SteelBlue Posted October 8, 2018 Report Share Posted October 8, 2018 On 10/6/2018 at 11:50 PM, gilber33 said: Back on the ground! Hopefully for a while this time. One of the tie rod securing nuts was frozen, so it got new tie rods. Oil is drained out and new stuff goes in tomorrow. Fixed the hood ground strap. Getting the lights finished. Pretty excited. Now my standard question. How would I go about aligning this bumper? I LOVE how this car looks. What are the wheels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted October 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2018 15 minutes ago, SteelBlue said: I LOVE how this car looks. What are the wheels? They're RS reps made by ESM. They make a lot of bbs reps and they're pretty cheap/affordable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted October 8, 2018 Report Share Posted October 8, 2018 The oil pressure light should come on when you turn the key to run before starting the engine. If the switch is failed open or the bulb is burned out it will never come on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted October 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2018 18 minutes ago, jc43089 said: The oil pressure light should come on when you turn the key to run before starting the engine. If the switch is failed open or the bulb is burned out it will never come on. I'll double check that it comes on. Otherwise any other ideas about the noise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted October 8, 2018 Report Share Posted October 8, 2018 Are you sure it isn't an exhaust leak? It might be sealing up after it gets warm? I have heard an exhaust leak sound by the manifold sound like that. Boris3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted October 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2018 Definitely louder on the exhaust side. Easy thing to check as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted October 8, 2018 Report Share Posted October 8, 2018 After running it a while you might see a sooty looking spot where the leak is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted October 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2018 12 minutes ago, jc43089 said: After running it a while you might see a sooty looking spot where the leak is. All the exhaust manifold bolts had maybe half a turn on them to be tight and a couple had more. The down pipes also had some 1/4 to half turns. The sound was significantly less and went away quicker. Now, if it was an exhaust leak or the new oil getting everywhere, idk. But it was much improved. Finally had it out of the garage and washed down some of the dirty engine bay. And as usual, question time. I put in an e36 rack, new lines, and rebuilt the PS pump, but when I'm parked, it feels like I have zero power steering. As soon as I start moving it feels normal. Is this a normal e30 behavior or is there something wrong? Boris3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris3 Posted October 8, 2018 Report Share Posted October 8, 2018 Glad to see it out. Sorry , no help on PS. I've removed it on both of mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted October 9, 2018 Report Share Posted October 9, 2018 I thought that sounded like exhaust leakage, strange how it can sound like a knock or tick. For the power steering, how old is the pump? I need to rebuild mine because it is similar, just weak and once you are moving it doesn't need as much help. Mine makes a whining noise. I am going to get the rebuild kit and take it apart in class the week I teach my fluid power class about hydraulic pumps. Mine comes and goes too, sometimes it works pretty well and sometimes not hardly any assist. I wonder if the relief valve is sticking open sometimes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted October 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2018 1 hour ago, jc43089 said: I thought that sounded like exhaust leakage, strange how it can sound like a knock or tick. For the power steering, how old is the pump? I need to rebuild mine because it is similar, just weak and once you are moving it doesn't need as much help. Mine makes a whining noise. I am going to get the rebuild kit and take it apart in class the week I teach my fluid power class about hydraulic pumps. Mine comes and goes too, sometimes it works pretty well and sometimes not hardly any assist. I wonder if the relief valve is sticking open sometimes. I actually rebuilt it while it was. Talking to others, it sounds like the system just needs to be bled. I had it completely apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted October 9, 2018 Report Share Posted October 9, 2018 14 minutes ago, gilber33 said: I actually rebuilt it while it was. Talking to others, it sounds like the system just needs to be bled. I had it completely apart. Ahh, yea several lock to lock turns should work the air out of the system. The reservoir might need to be topped off a couple times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted October 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2018 13 hours ago, jc43089 said: Ahh, yea several lock to lock turns should work the air out of the system. The reservoir might need to be topped off a couple times. Well, after lots of lock to lock turns it seems like nothing really happened. Fluid level didn't go down. I confirmed there was fluid going to the pump and after the pump. There were noticeable are bubbles coming out of the reservoir. One thing that seemed weird is the fluid didn't get warm. I understand there wasn't any force to turning the wheels, but I would assume it'd get a little warm going through the pump. I guess I'll drive it and see if anything happens. No leaks at the pump or anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted October 10, 2018 Report Share Posted October 10, 2018 If there is a leak on the suction side of the pump it will suck in air. That would be the large hose to the bottom of the reservoir from the pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted October 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2018 5 minutes ago, jc43089 said: If there is a leak on the suction side of the pump it will suck in air. That would be the large hose to the bottom of the reservoir from the pump. I cranked down the banjo bolt at the pump and the hose on the bottom of the reservoir is leak free. And the hose is brand new. If it doesn't get better after driving it, I think I'll replace the pump next. Idk what else it could be the rack is leak free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted