xgeetx
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Posts posted by xgeetx
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Hmmmm i will try to test that on my commute home and let you know. I'll listen to it in 3rd and shift down to second and see what happens.
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Thanks guys. Snap: that's why it puzzles me so much! But then again, I don't understand a clutch that well (except for seeing diagrams..) since I've never done work on mine. Yes, you can hear it at a low speed, but better in reverse. If i'm coasting in 1st gear at 5 mph it's pretty quiet.
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Hey guys, I'm having a really terrible sound coming out of my car and I'm hoping to get some info on what it could be. I've looked around on various sound threads, but this situation specifically hasn't been covered (at least not that I could find). The sound is a high pitched squeak/scrape oscillating noise that speeds up with higher speed. I can't really tell if it's the front or the back... or somewhere in between. With windows up it sounds like the back, but with windows down I can't honestly tell. The sound only happens when I'm in gear AND coasting. I hear it most strongly in 3rd gear and reverse. At interstate speeds I don't hear it all. When I hear the sound it will go away if I either hit the gas pedal (disappears instantly), or push the clutch in.
A couple possibilities according to the forums:
- Something on the drive shaft?
- Throw out bearing?
- Other clutch issues
- E-brake scraping?
Does anything I said above rule out certain things and hint towards others?
Thanks for any help you can provide!EDIT: It's a 1998 328i with ~180k miles on it. To my knowledge the clutch has never been replaced.
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Nice. Let me know if I say this right....
'cause racecar?
Replaced the coil, issue fixed! No idle oscillation/shaking. My car still idles just above 500 -- is that normal or does that mean I should go ahead and clean the ICV?
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jc43089 is right about which one it is,
That O-ring came out, and my tabs have since broken. I think I mounted the O-ring incorrect (on the outside of the MAF lip), which made the tension in the tab holders too high and snapped it
Zip-ties do the job fine, but the O-ring is maybe supposed to be inside the air filter box half? -
Mine was going through rough idle (88 E30) a few months back. Finally cleaned the IACV and have had no issues since. A couple of other things I had going on at nearly the same time were a bad fuel pump, and a leak in the main rubber fuel feed line under the hood. Got all of those issues taken care of, and now she purrs like a kitten.
HOw would you describe your idle? I've read that some idles are the engine revving very high. Mine is ~800 and drops towards ~500, oscillating between them. (before I fixed my air boot and ICV hose it would sometimes just stall).
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Thanks for the responses. I'm gonna grab a coil today and just see if that fixes anything... after that I'll look into the injectors? Before I replaced my spark plugs I had a misfire on Cyl #2, but didn't put the coils in the same spots (I intended to, but caught myself mixing them up after it was too late).... so I have a sneaking suspicion it is the coil, and it's a relatively inexpensive and cheap fix.
Another question: between the air filter box and the MAF sensor there's a pretty large/thick O-ring that fell out. Where exactly is that supposed to go? Maybe I didn't completely fix my intake problems...
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Could a dirty ICV cause a misfire?
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Yes CEL is on. Only code is a Cyl 4 misfire. I used to have an EVAP code for the longest time but that hasn't shown up in a while... would that have been fixed by my intake replacements?
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Hey guys,
I have a 1998 328i. I started to have a rough idle that at one point threw a misfire code. The engine also sputters (sometimes) under load at low RPMs, less than 1500, pretty much in all gears. I replaced the spark plugs (since I hadn't since I bought the car), and they all looked okay, except one had a bit of oil on it (not much). The rough idle continued and at one point my car died after I started it. I discovered large cracks on my air boot and the ICV hose. After replacing both I still have the rough idle issue, but it never dies. The RPMs drop to ~500 or less and the car shakes a little bit and sounds like it's about to stall... but it never does. Does this sound like the spark plug coils or something like a dirty ICV?
If the best option is to move the coils around and see if the misfire follows it, does anybody in the Milwaukee area have a code scanner they would lend me for a day or two so I can try to figure it out?
Any help would be great!
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I don't have much advice for the business idea, other than it would be hard to build without trust/reputation. It'd have to start as very low-cost or free consultations that eventually build your reputation.
That being said, it probably would have helped me out ~3 years ago when I was buying my '98 328i. I absolutely love my car but at the time I overpaid for a car with near-blown (or blown) suspension, the usual dumping-fluid power steering system, and a leaky radiator. I don't regret it one bit, but had the car started in nicer condition, I wouldn't have minded
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Now sure how low you are, but my car is sitting on the higher-side of some Racelands. I was referred to this Tiresplus by another Tiresplus:
Tires Plus Total Car Care1017 Spring City DrWaukesha, WI 53186(262) 278-0797Unless there is some Tiresplus hatred I'm not aware of, they seemed to work for me! Might call and ask first to make sure. -
How do I tell what rims fit which types of cars? I wonder if I should jump on those wheels!
