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Bassboy3313
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  • 2 weeks later...

Went to wire up the center gauges and install center console, but ran into a whoops moment. While testing the interior dash lights, I bumped a couple terminals with my small pick tool and shorted it out. Dash lights immediately turned off and wouldn't work again.

Checked the fuses, radio fuse was blown. Good, easy fix. Nope wasn't the issue although probably part of it. Did some googling and came up with the rheostat inside the headlight switch that dims the dash lights easily fry apparently. 

One fix is jumpering some pins in the headlight switch to bypass the rheostat. Tried that and I was able to turn the entire car on by pulling the headlight knob out. Ummm, no thanks! Reversed that.

Another fix is completely disassembling the headlight switch to solder the broken area and everything should work as normal. Let's give it a try!

Disassembled the switch

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Found the spot on the rheostat that fried. Hard to see but it's the very first coil of the spring behind the silver tab.

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Soldering this small is nearly impossible for my giant solder gun, so big blob it is. 

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I tested the continuity between the end of the tab and the other end of the coil spring wire. Looks good to me. 

Threw it back together and into the car. All works as it should! Sorry no pics of that yet. Glad I was able to save some cash as every part of this car seems to be priced like gold. We shall see how long it lasts now. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Started on some brittle plastic repair since any screw you remove from these cars seems to disintegrate the plastic. Glovebox mounting points were some of those. Used some metal brackets to cut up and epoxy on. Was skeptical at first and went a little heavy on the epoxy, but it actually turned out great. Super strong too. Call me impressed.

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Also started repairing the new door panels I picked up. The mounts tend to tear away from the press board material that the panels are made out of. So I got some epoxy, 3d printed some new ABS mounts and secured them back on. 

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Just gotta do the same with the one map pocket that got detached and I can move onto customizing the door panel inserts to walnut brown for my interior color scheme.

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I've been working on a side project for the Coupe. Knowing that you have to remove the entire interior to access the top rear strut mounts, wasn't ideal for coilovers and dampening adjustments.

Took a chance to design some 3d printed access caps that can be installed in the carpet humps that cover the strut tops. Will allow dampening adjustments for coilovers or regular access to the strut tops for replacements or repairs without the need to remove the interior. 

First go around was a little ambitious with a threaded cap into a flange set that sandwiches the carpet for mounting.

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Got the opinion of a true mechanical engineer (aka Brian) who gave me the idea of making it a press fit with oring instead of threads. Made designing and printing easier. Also added a slot on the side for a flat head screwdriver to pry cap off when removing. Seems to work pretty well. 

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Next up is test fitting to the carpet and if all is good, getting these printed in ABS for longevity and heat resistance. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Ended up finding a guy to 3d print my design in black ABS and just got them back. My 3d printer doesn't have an enclosure which is necessary for ABS due to warping if cooled too rapidly without one. Bought the o-rings from mcbastard and off I went.

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I think it turned out pretty awesome. The angle of the last pic was off since I was on a step stool with car on the lift, lol. But it's centered over the strut and hole is big enough to fit your hand in and adjust comfortably. 

The cap snaps in snug and pry's off with a small amount of force, which is perfect. I'm happy with it.

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