go too far, or you will have to re-make the bottom half of the lever. ] Once you have the shift height and throw exactly how you want it, paint all the parts and re-assembled tightly with loctite: Install the shift lever into the base and insert the bearing retainer circlip. Connect the selector rod (now is a good time to replace the selector rod joint, shift shaft seal, and the yellow washers on the selector rod). Make sure you are able to get into all gears without binding, and you are ready to go! Another thing to note: I designed mine to accept the BMW motorsport golfball shift knob which presses onto the shaft. You could also use a die to cut m12 threads into the top of the rod to use one of the many available thread-on shift knobs. Video:
  7. I have an assortment of random things I wont be needing or can't use for my car so I figure'd I'd list things for sale: 1. Light smoke/clear euro side marker conversion?for e30 or e28 (or others, not sure). SOLD 2. Euro clock adapter for cars equipped with a 13 button OBC. It came with my clock (not for sale) and my car has a 6 button so I cannot use it. $25 shipped 3. 13 button OBC with coding plug (can get info on plug if you need it). It came as a spare with my vert (manual m20 if it matters), but I have no use for it. Good condition, screen looks to be good but I don't have a known good one to compare it to, minimal wear on buttons. Unfortunately, I have no idea how to 100% verify if this works and as a result I am asking $25 shipped non-refundable, or $40 shipped with $30 refundable if it doesn't work 4. Pair of e30 rear subframe bushings SOLD 5. E36 modular console parts. Coin tray had all it's pieces fall out so it isn't pictured here. Ashtray is in very good condition, 2nd cup holder is missing two of the 'clips' that deflect around the cup. $20 shipped each for the ashtray, and the frame. Bad cup holder and coin thing are $5. 6. E30 AC parts. All of this was pulled from my '91 318is - Compressor is probably no good as the AC did not work but the system held pressure, probably best to use as a core: $20, this is heavy so I'd rather not ship it - AC lines, No rust. I believe they are usable for an r134a conversion: $10 per line - AC dryer? The can thing behind the headlight: $10 - M42 ac compressor mounting bracket and belt tensioner, bearings are quiet: $20 - Condenser may have taken a hit in the accident, a little surface rust, still held pressure: $5 - Radiator and undertray not for sale 8. Set of beat up poly eccentric e30 rear trailing arm bushings, not sure if anyone would want these but I figured I'd post them up. One of the bushings is missing the key that goes between the bolt and sleeve: $10 shipped All prices are OBO, I'd be happy to make package deals on multiple things. Shipping is included in asking prices in lower 48, please PM me for a shipping quote if you are outside that.
  8. SOLD!!!!!!!!!!!!!! to @MattY ..... He will be parting it out minus the motor. I have an E36 I bought for parts and no longer need it. Good things: Runs and drives fine. ( I drove it an hour home) 120k on the clock black on black New brakes Perfect candidate for swapping the motor into an E30. Here it run, feel it drive. Bad things: No Title Windsheild is destroyed Door lacth is broken Windows dont work Its automatic Tires are junk The battery is weak I didint proof read If no one buys the whole car, I will part it out. Asking $500 OBO NO TITLE / PARTS ONLY If you needs parts, let me know and I can start a list for the part out.
  9. I have a bunch of random bits from the E36 I picked up and wont need as it will be strictly a track rat from here forward. -complete folding rear seat $10 -rear side panels $burned -bare driver door $5 -drive door glass $5 -misc door trim/rub strips $OLD! -rear bumper valance $5 -trunk trim $Burned -trunk lid carpet $Burned -interior lights $5 -tool kit plastic $Free.....Burned -religious Russian CD $5 ***UPDATE****- now comes with Panasonic CD player!!! All parts are BEST OFFER. Meaning I will give them away if I like you and you bring me beer or something. Willing to deliver for pizza and beers. Pic of said rando parts:
  10. Everything is OBO NEW Lamin-x fog light tint for e36 coupe -$15 NEW in box Denso o2 sensor - part# - 234-4670 - $40 e36 facelift chrome kidney grille - $50
  11. Client has a bad moonroof and I bought all new clips with intentions to replace them. I took everything apart and it turns out 90% of everything is smashed to bits. So im looking for a whole moonroof cassette complete with zero to 70% complete non broken parts. Burt Reynolds crab because I can.
