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4 valves adjusted.  Only 1 was out of spec, the other 3 were borderline. I like these adjustment shims more than the adjustable eccentrics that the M20 has.

The allowable range is

.007”-.009” intake

.011”-.013” exhaust


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Next on the list. 


I dont foresee much time in February for wrenching but my goal is to get the shifter in, oil changed, and other items finished up the 2nd week of March so I can be prepared in the event we have an early start to Driving Season.


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3 minutes ago, jc43089 said:

Do you have the DSSR as well?  It is at least as important if not more than the short shifter IMO.  I have that same shifter in my non operational e36 and it is very nice.

Yes, as well as a selector rod joint. The UUC stuff is pretty magical

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Inner Monologue A: “you should spend a few minutes today working on the new shifter install”

Inner Monologue B: “Hey, that’s a good idea!”

Inner Monologue B: “Before I do that I better take the headlights out and delete the headlight sprayer system and install the new trim pieces I got from my Secret Santa”


I removed the headlights and found out the new trim I have is for an early non-M E46 and they are just so subtly different so I cannot use them. Darn

While removing one headlight the solder joint on the halo wiring broke. So I mended that...


Then I removed the headlight sprayer nozzles, hose, and disconnected the pump for it on the reservoir. No more washer fluid splashed all over the hood!

I noticed some less than stellar turn signal wiring.



so I fixed it.


So I made 0 progress today on the shifter but it was nice to take care of those small items

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Date: 2/29/20
Mileage: 157,429

Fresh oil change for driving season 2020


I went to Pegasus Racing to pick up the Redline oil. The guy at the counter was a bit of a space cadet. 
Pegasus: “What can I do for you”

BC: “ I need 6 quarts of Redline 15w-50”

Pegasus: “what is that?”

BC: “That’s motor oil”

Pegasus: *clicking away on the computer for a while*.....”Is that shockproof?”



I replaced the broken PS hose mount as it had broken and was resting on the belly pan (shown dangling circled in red). RealOEM didn’t show the part separate from the PS hose but it turns out to be the same part as the secondary air pump mount. Dorman makes them and a box of them can be had on the cheap. 




I started on the shifter rebuild and tallied a list of other small parts to order. If tomorrow is as warm as it looks like it will be I expect to get some more work on the shifter done.



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Shoutout to my Harbor Freight “ 8” Universal Radiator Hose Pick” for being a bro and removing yet another bitch clip with ease


The UUC components were loaded onto the shift carrier. I still need to determine how to remove the rear rubber mount for the shift carrier from the chassis to install a new one and get the selector rod joint off to install the new one.


After getting the shifter install buttoned up , most likely this next weekend, this is what is left on the list before I drive it:

-Bleed clutch/brakes 

-unmount/rotate tires

-Mount electric fan with different mounting brackets to make it more easily removable. (Was mounted with zip strips that were not accessible without removing the radiator or condenser)

-Replace CPV o-ring (oil leak)

-Replace Dipstick tube o-ring (oil leak)

-Replace crankcase vent return line (oil leak) it should be 100% leak free after this??? 


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5 hours ago, KaiserRolls said:

I was totally in the e30 mindset with this. Dans photos have enlightened me. 

i only remembered the e36/e46 part because the dingleberry that did the swap in my car couldnt wrap his dinglebrain around the different styles and I ended up having to fix his hack, which included the e36 bushing:



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Progress this week:

-Asked @Jdesign which shop near me wont scratch my wheels during a rotate/balance, he suggested Midcoast Auto in West Allis so I dropped them off there. They seem like a nice operation. Should be picking them up tomorrow.


-Removed shift carrier bushing (thanks to @straight6pwr for the image)

-Removed the selector rod joint. This is much more challenging with the transmission in the car and the driveshaft installed. Who could have imagined!?!?

-Installed new selector rod joint with pre-installed DSSR. This seemed like a good way to go and I think it was an easier way to hold onto the joint with the limited visibility and access.

The compression set of the foam on the old joint vs the new joint:



The stock rear carrier bushing shows no cracks or obvious signs of wear but it is so flimsy and has a ton of radial movement by design. The Turner Motorsports bushing is gon b’ gud.

I need to drop the trans crossmember 1/2” again to get the rest of the shifter installed (for bitch clip clearance) so I will save that for later.


....plugging away 15 minutes at a time


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