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‘91 E30


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  • 4 months later...
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1 hour ago, B C said:




basically all I ended up doing was moving the suspension from the red car to the black car. 

Also currently in progress of moving the zf from the red car to the black car  

plan is to sell the red car once it’s back together and sell the supercharger separately

the two car thing would be neat and I’ve kicked around turning the red one into a winter autox car but I hardly drive anything anymore so might as well sell it to someone who can get some use out of it 

Photo evidence of trans removal attached 


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1 hour ago, straight6pwr said:

i have extension jealousy

did that torque wrench still have enough gusto with that setup?

Plenty of gusto, was more worried about it blowing apart the universal wobbly joint part of the connection but it went well. 

Thats my favorite tool. M18 fuel high torques. So much nut busting 

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1 hour ago, straight6pwr said:

possible to cut access openings into the trans tunnel for removing the e30 24v transmissions top bolts? I know one day when I have to do the clutch I'd like to avoid engine removal and/or excessive cursing. stripping the interior down would be a cake walk compared to pulling the engine.

They do similar things for race cars. Have little access panels cut in the body to access things easier. It definitely can be done.

You could probably cut one in the trans tunnel under the HVAC control panel. Getting a larger piece or replacement material to cover the opening, have some flat head bolts that protrude into the trans tunnel so the carpet sits flat, and put a little bit of gasket between the two surfaces to seal it.

Or maybe it would need to be closer to the firewall? Is it almost impossible to access them with the ZF? I am praying that I don't have to do this just to get my new slave cylinder in...

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14 minutes ago, KaiserRolls said:

Slave cylinder on the ZF is easy, plenty of room for socket/extension/ratchet 

I am able to get the nuts off of it. But it seems like it's impossible to actually get it out or in without it pinching on the trans or the trans tunnel.

Only way I was able to get my broken one out was ripping the dowel out of it and just mashing it out. Maybe I'm taking the wrong approach, but I would be very interested to hear your technique as this is one of my last things to do.

My though was disconnecting the trans brace and loosening the motor mounts in hopes of being able to nudge it over just enough to get it in. 

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20 minutes ago, B C said:

my vote is to just disconnect the top strut mounts and steering shaft, then lower the subframe 2 inches 

and remove the skid plate

and disconnect heater hoses and drain coolant and remove the entire intake.

and the sway bar

and probably other things

i feel like a lot of stuff under there doesnt have 2 inches of compliance.

at that point you might as well pull the motor.

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