  12. So yesterday I rebuilt my vanos with Beisan seals and their anti-rattle kit, that part of the job went great. The part that didn't go great was when I pulled the vanos unit and found the inside of my exhaust cam was full of metal shavings at the front of the engine. Under the valve cover was extremely clean, not a spec of sludge or shavings anywhere in the head. I changed the oil on Saturday and did not notice any metal flakes or anything out of the ordinary and the filter was very clean. It makes no weird noises aside from the vanos rattle (which is now gone) and it runs perfectly. Both timing chains look to be in perfect shape and the sprockets at the top of the engine looked basically new. Looking down into the lower timing cover I did not see anything abnormal either, everything was nice and clean. I cleaned out the cam with a magnet pickup (shavings are magnetic, all in all pulled less than a teaspoon of shavings) as best I could and re-assembled everything. The shavings don't look very fresh as they came out somewhat black instead of shiny silver so they may have been there for a while. What is confusing me is where they came from, I was under the impression that the cams were hollow tubes with nothing happening inside, so its not like something in there would be disintegrating. And if something else were self destructing like a bearing, I would see a lot more flakes in the filter and oil than just in the center of the cam. Does anyone have any clue where these came from? Is this a normal place for things to collect? Everything else looked to be in extremely good shape so I am baffled by this. I couldn't get a great picture of the shavings but I have one where you can see a couple pieces near the opening at the front of the cam, will post as soon as I get a chance.
  13. Hi all, Long story short, I need to get a set of front brake calipers for my 1999 M3. I have rebuild kits but the pistons and bores are too far gone to rebuild. Anyone know the best place to get rebuilt ones or have good experiences with any particular brand? Not trying to spends hundreds on new oem calipers, Turner has rebuilt ones for about $50 each but I figured I'd ask. Thanks!
  14. As the title states I have a M52 crankshaft for sale. Just took it out of the motor. My plans have changed and I am sticking with the S52. Need the money and the space. $75 plus shipping Thanks for looking!
  15. I'm Danielle, a former Subaru owner (go ahead throw garbage I deserve it) BUT happily and gleefully now the proud owner of a 95 e36 M3 Very excited to make this M my own and have already begun the process of window shopping for parts, making my list and checking it twice before deciding what direction to take this fellow. Needless to say, it's been a little over a week and I find myself enjoying the car more every time I drive it. Anyway just saying heyyyy.
  16. Looking for some used coilovers for my 95 m3 coupe - must be on the less expensive side of things since I'm still budgeting for the car, no coilovers that need to be rebuilt - would prefer something I can install right to the car that'll last me about a year at least. Let me know, thank you!
  17. SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD I have a set of Linea Corse Lemans Hyper Silver Wheels For Sale with Tires These are modeled after the famous BBS LM wheels, but far more reasonable in price. These Fantastic BBS LM Reps are Italian made and have fantastic build quality. These wheels are a perfect fit for BMW e36 and e46 chassis. These have some normal marks from regular wear and tear, and you can see there is a larger scuff in one, and there is also 1 center cap missing. Specs: 5x120 Staggered 19x8.5 +22 19x10 +40 Center bore 72.56 Toyo Proxes 225/35r19 88W RD on the 8.5's (Front) Pirelli P6 FOUR SEASONS - P255/40R19 XL 100V on the 10's (Rear) These wheels retail for $1500 new without tires. The tires new are $150 each for the fronts and $200 each for the rears. Thats $700 in tires "IF" they were new tires with new wheels. With that being said, this set up new would cost around $2200!! I am asking $850 OBO Price Drop!!! $700 OBO SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD Don't be afraid to make an offer the worst I could say is no thanks.