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Hmmmm not totally sure. Mixed feelings about them so far. When I hit bumps that would have made my car bump (probably near bottom out), and then continuously bounce, I love them. I still feel the bump, of course, but it rebounds quickly and stops bouncing... I don't get the bobbing effect.
That being said, I 'feel' the bumps a lot more... Is that just the nature of a stiffer suspension? The east-side's roads are awful, so I feel like i'm bumping around like i'm in a go-kart. Also, On the interstate I feel bumps that I didn't even think should be there. It's like all the force travels up through the chassis, and absolutely nothing is absorbed by the shocks lol.
I don't mean to make it sound THAT bad, I"m just being critical because that's the component I (Edit: you, ha!) just changed
I've only done about 30 miles on them. I didn't drive at all sunday. What can I expect to feel when they 'settle'? Would changing height either way get it to feel softer or am I already at max-height?Thank you SO much for your help. Rain check on that lunch! I think my GF is in a race this saturday (running, not cars
), so it may have to wait, but we'll definitely have to meet up soon. -
Okay, I'll look into that place. My car is green. I found a door in the Waukesha area that is in pretty decent condition, but is black
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Hey guys,
My '98 328i has a rusty hole in the driver's side front door. I've heard from both Fazio automotive and Maaco (brookfield area) that it's probably be best to replace the door & have it painted. Thoughts? What are the best deals around town for paint/body work? I'm discovering that this stuff can be crazy expensive
Thanks!
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Yeah, I bled it, as best I could without jacking the front end up. I eventually said screw it, and just drove around stopping every few blocks to open the bleeder screw (who knows if that was risky or not
)You mentioned to always let it cool before taking the expansion tank off? Is there a reason for this other than coolant being hot and pressurized? I have taken the cap off a hot radiator several times now to check the level.. (oops?)
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Hey patsbimmer1,
thanks for the offer! I finished my cooling system swap last weekend. I'm still having to top off the expansion tank, but I read that you have to do that for a few days after finishing up... I don't see any leaking underneath so my fingers are crossed. I went with a Nissens radiator, but I kind of wish I did the aluminum one as it really wasn't that much more expensive
oh well! -
Well I will admit it has developed into something that should go there, but the thread you referenced does say "newbie questions" and "anything goes"
I think this thread is about wrapped up though, and I'll communicate with Earl via PM from here on out. Sorry about that!
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Earl, I have to ask... how many cars do you have? lol.
Also, is the M3 in your sig yours?
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Alrighty! I think I got my radiator leak figured out (drove to work today.. .no leaking so far), so I ordered the Raceland Ultimos. I was debating it and googling around, but nothing beats a recommendation based on experience vs. fan-dom. I will order the mounts from PelicanParts either today or tomorrow, so I should be good to throw 'em in next weekend provided you are also free
I'll be getting the e46 convertible rear mounts and just normal mounts for the front, then?
What kind of spring pads should i throw on the back of this beast?
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I replaced upper, lower, and expansion tank hoses. I didn't replace the return hose because I didn't quite understand the system when I ordered parts, and it goes way back there so it would have been a bitch anyways!
Yes, this hose was replaced.
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Hey Guys,I just did my first major car repair, and swapped out my cooling system on my 1998 328i e36 following the guide on Pelican Parts! For the most part, it was a success (car didn't blow up), but I noticed a leak at my Nissens radiator's lower hose connector spot (neck?). I loosened and retightened the hose clamp, and when I made it pretty darn tight I noticed the leak slowed down significantly, but it's still there. I noticed the connector has more of a lip than the ribbed connection that the stock radiator had... so maybe the hose clamp isn't in the most optimal position. Any of you had this issue and fix it without swapping the radiator? Googling this specific issue seems a lot of people have issues with the Nissens radiator in this exact spot...Do you guys think I need to grab a new radiator, one that has the multi-ribbed necks vs. the single-rib that Nissens has, or should I just try to reseat the hose & clamp until I can get it to stop dripping.Any feedback would be great!!
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Hmmmm.... fair point. I guess I give too much credit to that TUV certification I know nothing about! Any thoughts on the product themselves? Jom's vs. racelands vs. a struts/shocks/springs set (probably monroes to match this pricepoint...).
I'm impressed that these coilovers are so cheap, when low end struts/shocks/springs can barely match the price. I would only lower a bit from stock (maybe an 1" since I like where my blown suspension sits). I really just want to save money for decent handling on the street.
E36 Scrape/Squealing sound when coasting in gear
in General Technical
Posted
Does any part of the clutch take extra load right when acceleration stops but car remains in gear (and the car rapidly starts decellerating)?
It didn't sound like it mattered what RPM's were.... just speed. But it's hard to tell over all the engine noise when I mash the gas or downshift. Definitely increases frequency of the oscillation noise when i go faster. Can't tell if the sound is gone at interstate speeds or there are just too many other noises to notice
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