SteelBlue Posted July 28, 2023 Report Share Posted July 28, 2023 4 hours ago, YoungCR said: Haven’t come across this channel, looks like great content! Thanks! Eager to get all the boxes of parts out of my living room but it’s too damn hot to wrench for 2-3 days straight. Hopefully end of next month I can tackle the rest of the jobs. Favorite channel on YouTube. Videos are great, I’ve watched all of them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted November 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2023 Behind on updates but October's project was the 100k service punch list. I won't be doing a project this big again without a garage, setup/organization and mainly weather dragged this out over 3.5 weekends for me but I'd say its a solid 3-4 day amount of wrenching for all of this. Overall the work itself wasn't as daunting as I anticipated. Im guessing this engine had a walnut blast at some point, the worst build up was in the intake runners themselves but the valves had minimal carbon buildup so I ended up not performing a walnut blast. I had read online somewhere that somebody just soaked their intake manifold in ZEP Industrial Purple Degreaser so I gave it a shot and was pleased with the results. Menards has 5 gal jugs so I dumped all of that in and then added another 3ish gallons of water to get the intake completely submerged but wanted to keep the concentrate as strong as possible. I ended up soaking it for a week, the runners came out almost perfect. All the heavy build up was taken care of but there were still sections of minimal surface buildup that was really baked on. I did pressure wash as well to clean out debris and I was able to get a little bit more of the surface buildup off but not too much. I think with another treatment of Liquid Moly Diesel Purge the valves will be in great shape as well. One thing that wasn't one the recommended parts list was 11612246949, the mating gaskets for the intake bolts. The metal washer was either rusted or separating from the gasket on about half of mine. I wanna say it was a 16mm I used to seat them. I did a majority of the jobs in 3 groups: top, front and exhaust side of the motor. I mainly referred to the TIS on instructions and torque values but the TME YouTube videos were a great help too for some tips/shortcuts. For doing the flywheel I did buy CTA Tools 2890 BMW T.D.C. Pin for locking the crank but that particular tool was just too long to fit into the access hole. I had bought a generic version of special tool 118180 per the TIS for walnut blasting so I ended up locking the crank that way. More expensive tool but easier to work with and I can use it on my other cars as well. Per the TIS the factory M57 water pump gasket is integrated with another cover gasket and needs to be chiseled off at the 3 tabs. These are the 3 locations to take some of the guess work out as there wasn't a diagram. The clutched alternator pulley also wasn't on my list and luckily TME had just a couple left in stock at the time. I did not end up doing the belt tensioner as the tube is seized into the motor. The idler pulley was already updated so I'm saving that battle for another day. Apparently removing the alternator and mounts below will gain more access into pulling that out. Took me quite a few tries to get the A/C belt back on as well as it kept being off by 1 rib. Didn't get pics but now that I have an air compressor I bought a UView 550000 as someone else on here had recommended a while back and holy shit was it worth every penny. It took me more time to mix the coolant concentrate then to fill the system itself to capacity and having the peace of mind knowing there weren't any leaks beforehand was great too. The UView 550500 is the all plastic economy version and cheaper yet HF has a Maddox clone now too but I preferred the metal body/fittings for just a bit more. Valve cover gasket was easy and I was happy with how things looked under there. Besides the removal/install of the charge pipes, my other least favorite part of this project was the vacuum block. It's just a rats nest of plugs in a tight space to get it off but install is easier than removal. Still have a few things to button up but for the most part the motor is back in shape and we've continued to rack up the miles on this. Of course shutting the hood after finishing everything, the latch sounded different. Few days later when I went to add washer fluid I found out the passenger side latch is jammed or broke. Cables are all pretty stretched at this point but I tried the 3/16 rod trick to push on the latch through the gap between on the side of the radiator but it still won't release. So I get to perform another surgery this weekend 🙄 damnboy037 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted November 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2023 Broke in with a 12” blade on my M12 hackzall cutting through the passenger latch arm. Luckily Gibson’s had a good set of latches, catches and cables I scored for $20. Everything is in working order now 👍 P_Roloff, jc43089 and Jdesign 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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