  18. Does anyone have one that is collecting dust?
  19. Hi guys, I am doing some research on what to do to my new to me ZF trans from a 98 M3 while it is out of the car. Figured I share what I found. Feel free to add links if you know some good ones. A great write up on these 2 service bulletins. A more basic youtube video. Selector shaft seal and gear shift rod joint write up. Detent tools and links in this thread. Another 5th & reverse detent write up. Drift tools More to come...
  20. FT/FS- 2200. NEED GONE TONIGHT! Come get it!! Am NEGOTIABLE! Anybody interested in a 1993 BMW E36?! Will consider trades BUT MAINLY LOOKING FOR CASH!! 1993 Bmw 3 Series Sedan Lowered 5spd Manual. No Grinds or Pop Outs!! Exhaust M3 Head Lights - HID's M3 tail lights. Leather interior(front seats are torn up) Good tires Replaced Drive Shaft(11-07-14) Starts right up every time, RUNS STRONG & DRIVES GREAT!! Comes with spare set of wheels!! (Winter wheels are currently on the car) Needs/Cons: FRONT INTERIOR IS ROUGH!! NEEDS RADIO!! NEEDS NEW Trunk Latch! Needs Vent cover for the dash. May sell out right for the right price.
  21. Parting out the whole car. Body is rusty but lower mileage engine and manual transmission (110k) Beige leather interior. Some front stuff is gone already otherwise most of the car is still available. Located in Milwaukee.
  22. I have a full set of E36 M3 pedals. Will post pics soon. $50 OBO?
  23. So I had an idea last week to make center caps out of the WI BImmers logo so I contacted Chris (CYoung) to ask permission to use the logo and after some ideas being thrown back and forth he volunteered to get the vinyls cut for me by Dave (bassboy3313) and send them to me. Well I got the vinyls in the mail this week and spent this weekend making them. Well I though this would be as simple as taking apart my old caps and putting the vinyls on... not so much. First of all, the vinyls don't stick very well to the plastic even after scuffing them up so I had to put my thinking cap on. I ran to Advance Auto and found emblem glue. It worked great to stick the vinyl to the center cap and did so without disfiguring the sticker when it dried. This is after it dried on the center cap. I was concerned about weather proofing them so I shot them with 2 medium coats of clear and I still wasn't satisfied. I drank some beer and thought about it. Flying dog sampler pack and KCCO Black Lager to be exact. After drinking said beers I had an idea! I needed some kind of clear epoxy that would dry hard so to Hobby Lobby it was... The next morning of course. I found Jewelry epoxy and thought I would give it a try. And this was the result... Voila! The OEM look I wanted! After 3 hours they were solid but still a little tacky so I let them sit over night and they are solid! On the wheel. I also did a city light mod.
  24. This thing has been a bit neglected over the past few months with how busy I've been with the 242, but I gave a little bit of love today. Eibach springs, Koni SAs, and the CSLs are on. Did brakes a couple months ago and it's going to be getting a bunch of preventative maintenance shortly. This car has served as a pretty good benchmark for how well things are coming along with my Volvos. At first this car was way better and served as the ideal, but now it's lagging way behind the Volvo in pretty much every way. I guess the Volvo is pretty good now... Anyway, I'll shut up and maybe toss occasional pictures in here in the future, but I really have very few plans for this car as far as modification is concerned. Maybe I'll post a MODZ list.
  25. Selling my OE 16" style 42's I would put condition between good and fair. They aren't perfect but with some cleaing up they look excellent! The tires are pretty bald and I would recommend replacing before they are driven in the rain. Trust me on this one... Will need 3 new center caps or just the sticker for them. Specs: 16x7 5x120 et42 205/60r16 H Pm me or text/ call me at 262-408-8979 Price is $275 obo