straight6pwr Posted July 22, 2019 Report Share Posted July 22, 2019 that thing is so clean! P_Roloff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P_Roloff Posted July 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2019 6 hours ago, straight6pwr said: that thing is so clean! Thanks! It’s very much a 20 footer in person haha, the paint has a lot of small imperfections and the photos hide that. I’ve been meaning to spend more time on paint correction and cleaning up the other things on this, but life has gotten really busy in the last month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted July 22, 2019 Report Share Posted July 22, 2019 2 hours ago, P_Roloff said: Thanks! It’s very much a 20 footer in person haha, the paint has a lot of small imperfections and the photos hide that. I’ve been meaning to spend more time on paint correction and cleaning up the other things on this, but life has gotten really busy in the last month. I’ll brag for you, this car is a solid 5 footer. Interior was 9.5/10 and 9/10 outside. Jdesign, P_Roloff and m42b32 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P_Roloff Posted September 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2019 Did an oil change at 71,5xx miles, that's about the only update. This was an awesome daily for this summer with commuting 400 miles per week for work, never had so much as a hiccup. Also, am I @straight6pwr yet? For all you paddling enthusiasts, I'm looking for some good locations to see or day trips in the greater Madison/Baraboo area if anyone has suggestions. B C, Jdesign, jc43089 and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straight6pwr Posted September 12, 2019 Report Share Posted September 12, 2019 oh hellz yah P_Roloff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P_Roloff Posted January 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2020 Not too much of an update, only a few new things. - Ended up replacing both front calipers in December, right front had an extremely sticky piston that ended up causing some pretty violent vibration after a few minutes at highway speed, the left side was better but still getting bad so both got replaced. No pictures unfortunately, but in the last photo i posted you can see just how much more brake dust there is on the front wheel than the rear. Luckily, no warping of the rotors occurred and there's still plenty of pad left, lucked out there. - Picked up a set of 17" style 5's from @need4speed1299, I'll post more pictures as I begin the tear-down. I'm currently planning on stripping everything, repainting the centers in the stock silver, and polishing the lips. I also plan to send off the bolts to be plated, anyone have experience with places for this (especially local places)? Del's Plating Works in TX seems to be one that's popped up on r3v a few times, I'll send them an email soon to see what I'm looking at on cost. Sounds like anywhere from $50 to $75 is a decent estimate. Here's some pics of the wheels. The first four seem solid, minimal if any curb rash, although they've all had a crappy respray over the factory finish that is peeling in spots. The fifth one has some very slight curb damage, should sand out. I think I'm going to remove the hardware from the fifth one and send it off with the stuff from the other four, not sure what I'll do with it beyond that. Might be worth it to look for an unbent barrel and refinish it as a spare as long as the center piece wasn't tweaked. It would make pretty cool furniture though too... need4speed1299 and m42b32 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted January 31, 2020 Report Share Posted January 31, 2020 Plate all the hardware from the spare wheel as well because you will break some. If they don’t snap coming off like my experience, 3 broke on install. Had to buy some off eBay which guys specifically sell small sets for this reason and now there's some ugly hardware mixed on the wheels because it doesn't pay to plate 3 bolts. Even then the plating didn't last long, we had it done in Milwaukee somewhere. I'd strongly recommend getting new hardware for not much more P_Roloff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P_Roloff Posted January 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2020 3 hours ago, YoungCR said: Plate all the hardware from the spare wheel as well because you will break some. If they don’t snap coming off like my experience, 3 broke on install. Had to buy some off eBay which guys specifically sell small sets for this reason and now there's some ugly hardware mixed on the wheels because it doesn't pay to plate 3 bolts. Even then the plating didn't last long, we had it done in Milwaukee somewhere. I'd strongly recommend getting new hardware for not much more You have any sources for hardware? I saw that many recommended Black Forest Industries, but they only carry M8 bolts and for $1.44 apiece, which would come out to $185 before shipping or tax. SRR Hardware has the correct M7 splined hardware for around $210 shipped. Did the plating flake off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted January 31, 2020 Report Share Posted January 31, 2020 I’ve refinished a couple sets of RS and a couple Style 5. I always tumbled the bolts, then polished them with a buffing wheel on a bench top grinder and then clear coat. Used a grocery bag to protect the bolts when I tightened them down and never had any issues. A lot cheaper than new hardware. I looked into plating a couple