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2 hours ago, GunMetalGrey said:

Throttle body updates? Nah
I determined I want to do some data collection before that regarding intake vacuum pre/post TB

What I did do was replace the boat 3 spoke steering wheel with a smaller unit. Please ignore the lack of kick panel near the pedals, and the speaker grille. Gotta love early models for not having actual kick panels there. 
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This car needs a golf ball shift knob.

Wheel looks nice, is it one of the Renown ones?

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1 hour ago, P_Roloff said:

This car needs a golf ball shift knob.

Wheel looks nice, is it one of the Renown ones?

Yeah I was eyeing up the golf boi... the current shifter is meh

Yeah it is a Renown unit, figured I'd give it a shot. Everything feels nice and sturdy, price is appealing, shall see how it holds up! 
The tri-color stitching wasn't my first choice, but after ordering the black stitching they said they were out and it would be some time before getting any more. I think the tri-color is acceptable given the powerplant! 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/4/2021 at 1:18 PM, m42b32 said:

How's the quality on the motorsport horn button?

Quality seems solid, crisp lines, smooth clear over the top. 

The wheels I've wanted for this are finally in stock so I snagged a set, right after saying I was done with excessive spending for the rest of the month...😒

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On 2/19/2021 at 1:30 PM, i_love_cars said:

Just popping in to say how sweet this thing is. Those dyno numbers are also absolutely nuts, really goes to show how much a proper tune makes a difference. 

Thank you sir!  a

 

I spent some time the other day with a clay bar and some paste wax. Certainly helped the paint out a fair bit! It's not perfect but it'll do. 
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I bought some radiator mounts from a late model (~$18 from BMW) which turned out to be part of the core support so I cut them apart and welded them onto my current chassis. I realized the radiator had been resting on the fan and not the lower rubber bumpers like I had thought 😕
Solved that issue though, some dripping paint for the kids. 

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 I've found this specific chassis to be fairly terrifying to drive, the rear end is clearly significantly lighter than the front so it is always looking to rotate around in any non straight situation. I was at the junkyard looking for some other parts and came across an E30 where the trunk tar was completely loose and intact, so I got that for $15 and will be throwing it in. I also got a battery cable from a late model (and all the fixings) and will be converting to a rear battery setup to help with weight balance further. Battery cable was only $15 too which was awesome. 
Note the two tone trunk to plate area, as I haven't finished yet! 
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The piece of the puzzle that I have been waiting for! Konig countergram's in hyperchrome which have been backordered since October, one place got a handful in stock and I managed to grab a set. 15x8 et25 and will be running a 225/45r15 likely with an rt660 for fun. 
Rears look like they will fit beautifully (IX rear end) and may have a smidge of room to go out further. 
Fronts have the rim .05" off the strut tower, so I will need to space that out. May end up grabbing camber plates for the front to make things more proper and fit easier. 
I'm stoked with the way they look in person! 

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This car is coming along nicely, it wasn't fun to drive when I got it due to clutch and various contact points, but it has been fun cleaning up all the small lingering items! 



 

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On 11/20/2020 at 2:47 PM, GunMetalGrey said:

We managed to pick up 75hp and 45ftlbs more torque on an NA engine which is simply astounding. 

It's amazing what some added compression would do. 

Love the car man. That airbox is much needed, you stand gains in that alone. 

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23 hours ago, GunMetalGrey said:

The piece of the puzzle that I have been waiting for! Konig countergram's in hyperchrome which have been backordered since October, one place got a handful in stock and I managed to grab a set. 15x8 et25 and will be running a 225/45r15 likely with an rt660 for fun. 
Rears look like they will fit beautifully (IX rear end) and may have a smidge of room to go out further. 
Fronts have the rim .05" off the strut tower, so I will need to space that out. May end up grabbing camber plates for the front to make things more proper and fit easier. 
I'm stoked with the way they look in person! 

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This car is coming along nicely, it wasn't fun to drive when I got it due to clutch and various contact points, but it has been fun cleaning up all the small lingering items! 



 

The car looked like Steel Blue for second when I first saw this picture.

you might need a 10mm spacer for the front. If I remember correctly, my first wheels for 16x8 20ET and needed a 5mm on the front to clear it.