October 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2018 OK, I think it's the pump. For having a bunch of air in the system, the pump was not whining at all and the fluid was not foamy whatsoever. That makes me think the pump isn't working like it should be. Probably something I did because I took it apart to rebuild it, so I must have messed it up somehow. Jdesign 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted October 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2018 Power steering fixed! Swapped in an ZF pump off of Ebay and that took care of it. Not sure how I messed up rebuilding the Vickers pump, but oh well. Also drained some of the coolant and shortened the thermostat to water pump hose. It was a little long at the thermostat and the radiator fan was starting to shave some of the hose. Next up, possibly adjust the valves to see if that effects the rattle on cold starts. Question time: where do you guys take your lowered cars for alignments in southeastern WI? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted October 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2018 Driven it to work twice now and so far so good! The rattle on cold starts seems to be gone. I'm not sure what happened, but when I started it this morning, it just sounded like a normal car. Small rattle from the clutch/transmission, but from what I've read, it sounds like this getrag has a small rattle. It goes away when the clutch is pushed in and in gear. Also, I haven't had a manual car in a while, so it may also just be the single mass flywheel. On the downside, it appears the radio took a shit. When I reconnected the battery, I just get an orange screen. I don't even have the opportunity to enter the code. I've let it sit on for 1+ hours. I disconnected the power from the back of the radio. Nothing. Will get a new radio, kind of bummed that the factory one won't be in there and I'm not paying the money that it looks like the used radios go for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straight6pwr Posted October 16, 2018 Report Share Posted October 16, 2018 30 minutes ago, gilber33 said: Small rattle from the clutch/transmission, but from what I've read, it sounds like this getrag has a small rattle. It goes away when the clutch is pushed in and in gear. Also, I haven't had a manual car in a while, so it may also just be the single mass flywheel. The rattle is worn transmission input shaft bearings. (if it only happens in neutral with the clutch engaged and disappears when the clutch is disengaged). A lightweight/single mass flywheel will make the noise worse. Don't worry about it - the Getrag will chug along 300,000+ miles that way. You could fix it, but that involves rebuilding the trans or finding one that doesnt already rattle. A previous m20 e30 that I owned started the Getrag rattle with about 170k miles on it. I sold the car with 250k miles on it and it was still fine/hadnt gotten noticeably worse. gilber33 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted October 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2018 2 hours ago, straight6pwr said: The rattle is worn transmission input shaft bearings. (if it only happens in neutral with the clutch engaged and disappears when the clutch is disengaged). A lightweight/single mass flywheel will make the noise worse. Don't worry about it - the Getrag will chug along 300,000+ miles that way. You could fix it, but that involves rebuilding the trans or finding one that doesnt already rattle. A previous m20 e30 that I owned started the Getrag rattle with about 170k miles on it. I sold the car with 250k miles on it and it was still fine/hadnt gotten noticeably worse. I will be leaving it for now. If somehow it affects drivability, then I'll look at it, but the car shifts great and there are no signs that there's something terribly wrong. But, one thing has crept up that I've noticed. Everyone once in a while when I'm driving, it is usually just cruising along, the car seems to cut out for half a second and jolts. It feels almost as if the throttle body snapped shut and then opened back up. Then the car keeps going as if nothing happened. The cluster doesn't change, the needles don't zero out, no lights come on. I've read that the main relay and ECU can eventually start going bad and cause little blips like this. I would assume if the main relay was bad, there would be a loss of electrical power, not just "mechanical" power. Maybe the TPS is glitching and on its way out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted October 16, 2018 Report Share Posted October 16, 2018 The tach doesn't drop momentarily when it does that? I had a failing crank position sensor causing a momentary blip like that, but it drives the tach too so it made it easy to figure out. All other gauges acted normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted October 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2018 6 minutes ago, jc43089 said: The tach doesn't drop momentarily when it does that? I had a failing crank position sensor causing a momentary blip like that, but it drives the tach too so it made it easy to figure out. All other gauges acted normal. The tach wasn't affected at all. I just got it aligned and on my drive back it happened a couple times and I noticed the tach didn't move, but the MPG gauge spiked to getting really good mileage. That makes me think it was running lean for a split second. So maybe it is the TPS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patsbimmer1 Posted October 23, 2018 Report Share Posted October 23, 2018 I'm late to the party here but that interior is gorgeous! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted October 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2018 On 10/23/2018 at 2:03 PM, patsbimmer1 said: I'm late to the party here but that interior is gorgeous! Thank you! Still have a small hiccup when driving every once in a while. Next I'm going to try the ignition coil and then fuel pump. Went for a drive during lunch and found this little road to grab a couple pics. m42b32, GunMetalGrey and Jdesign 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted October 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2018 Went for a drive with Tom tonight and praise sweet baby jesus did I get lucky. Hit a deer. And the worse of the damage was only this. A trim clip broke on the side trim and a small dent on the rear wheel arch which should easily pop out. P_Roloff, m42b32 and Jdesign 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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