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ChrisO

Chris’ e34 extravaganza

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All good suggestions. I’d over prepare for the first start being a high tolerance motor.  If you want to pull the tank, they are fairly simple on e34’s, just two tank straps to undo. The front strap bolts can be tricky if things are rusty though. 

 

Really cool that this car still has its dealer tags on the keys. The keyless entry system is easy to reprogram too if everything is working. 

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It sounds as though you have already cranked it, did the oil pressure light turn off?  If not I typically remove the spark plugs before cranking a dormant engine so that there is no load on the bearings.  Also adding a squirt of oil to the cylinders wouldn't hurt.  A bore scope would be handy to look in the cylinders for rust but if you already cranked it over then you already are past that.

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22 hours ago, YoungCR said:

All good suggestions. I’d over prepare for the first start being a high tolerance motor.  If you want to pull the tank, they are fairly simple on e34’s, just two tank straps to undo. The front strap bolts can be tricky if things are rusty though. 

 

Really cool that this car still has its dealer tags on the keys. The keyless entry system is easy to reprogram too if everything is working. 

The car has a new fuel pump and fuel lines, the previous owner just put the tank back in in the last two years

9 hours ago, jc43089 said:

It sounds as though you have already cranked it, did the oil pressure light turn off?  If not I typically remove the spark plugs before cranking a dormant engine so that there is no load on the bearings.  Also adding a squirt of oil to the cylinders wouldn't hurt.  A bore scope would be handy to look in the cylinders for rust but if you already cranked it over then you already are past that.

I havent personally cranked it, but in the last two years the previous owner tried to get it to run on multiple occasions

I really appreciate the advice from everyone, I'm definitely going to put some oil down into the cylinders before I try to start it and put a quart through the motor. I'm probably going to pull the valve cover gasket to take a look at the sludge and make sure I see no obvious damage

For now, there isn't a chance I could have gotten it to run today. I went over the engine bay very thoroughly and found several different issues that would prevent the car from running.

The cam pulse sensor that surrounds a spark plug wire is destroyed. Unfortunately this is a $170 sensor, and is s38b36 specific and only available as a genuine BMW part.  @straight6pwr you were right, it's already expensive

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Next pretty much every vacuum line is bad. The one off the fuel pressure regulator is completely split in half

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The intake boot post-maf is torn wideee open

The maf plug was half plugged in 

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So I need to order that cam sensor and a intake boot, and redo the vacuum lines. All pretty simple things, I'm going to pull the plenum off and redo all the vacuum lines while I wait for the sensor.

I did put power to the car today though, just to see if everything worked. All headlights, tail lights, turn signals all work. Blower motor works, windows work, all seat functions work. Radio turns on but nothing comes out of the speakers, assuming It's thanks to the hellish wiring and amp/sub set up in the trunk.

It was a good feeling to see the car come to life with power

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Just under 192k miles

A lot for having sat the last 11 years, would probably be over 250k if it never stopped running

I spent most of the day just degreasing and cleaning inside the engine bay, it was really bad and now I have a pretty clean motor to work with

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The itb throttle linkage was pretty gummed up, I really focused on that and it's much better now

Gave the car a wash on the outside the best I could without running water, I just wanted to make it look less like a abandoned car in the parking lot of my apartment haha

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But yeah, no wonder the car wouldn't start... More to come

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Well I got around to compression testing the motor this morning.

Test was dry and cold but 

Cylinder #1 gave false hope, decent number for a cold motor?

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Cylinder #2-4 crushed my dreams, I triple checked all of them and they were in the 60-70psi range

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And back to a more normal number in cylinder #6...

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I made sure to check each cylinder multiple times in different orders to make sure it wasn't user or equipment error

So yea thats bad.

So the car needs:

  • Major engine work
  • All new coolant hoses
  • A gas tank
  • A new battery
  • A cam pulse sensor 
  • A intake boot
  • New tires
  • New brakes
  • rear shocks
  • every busing that is rubber in the car

I also found a hole by the battery under the rear seat where it looks like something punctured the body?? It's all rusty now

The amount of money and work it's going to need is gonna be too much. If the thing didn't have rusty jack points and holes in the pan I'd consider "bringing it back from the dead"

I know it's a rare car but it's a easy $7000 in parts, and even if this was driving I don't see anyone paying over $8k with the overall condition/ rust. Decent rust free ones with similar miles go for 11-15k it seems like 

Sorry guys but I'm gonna look for a decent 535i 😓

 

 

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