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‘91 E30


KaiserRolls

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  • 1 month later...

Also needed to fix the lift point. The top most bolt hole for the lift bracket was all blown apart. I wanted to just re tap the remaining area, but I Was not able to get a tap through whatever material that threaded portion was. Could barely drill it out to the right size. 

Decided to buy a stud and just jb weld the cock sucker in because it only needs to work one more time anyways. Had to re tap that lower lifting bracket bolt hole as well because the threads were junk. 

Also got a rethreaded brown temp sensor so the dash temp gauge will work. Had to chase those threads as well. I’m getting very familiar with my tap set lately. 

Correct TOB and new reverse switch hopefully get here Saturday, so I can get the trans tossed on. 

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3 minutes ago, straight6pwr said:

good info on the headers and TOB

forget the lift point, just throw the chains around the spider hose, they are super strong and never break.

I’ll get a comparison shot of the regular zf tob vs the 323TOB. Should be a difference of 4or5mm. Which should make up for the difference of dualmass/non dualmass flywheel. I want the clutch to engage not directly off the floor  

 

lol at spider hose. Should just lift it from the ICV hoses. Those things never break either 👀

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On 8/23/2019 at 10:35 AM, KaiserRolls said:

I’ll get a comparison shot of the regular zf tob vs the 323TOB. Should be a difference of 4or5mm. Which should make up for the difference of dualmass/non dualmass flywheel. I want the clutch to engage not directly off the floor  

 

lol at spider hose. Should just lift it from the ICV hoses. Those things never break either 👀

As long as you have URO brand you should be fine.

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