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New Ride: e46 330i ZHP


Boris3

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  • 3 months later...

So e30 race car prep for the season start up is pretty much done with things back together, and the weather is kind of getting warmer so the ZHP will start to get more use. This brings me back to the e46  suspension refresh questions. I can see a lot of play in the FCABs which explains the clunks over bumps and maybe part of the wallowing/body roll on freeway ramps. I'll be replacing CABS, control arms etc. As mentioned the struts/shocks look to be the originals which at 155k are long past done and part of the issue. 

Back to recommendations for an e46. Car will be unlikely to see track use so comfortable daily and trip cruiser but also not a body rolling pig is key. Folks with e46s, what have you tried in suspension setups and what do you like / not like?  

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I think the lollipop bushing setup is similar to e30 and e36.  For those I always use the stock Lemforder e36 M3 bushing which is still rubber but has more solid area than the non M bushing and very cheap.  Loose control arm bushings allow toe change when braking and looseness in general.

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  • 2 months later...

New suspension installed on the car, Koni yellows with the stock sport springs, new Lemforder control arms, fcabs, sway bar end links, strut tower reinforcement plates, heavy duty rear shock mounts, rear shock tower reinforcement plates. Much better ride now. Everything I removed was original with 155k and bushings, shocks and struts we're all trashed.

Conti extreme sports need to replaced since they're worn and howl like 4x4 mudders.

Did a back and forth run from MKE to Hudson, Wi this weekend. 600 miles rt. Cruise in 6th gear at 70-75, roughly 34 mpg. I could get used to this.

Next up: tie rods, new tires, and passenger front window regulator is making bad crunching noises. Need new lenses for the AL headlights. PS line(s) has a weap and also the OFH.

 

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2 hours ago, Boris3 said:

New suspension installed on the car, Koni yellows with the stock sport springs, new Lemforder control arms, fcabs, sway bar end links, strut tower reinforcement plates, heavy duty rear shock mounts, rear shock tower reinforcement plates. Much better ride now. Everything I removed was original with 155k and bushings, shocks and struts we're all trashed.

Conti extreme sports need to replaced since they're worn and howl like 4x4 mudders.

Did a back and forth run from MKE to Hudson, Wi this weekend. 600 miles rt. Cruise in 6th gear at 70-75, roughly 34 mpg. I could get used to this.

Next up: tie rods, new tires, and passenger front window regulator is making bad crunching noises. Need new lenses for the AL headlights. PS line(s) has a weap and also the OFH.

 

You went through my neckofthewoods!

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So I've got a side mirrors and reverse question. My passenger side mirror tilts down to the point of being useless when I shift into reverse. Doesn't matter where I have the mirror selector switch set, over to driver side or passenger side. Take the car out of reverse and shift into 1st and the passenger mirror makes noise and might slightly adjust about a 1/4" up but still pointed down.  I have to use the switch controls to get it back to the regular position I want for driving. A bit annoying so I'd like to figure this out or ideally just like to turn the "lower in reverse" option off. But as I said it happens in every position of the mirror adjustor switch so there is no "off" I've found. 

I'm probably missing something simple here. Insights welcomed!    

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  • 2 months later...

the internet suggests replacing the mirror's motor and/or ribbon cable solves many of the incorrect positioning issues - shorting in the system or motor makes the behavior erratic. (versus it being a module thing). it also says you could try unplugging the ribbon cable to the mirrors behind the door card to permanently disable them.

standard e46 mirrors may be the same motor as the ZHP, or at least that's how it looks on real OEM, but i couldnt find 'ZHP'

Dipping mirrors are definitely on the list of pointless technology because the problem it solves isnt really a problem. 

1. Electric scissors

2. Dipping car side mirrors

3. Powered reclining furniture

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10 minutes ago, straight6pwr said:

Dipping mirrors are definitely on the list of pointless technology because the problem it solves isnt really a problem. 

The mirror on my e91 dips when in reverse and I've found it can be helpful to keep your wheel off the curb when parallel parking. But I guess any other time it's pointless and even annoying. It would be nice to have the feature on a button or something. I'd be surprised if some coding couldn't turn it off. 

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Supposedly the off button is the position of the mirror select switch but it doesn't make a difference in my case. Thanks for the mirror motor / cable info.

I need to look back at the wiring diagrams. The car was missing one of the fuses for the Harmon Kardon button and DSC disable button. Wonder if the mirror dip runs off the same circuit and the PO pulled it to "solve" the problem.

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  • 1 month later...

So I went with Koni sports and stock ZHP springs, Lemforder front control arms and CABs, sway bar end links, added the front shock tower plates, and rear tower reinforcements. The suspension looked to be original at 156k. Shocks were all shot and FCABs were absolutely trashed.

Tie rods are next up when I get some time... along with replacing a leaking OFH gasket, a leaking PS hose, and the crunching passenger front window regulator.

I'm happy with the ride height and the ride with one exception. Still wallows/body rolls on entrance/exit ramps more than I'd like which is not a surprise given the stock ZHP springs. Is there a streetable e46 spring step up? I have the H&R sports and Bilsteins on the 318is and it's a blast on curves but you jarringly feel EVERY expansion joint/road imperfection which I don't want for the 330i. 

I know that sways typically come after springs to fine tune, but to address body roll I've have been thinking of doing a slight step up for now from stock bars (23.5/18.5mm) with say an e46 m3 front sway and e46 vert rear bar (26.5/20). Anyone gone this route, or more does anyone have these bits lying around?   

Car will not be tracked so don't need a big step up in spring or bars.  I guess I could just drive slower but well you know...

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  • 3 weeks later...

Oil leaks corollary: no matter how much you clean up remnants from the old leak and removing the ofh old oil will be caught up in the metal undertray and will drip on floor the day after car is off jack stands making you think new gasket is leaking...when it isn't.

On another note I'm replacing tie rods today. Does anyone actually source a 34mm crows foot to torque the inners, or do you just plumbers / big creasant wrench them tight? 

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4 hours ago, Boris3 said:

Oil leaks corollary: no matter how much you clean up remnants from the old leak and removing the ofh old oil will be caught up in the metal undertray and will drip on floor the day after car is off jack stands making you think new gasket is leaking...when it isn't.

On another note I'm replacing tie rods today. Does anyone actually source a 34mm crows foot to torque the inners, or do you just plumbers / big creasant wrench them tight? 

I use a Image result for crescent roll, but you can get a 34mm from a bike shop locally.

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