times and when I did the quotes came out to more than new hardware. On all the wheels I’ve done I’ve never broken a bolt. I went through a phase in college where I flipped wheels. HipMF 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P_Roloff Posted January 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2020 9 minutes ago, gilber33 said: I’ve refinished a couple sets of RS and a couple Style 5. I always tumbled the bolts, then polished them with a buffing wheel on a bench top grinder and then clear coat. Used a grocery bag to protect the bolts when I tightened them down and never had any issues. A lot cheaper than new hardware. I looked into plating a couple times and when I did the quotes came out to more than new hardware. On all the wheels I’ve done I’ve never broken a bolt. I went through a phase in college where I flipped wheels. Interesting, I'll give it a try on a few of the spare bolts as a test run. Did you use any sort of sealant on the lips when you finished them or did you clear-coat them? Any problems with yellowing of the clear on the bolts or lips? The style 5's look amazing on that car btw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasnt m3 Posted January 31, 2020 Report Share Posted January 31, 2020 If I were you, I'd spin the wheels just to make sure that they are true. Pretty soft wheels from my experience. I'd hate to see you spend a ton of effort on wheels that aren't round. That said, I'd never polish a set of those lips ever again. Jdesign and P_Roloff 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted January 31, 2020 Report Share Posted January 31, 2020 1 hour ago, P_Roloff said: Interesting, I'll give it a try on a few of the spare bolts as a test run. Did you use any sort of sealant on the lips when you finished them or did you clear-coat them? Any problems with yellowing of the clear on the bolts or lips? The style 5's look amazing on that car btw Thank you. No sealant on the lips. Just a quick hand polish every once in a while with aluminum polish. No issues with the bolts either. They’ll ultimately come out a little darker than the faces and lips, but for me it was oem hardware and the cost was a can of clear coat. P_Roloff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straight6pwr Posted January 31, 2020 Report Share Posted January 31, 2020 10 hours ago, wasnt m3 said: That said, I'd never polish a set of those lips ever again. +1,000. done my share of bmw wheel refinishing, i've thrown in the towel. they are a damn fine wheel, though. 12 hours ago, gilber33 said: I always tumbled the bolts, then polished them with a buffing wheel on a bench top grinder and then clear coat. +1 the cost for plating didnt seem worth it in the end. the bolts are titanium and don't corrode, so the plating is only aesthetic. . polish/clear them for a shiny look or paint/clear to your desired color. you can chuck each bolt in a drill and spin polish them as an alternative to a bench grinder. a good long soak in vinegar strips the zinc plating and locktite from the bolts/nuts, if you dont have access to a tumbler. i also did not clear the lips of the style 5s, but that turned out to be a pain in the ass. you have to re-polish them every now and again to keep the shine. if you have time to clean the wheel religiously, it may not be so bad. i ended up selling my style 5s because I was annoyed with the extra maintenance involved. P_Roloff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P_Roloff Posted January 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2020 49 minutes ago, straight6pwr said: +1,000. done my share of bmw wheel refinishing, i've thrown in the towel. they are a damn fine wheel, though. +1 the cost for plating didnt seem worth it in the end. the bolts are titanium and don't corrode, so the plating is only aesthetic. unfinished and stripped of their original finish, the bolts turn to a dark gray color. polish/clear them for a shiny look or paint/clear to your desired color. you can chuck each bolt in a drill and spin polish them as an alternative to a bench grinder. a good long soak in vinegar strips the zinc plating and locktite from the bolts/nuts, if you dont have access to a tumbler. i also did not clear the lips of the style 5s, but that turned out to be a pain in the ass. you have to re-polish them every now and again to keep the shine. if you have time to clean the wheel religiously, it may not be so bad. i ended up selling my style 5s because I was annoyed with the extra maintenance involved. Interesting, I was under the impression that the bolts on the rc 090’s are steel and that rust is a concern on them. I’ll definitely use the vinegar trick, sounds nice and easy. I think I’m okay with the extra maintenance, these will be purely summer wheels so salt and really bad road grime won’t be a concern. I can handle polishing them every few weeks, and I guess if I find out that I can’t, I can always sell them on and get something else. I also think I might experiment with some products for semi wheels to see if there’s anything that will extend the maintenance interval. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straight6pwr Posted January 31, 2020 Report Share Posted January 31, 2020 36 minutes ago, P_Roloff said: Interesting, I was under the impression that the bolts on the rc 090’s are steel and that rust is a concern on them. I’ll definitely use the vinegar trick, sounds nice and easy. I think I’m okay with the extra maintenance, these will be purely summer wheels so salt and really bad road grime won’t be a concern. I can handle polishing them every few weeks, and I guess if I find out that I can’t, I can always sell them on and get something else. I also think I might experiment with some products for semi wheels to see if there’s anything that will extend the maintenance interval. maybe it was the style 42 bolts. my bad! P_Roloff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted January 31, 2020 Report Share Posted January 31, 2020 24 minutes ago, P_Roloff said: Interesting, I was under the impression that the bolts on the rc 090’s are steel and that rust is a concern on them. I’ll definitely use the vinegar trick, sounds nice and easy. They are! I found out the hard way by not clear coating the ones on my last set. Sold them to Tom's brother who put them on his 5-series and they rusted. Felt like a total dickhead. P_Roloff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rekpoint Posted January 31, 2020 Report Share Posted January 31, 2020 Before removing the bolts make sure to heat them. The guy who bought my style 42s told me that almost every one snapped, even with heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P_Roloff Posted February 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2020 21 hours ago, wasnt m3 said: If I were you, I'd spin the wheels just to make sure that they are true. Pretty soft wheels from my experience. I'd hate to see you spend a ton of effort on wheels that aren't round. That said, I'd never polish a set of those lips ever again. Definitely will do this, they look straight but you never really can tell through visual inspection. 4 hours ago, Rekpoint said: Before removing the bolts make sure to heat them. The guy who bought my style 42s told me that almost every one snapped, even with heat. I'll probably start with PB Blaster or something similar first, I'd really rather not put heat into the wheels themselves if i can help it. Likely wouldn't measurably change anything, but I'd rather not play with the material properties of the wheel. Now that I think about it, I might cut a sample off of the barrel and run a few little tests to see if heating with a torch has any effect on hardness, I could probably get access to the machines at school if I wanted to. Might be interesting to see what happens, if that short amount of time is enough to change anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed1299 Posted February 1, 2020 Report Share Posted February 1, 2020 I never snapped any either. No heat or pb blaster. I zipped them off with a half inch impact and ground down an air chisel bit to this shape. _/\_ P_Roloff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rekpoint Posted February 1, 2020 Report Share Posted February 1, 2020 15 hours ago, P_Roloff said: Definitely will do this, they look straight but you never really can tell through visual inspection. I'll probably start with PB Blaster or something similar first, I'd really rather not put heat into the wheels themselves if i can help it. Likely wouldn't measurably change anything, but I'd rather not play with the material properties of the wheel. Now that I think about it, I might cut a sample off of the barrel and run a few little tests to see if heating with a torch has any effect on hardness, I could probably get access to the machines at school if I wanted to. Might be interesting to see what happens, if that short amount of time is enough to change anything. The style 42s I had were also heavily oxidized and corroded. That might play a difference. But its better to be safe than sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdesign Posted February 18, 2020 Report Share Posted February 18, 2020 I never broke any either. I used a solid chunk of ABS and an air chisel to remove them. I cut the ABS into a curve and it allowed me to zap out about 3 at a time. P_Roloff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P_Roloff Posted March 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2020 Update for personal reference: Oil change, 76,806 miles with Castrol Edge 5w-40 full synthetic. Note to self to buy Bosch or Mann filter from FCP euro next time instead being stuck with the Oreilly’s Wix filter. Replaced reverse light switch while it was in the air, and replaced hood & trunk shocks within the last week. Broken headlight adjusters will be replaced soon and headlights will finally be aimed correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted March 8, 2020 Report Share Posted March 8, 2020 Does this M50 have VANOS? I may be making stuff up but for whatever reason I thought the E34 never got the M50TU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P_Roloff Posted March 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2020 18 minutes ago, B C said: Does this M50 have VANOS? I may be making stuff up but for whatever reason I thought the E34 never got the M50TU It does indeed, Vanos be kickin in all the time yo I believe that 1993 was the changeover year from NV to Vanos. I should really replace the seals at some point this summer now that you mention this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted March 8, 2020 Report Share Posted March 8, 2020 I have a couple of the vanos tools that I dont need anymore in case you or anyone needs them, just not the cam timing blocks. It’s a fun little project Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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