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21 hours ago, Nick_08 said:

It's amazing what some added compression would do. 

Love the car man. That airbox is much needed, you stand gains in that alone. 

Increasing compression is only good for about 3% power gain over stock compression (when going to 11.5:1) but that combined with all of the top end work certainly made a difference!
Thanks! Airbox has been slow as I debate how to do other various items that would impact the airbox layout. 

 

21 hours ago, SteelBlue said:

The car looked like Steel Blue for second when I first saw this picture.

you might need a 10mm spacer for the front. If I remember correctly, my first wheels for 16x8 20ET and needed a 5mm on the front to clear it.

Yeah the fronts will be getting at least that much, possibly more depending on how close the tire is to the strut tube. 

Finally had a dry enough day yesterday to test for intake vacuum at WOT. There was none. 
Anyone want an M60 throttle body? haha

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Full tank of gas, I was standing next to it. Trunk tar in. 
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My battery relocation to the rear requires a bit more work than initially thought. It's either an '84 thing or just early production, not sure. The rear battery tray area is narrower than a late model, so I will need a different battery. I also need to cut a hole for the battery cable grommet in the engine bay vs just punching out a blank plate.
My weight bias isn't great (55% front) but it's not as bad as expected. 

For ref, this is an 84 318i with full interior, full stereo in place, and a complete 6cyl e30 driveline and suspension components, with a 24v instead of the M20. I'm fairly impressed at the weight. 
 

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4 hours ago, Boris3 said:

Nice job on the weight! My e30 race car gutted and caged with the m20 is around the same. I could go lighter but need to make 2710 minimum with driver to be legal.

The odd part is I've done nothing to reduce the weight! It's insane how light this car must've been when it rolled off the factory line sporting an m10 and an adorable drivetrain to match! 

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On 2/25/2021 at 2:39 PM, GunMetalGrey said:

Increasing compression is only good for about 3% power gain over stock compression

Not sure whether this is some kind of extreme generalization, or a valid piece of data from a non-relevant discussion...

Ideal static compression ratio is heavily dependent on camshaft timing. Cam specs greatly affect VE across the rev range. When VE is decreased, there's less air getting in, but the final volume after compression is the same, so your "dynamic" CR will be lower. You need a higher static CR to get the the same amount of "dynamic" compression of the charge before ignition. Generally speaking, bigger cams require more compression, especially to restore torque that is lost in the low end/midrange which was lost because increased valve overlap results in a lower VE in those rev ranges..

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2 minutes ago, HipMF said:

Not sure whether this is some kind of extreme generalization, or a valid piece of data from a non-relevant discussion...

Ideal static compression ratio is heavily dependent on camshaft timing. Cam specs greatly affect VE across the rev range. When VE is decreased, there's less air getting in, but the final volume after compression is the same, so your "dynamic" CR will be lower. You need a higher static CR to get the the same amount of "dynamic" compression of the charge before ignition. Generally speaking, bigger cams require more compression, especially to restore torque that is lost in the low end/midrange which was lost because increased valve overlap results in a lower VE in those rev ranges..

It is a generalization
Static compression ratio does not depend of camshaft timing, as it is simply using the volume of combustion area at the two most extreme points of stroke. The effective compression ratio certainly changes when you get into cam profiles and variable timing and things of that sort, which is not something I've delved into, as the static ratio of this engine has never been accurately measured, therefore dynamic is also speculative.

When looking at adiabatic compression of the otto cycle, ~1 point of compression increase yields around 2 to 4 percent increase in efficiency as a result of more heat being generated by the compression of air itself and intake temp being the same (ideally) instead relying on the combustible fuel source to provide that energy. As your delta T increases so does the area in the otto cycle which is the work output. 

Anywho, doing any modification without supporting it is silly, but when people with stock M50's talk about just increasing compression and expecting to see large benefit it is worth noting that they will be spending a fair bit of money for little gain. 

Positive manifold pressure is a wonderful thing in an engine is what it really all boils down to. 

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Man I'm good at buying vehicles that had things living in them. 
Noticed some yellow/orange chips near the sunroof crank, and had been getting a more present animal smell in the cabin. 
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Started pulling the headliner down around the doors and more foam was rolling out.
Lovely. 

Add taking the current headliner out and replacing it to the list of things to do. 
 

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