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gilber33

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Other than a little bit of trimming, the trunk is all done. In hindsight I wish I would have used a single panel for the entire floor and then glued carpet to that, but, I'll save that for a later time. 

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And the transmission is all cleaned up. Removed the tail and input flanges to replace the seals. Surprisingly the tailshaft flange nut came right off and the flange slid off. I didn't need to use a puller at all. 

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When you reinstall the output flange make sure to follow the torque procedure, it's a tighten, loosen, then tighten thing.  It seats the bearing but then the final torque is less.  That is normal for it to slide right out, it is just a straight spline.

 

If you over tighten the nut it will eventually wreck the bearing.  I know from experience, it will happen at the moment your wife is driving the car with her mom to get their hair done before your sister in laws wedding.

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1 hour ago, jc43089 said:

When you reinstall the output flange make sure to follow the torque procedure, it's a tighten, loosen, then tighten thing.  It seats the bearing but then the final torque is less.  That is normal for it to slide right out, it is just a straight spline.

Is this procedure laid out in the Bentley manual? I'll have to double check it, it didn't see this procedure called out in any of the write-ups I went through when I did it on my other transmission.

And the output flange did not slide right off on my other transmission, it took a gear puller and some muscle. Most experiences I read on this people had some trouble getting them off. Maybe it's a good sign.

 

Edit. Pasting this here for my future reference:

Quote

The output flange is sealed with a high strength stud locker on both the
splines and threads.
The manual recommends: Locktite 270 or Hylogrip or Curil K-2
Locktite 270 has been replaced by 2701 (or #27040)
BMW recommends Loctite 242 for newer transmissions, but that may not be
correct for the Getrag 260.

Apply the sealant to the splines on the flange only, not the shaft
splines. Slide the flange on, and apply sealant to the bearing surface
of the collar nut. Tighten in two rounds: tighten to 125 ftlb, loosen
1/4 to 1/2 a turn, then tighten to 90 ftlb. This assures that the
flange is fully seated on the output shaft, not on trapped sealant.

 

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3 minutes ago, gilber33 said:

Is this procedure laid out in the Bentley manual? I'll have to double check it, it didn't see this procedure called out in any of the write-ups I went through when I did it on my other transmission.

And the output flange did not slide right off on my other transmission, it took a gear puller and some muscle. Most experiences I read on this people had some trouble getting them off. Maybe it's a good sign.

 

Edit. Pasting this here for my future reference:

 

That is exactly the procedure I was thinking of.  I supposed the difficulty removing the flange depends on how much sealant was applied previously.

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So I got the transmission back together and then noticed the output flanges are different between the new transmission and the one that was in the car. I'm assuming I have to swap it to the new transmission? 

The shorter one is the new transmission and the taller one was in the car. 

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Edit: I figured that's what I was going to need to do and pulled both flanges off. 

But I also got a lightly used gates timing belt and all new timing parts on tonight. 

4E644CAB-D847-42F0-A235-75066AF65151.jpeg

 

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9 hours ago, straight6pwr said:

despite their style difference, they look awful close dimensionally. check the distance between the mounting face and the trans and the PCD 

I'll measure them just to know one way or the other, but I already pulled them both off and will put the one that came with the car on the new transmission. 

1 minute ago, GunMetalGrey said:

That carpet cleaned up surprisingly well!
What did you use to accomplish that?

I uhhhhhhhh just bought some new carpet and made my own trunk panel. Haha. If you remember the spare tire panel didn't line up with the car's. 

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On 2/3/2019 at 10:45 PM, gilber33 said:

Some yellow fogs from Gina. 

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And the difference in the flanges. Tall one came on my car. 

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Whats up with the plastic tabs on that fog light?

If the splines and bolt pattern on the flanges are the same, it shouldn't matter which one you use. The driveshaft should have enough adjustment in and out to allow you to use either one. I would consider using the one that best fits the motor at its furthest back position on the motor mounts. (likely the shorter one).

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2 hours ago, Jdesign said:

Whats up with the plastic tabs on that fog light?

If the splines and bolt pattern on the flanges are the same, it shouldn't matter which one you use. The driveshaft should have enough adjustment in and out to allow you to use either one. I would consider using the one that best fits the motor at its furthest back position on the motor mounts. (likely the shorter one).

i have the chinesium fogs too - the quality and moldings are awful.

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5 hours ago, Jdesign said:

Whats up with the plastic tabs on that fog light?

If the splines and bolt pattern on the flanges are the same, it shouldn't matter which one you use. The driveshaft should have enough adjustment in and out to allow you to use either one. I would consider using the one that best fits the motor at its furthest back position on the motor mounts. (likely the shorter one).

The taller one came with the car. I figured I’d just use that one. 

2 hours ago, straight6pwr said:

i have the chinesium fogs too - the quality and moldings are awful.

My car didn’t come with any fogs. They’re more or less just to fill the holes. 

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I haven't really been around for a while. So this is a spare engine that you are cleaning up. Did you change the head gasket or do any internal refreshing? It would look just great sitting on the stand in the garage even if you never intended to use it! Engine dress-up is my favorite part of wrenching. You've done well@

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2 hours ago, snap said:

I haven't really been around for a while. So this is a spare engine that you are cleaning up. Did you change the head gasket or do any internal refreshing? It would look just great sitting on the stand in the garage even if you never intended to use it! Engine dress-up is my favorite part of wrenching. You've done well@

This is the engine I did some work to when I first got the car, but when I parked it for the winter I noticed the RMS was weeping a bit. So I pulled the engine out to replace that. I do have a spare engine that I plan on cleaning up and would like to do some internal refreshing on that one.

I was going to swap most of the stuff from this one over to the new engine rather than powder coating a second set of everything, but I agree with you that this engine would look really nice just sitting on a stand in the garage ultimately. haha

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1 hour ago, YoungCR said:

Looking good! The spare motor is the one that came with your car correct?

Thank you! The spare motor is one I just picked up actually. The one with the PCing came with the car. I had it out last year and did a bunch of refreshing on it, but noticed the RMS leaking when I parked it for the winter. So, back out, redid a bunch of the powder coating from silver to wrinkle black, light weight flywheel, and a some other stuff. 

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Got a little more of the engine back together. 

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Also, working on putting in the M3/318is engine harness covers. The harness in the car was so stiff from 30 years of being in the same position so I had to pull out the harness and trim off the rubber coating. Will mock it up and then wrap it in the fabric harness tape. 

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  • gilber33 changed the title to Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum

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